Thanks Blackie, that Fan blade will be great.
Iam going away again to work soon, I will send you a PM to organise pick up.
Yeah, not sure about deck the block, still inspecting the block haven't found any reason yet to do any machining.
Ignorance is bliss.
The J Motor is low miles as you saw.
When I was a kid we used to change Cams in the car and send it with increased Oil leaks of course.
Red motors are so much easier.
Memories of using rope to a tree brach to lift front of the engine up to slip the Lumpsticks out and in.
I remember red motor lifters were 83 cents each.
Trying to keep costs down.
If I want go faster I will juster drive the Landcruiser.
Cheers Ed.
Are you Bored? Bang for Buck Engine recipe required.
Are you Bored? Bang for Buck Engine recipe required.
Very nice ed. Will be interesting what the deck height turns out.
Hopefully parallel to the crank tunnel at the least.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
Hopefully parallel to the crank tunnel at the least.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Are you Bored? Bang for Buck Engine recipe required.
Thanks Errol62,
I had compiled a long reply about 10 days ago only for it to be lost in Hyperspace.
Great fun when it happens,
Anyway, yes, I am hoping the Crank is Parallel to the Deck.
I am also assuming the J block, being from the EJ has better machining Tolerances than earlier Grey Motors.
Being a so called "Budget Build" I am not concerned about slightly varying Compression ratios throughout the cylinders.
The Siamesed Ports do not help the cause.
I am hoping to not take the Block to the Machine Shop.
While blue printing and Balancing Engines is great it is not in the budget.
In a previous life we raced life we raced Speedway Side cars, the Regulations had an Engine Capacity of 1050CC.
We used 1100CC Engines and Sleeved one Cylinder of the 4 cylinders back 1mm to be Compliant.
These things Still reved to 11000rpm no problem.
This modification actually improved traction in the dirt slightly different capacity and power of 1 Cylinder with a smaller Capacity.
We found the Honda Super bolder Engine acted more like a tractor than the Z1100 kwaka Engine, so we transitioned to the Honda Engine.
Unfortunately, these days machining costs inhibit enthusiasm.
Anyway, digressing again.
The Plan is to Carefully disassemble bottom end, clean inspect with the view to replace minimal components.
So, just Hone, replace Rings, linish by hand Crank replace bearings, maybe replace Pistons if there is signs of wear at the current bore.
Pistons generally wear faster than Cylinder walls.
Rebuild Oil Pump, maybe port the pump but I heard varying the Pressure relief valve spring Tension can increase Pressure. I used to do that to my Junk yard Cleveland Engines in the 80`s
Only 2 bores have a very small Lip, Cylinders 2 and 3, they don't even need a ridge removal tool on them.
Time will Tell.
Ed.
I had compiled a long reply about 10 days ago only for it to be lost in Hyperspace.
Great fun when it happens,
Anyway, yes, I am hoping the Crank is Parallel to the Deck.
I am also assuming the J block, being from the EJ has better machining Tolerances than earlier Grey Motors.
Being a so called "Budget Build" I am not concerned about slightly varying Compression ratios throughout the cylinders.
The Siamesed Ports do not help the cause.
I am hoping to not take the Block to the Machine Shop.
While blue printing and Balancing Engines is great it is not in the budget.
In a previous life we raced life we raced Speedway Side cars, the Regulations had an Engine Capacity of 1050CC.
We used 1100CC Engines and Sleeved one Cylinder of the 4 cylinders back 1mm to be Compliant.
These things Still reved to 11000rpm no problem.
This modification actually improved traction in the dirt slightly different capacity and power of 1 Cylinder with a smaller Capacity.
We found the Honda Super bolder Engine acted more like a tractor than the Z1100 kwaka Engine, so we transitioned to the Honda Engine.
Unfortunately, these days machining costs inhibit enthusiasm.
Anyway, digressing again.
The Plan is to Carefully disassemble bottom end, clean inspect with the view to replace minimal components.
So, just Hone, replace Rings, linish by hand Crank replace bearings, maybe replace Pistons if there is signs of wear at the current bore.
Pistons generally wear faster than Cylinder walls.
