Are you Bored? Bang for Buck Engine recipe required.

[ed.harris]

Thanks Blackie, that Fan blade will be great.
Iam going away again to work soon, I will send you a PM to organise pick up.

Yeah, not sure about deck the block, still inspecting the block haven't found any reason yet to do any machining.
Ignorance is bliss.
The J Motor is low miles as you saw.
When I was a kid we used to change Cams in the car and send it with increased Oil leaks of course.
Red motors are so much easier.
Memories of using rope to a tree brach to lift front of the engine up to slip the Lumpsticks out and in.
I remember red motor lifters were 83 cents each.

Trying to keep costs down.
If I want go faster I will juster drive the Landcruiser.

Cheers Ed.

[Errol62]

Very nice ed. Will be interesting what the deck height turns out.

Hopefully parallel to the crank tunnel at the least.

FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[ed.harris]

Thanks Errol62,
I had compiled a long reply about 10 days ago only for it to be lost in Hyperspace.

Great fun when it happens,
Anyway, yes, I am hoping the Crank is Parallel to the Deck.
I am also assuming the J block, being from the EJ has better machining Tolerances than earlier Grey Motors.

Being a so called "Budget Build" I am not concerned about slightly varying Compression ratios throughout the cylinders.
The Siamesed Ports do not help the cause.

I am hoping to not take the Block to the Machine Shop.
While blue printing and Balancing Engines is great it is not in the budget.

In a previous life we raced life we raced Speedway Side cars, the Regulations had an Engine Capacity of 1050CC.
We used 1100CC Engines and Sleeved one Cylinder of the 4 cylinders back 1mm to be Compliant.
These things Still reved to 11000rpm no problem.
This modification actually improved traction in the dirt slightly different capacity and power of 1 Cylinder with a smaller Capacity.
We found the Honda Super bolder Engine acted more like a tractor than the Z1100 kwaka Engine, so we transitioned to the Honda Engine.

Unfortunately, these days machining costs inhibit enthusiasm.

Anyway, digressing again.

The Plan is to Carefully disassemble bottom end, clean inspect with the view to replace minimal components.
So, just Hone, replace Rings, linish by hand Crank replace bearings, maybe replace Pistons if there is signs of wear at the current bore.
Pistons generally wear faster than Cylinder walls.
Rebuild Oil Pump, maybe port the pump but I heard varying the Pressure relief valve spring Tension can increase Pressure. I used to do that to my Junk yard Cleveland Engines in the 80`s

Only 2 bores have a very small Lip, Cylinders 2 and 3, they don't even need a ridge removal tool on them.

Time will Tell.
Ed.

[ardiesse]

Ed,

I just noticed a reference to modifying an FJ front engine mount plate to suit a J-block. Here's what you need to do:

1: The oil drain holes in the EJ front main bearing cap are lower than in an FJ. You'll need to rework the FJ front engine mount plate to suit. If you have the EJ front engine mount plate, put it back-to-back with the FJ plate, clamp well and file the FJ front plate so the crankshaft gear hole is the same outline as that in the EJ front plate.

2: In Humpies, the lower timing cover screws do not all thread into the front main bearing cap. Compare the J-block front main bearing cap and front engine mount plate with the FJ front engine mount plate. You'll see that a couple of the timing cover bolt holes on the Humpy front engine mount plate are threaded 1/4" UNC, while on the J-block's front engine mount plate the holes are plain and the front main bearing cap's threaded 5/16" UNC. Drill those holes in the FJ front engine mount plate out to 11/32". Use all EJ bolts for the timing cover.

3: J motors have an extra through bolt on the front main bearing cap, on the right side, close to where the timing gears mesh. Determine its location and drill an 11/32" hole in the FJ front engine mount plate to suit.

4: Use the EJ timing cover. Saves having to drill holes oversize in an FJ cover (outlined in (2) above).

5: Use the FJ front mounting plate gasket, modified to suit the J-block's drain holes and the extra bolt.

6: Go to a supplier of fasteners and get a few 5/16" UNC x 5/8" long countersunk hex socket-head (aka Allen) screws for the front engine mount plate. Similarly, take your 1/4" UNF camshaft thrust plate mounting screws and get socket-head cap screw or button-head equivalents (beware screw head height). It's way easier to use a hex key socket than the exact Sidchrome 7/16" AF 1/4"-drive socket when installing the camshaft.

6: J-motors have a big hex standoff to mount the generator. In Humpy blocks it's a 5/16" UNF threaded hole. I don't quite know what to do here. It all depends on whether you have a 6-V generator or a 12-V alternator.

Best of luck.

Rob

[ed.harris]

Thanks Rob,

Very important and detailed information.

I was talking to Richard Wallace about a month ago and he also warned me about the issue of Oil Drain back issues and described what happened to him previously when he first put the J Motor into his Humpy.

I didn`t get a great detail from him so this information is invaluable thanks Rob.

I was not aware of the HEX Stand off for the Generator.
The current 132 in the is running a 12 Generator with a Fat Belt.

The J Motor is going to run an Alternator with the normal belt.
I have a Sonic Injection Alternator adaptor bracket which I am also going to Run.
I am away at work at the moment and cannot visualise the HEX Boss you are referring to.

This is great information to have to solve the issues that can be demoralisingly discovered.

Or, is it just as easier to just extend the front Engine mount on the Crossmember by installing a slightly offset bracket?

The Engine can then go in other later model holdens should something and the Ute is destroyed for some reason.

Thanks again Rob.

Ed.

[ardiesse]

Ed,

The founding father of the Humpy club in NSW made a dog-leg shape adapter bracket so he didn't have to change front engine mount plates when putting later grey motors into FX/FJs.

You'd bolt it straight up to the late front mount plate. The adapter would be shaped so it bears hard up against the back side of the later front engine mount plate. The return would be dimensioned to take the early front engine mount. It's probably a good idea to weld gussets into the corners of the bracket to make it more rigid.

Rob

[In the Shed]

Hey Ed,

I think this is the hex part Rob is referring to. This is on a B block engine.

Regards
Stephen

[ed.harris]

Thanks Rob,
I am coming back to Holden Six cylinders after 40+ years away from them and even then Grey Motored Cars back then were bought for $40.00 with a couple of months rego, and, driven into the ground by very naughty 15 year olds.
Red motored Holdens performed far better and people would get virtually nothing for their Grey motor Holden with excessive Blowby out the down draft tubes.
One of them lasted only 3 hours before extra Engine Ventilation was created. Still managed to drive it`s bush resting home.
We never fixed them just bought another one.

So I am learning new things.
Converting the J Motor to FX FJ front Engine plate may be detrimental for later uses in other vehicles.
I am not really a fan of the front Engine plate arrangement, Combined with slotted metal screws as Engine bolts on the Engine can easily encourage Oil leaks. Modifying the front Engine plate could make it worse in regards to Oil leaks.

Yes I think Gusseting of the adaptor bracket would be Mandatory.
I might head over to the Humpy forum and oil the Rusty hinges and see what I can find.

Cheers.

Thanks for the Photo Stephen.
I am still learning different things about these Engines.
The photo of the B Engine is helpful.
That HEX Boss appears to be quite robust, assuming that is the reason for the change.

I would think that the Sonic Injection Alternator bracket should work with