Rebuild Oil Pump, maybe port the pump but I heard varying the Pressure relief valve spring Tension can increase Pressure. I used to do that to my Junk yard Cleveland Engines in the 80`s
Only 2 bores have a very small Lip, Cylinders 2 and 3, they don't even need a ridge removal tool on them.
Time will Tell.
Ed.
Re: Are you Bored? Bang for Buck Engine recipe required.
Ed,
I just noticed a reference to modifying an FJ front engine mount plate to suit a J-block. Here's what you need to do:
1: The oil drain holes in the EJ front main bearing cap are lower than in an FJ. You'll need to rework the FJ front engine mount plate to suit. If you have the EJ front engine mount plate, put it back-to-back with the FJ plate, clamp well and file the FJ front plate so the crankshaft gear hole is the same outline as that in the EJ front plate.
2: In Humpies, the lower timing cover screws do not all thread into the front main bearing cap. Compare the J-block front main bearing cap and front engine mount plate with the FJ front engine mount plate. You'll see that a couple of the timing cover bolt holes on the Humpy front engine mount plate are threaded 1/4" UNC, while on the J-block's front engine mount plate the holes are plain and the front main bearing cap's threaded 5/16" UNC. Drill those holes in the FJ front engine mount plate out to 11/32". Use all EJ bolts for the timing cover.
3: J motors have an extra through bolt on the front main bearing cap, on the right side, close to where the timing gears mesh. Determine its location and drill an 11/32" hole in the FJ front engine mount plate to suit.
4: Use the EJ timing cover. Saves having to drill holes oversize in an FJ cover (outlined in (2) above).
5: Use the FJ front mounting plate gasket, modified to suit the J-block's drain holes and the extra bolt.
6: Go to a supplier of fasteners and get a few 5/16" UNC x 5/8" long countersunk hex socket-head (aka Allen) screws for the front engine mount plate. Similarly, take your 1/4" UNF camshaft thrust plate mounting screws and get socket-head cap screw or button-head equivalents (beware screw head height). It's way easier to use a hex key socket than the exact Sidchrome 7/16" AF 1/4"-drive socket when installing the camshaft.
6: J-motors have a big hex standoff to mount the generator. In Humpy blocks it's a 5/16" UNF threaded hole. I don't quite know what to do here. It all depends on whether you have a 6-V generator or a 12-V alternator.
Best of luck.
Rob
I just noticed a reference to modifying an FJ front engine mount plate to suit a J-block. Here's what you need to do:
1: The oil drain holes in the EJ front main bearing cap are lower than in an FJ. You'll need to rework the FJ front engine mount plate to suit. If you have the EJ front engine mount plate, put it back-to-back with the FJ plate, clamp well and file the FJ front plate so the crankshaft gear hole is the same outline as that in the EJ front plate.
2: In Humpies, the lower timing cover screws do not all thread into the front main bearing cap. Compare the J-block front main bearing cap and front engine mount plate with the FJ front engine mount plate. You'll see that a couple of the timing cover bolt holes on the Humpy front engine mount plate are threaded 1/4" UNC, while on the J-block's front engine mount plate the holes are plain and the front main bearing cap's threaded 5/16" UNC. Drill those holes in the FJ front engine mount plate out to 11/32". Use all EJ bolts for the timing cover.
3: J motors have an extra through bolt on the front main bearing cap, on the right side, close to where the timing gears mesh. Determine its location and drill an 11/32" hole in the FJ front engine mount plate to suit.
4: Use the EJ timing cover. Saves having to drill holes oversize in an FJ cover (outlined in (2) above).
5: Use the FJ front mounting plate gasket, modified to suit the J-block's drain holes and the extra bolt.
6: Go to a supplier of fasteners and get a few 5/16" UNC x 5/8" long countersunk hex socket-head (aka Allen) screws for the front engine mount plate. Similarly, take your 1/4" UNF camshaft thrust plate mounting screws and get socket-head cap screw or button-head equivalents (beware screw head height). It's way easier to use a hex key socket than the exact Sidchrome 7/16" AF 1/4"-drive socket when installing the camshaft.
6: J-motors have a big hex standoff to mount the generator. In Humpy blocks it's a 5/16" UNF threaded hole. I don't quite know what to do here. It all depends on whether you have a 6-V generator or a 12-V alternator.
Best of luck.
Rob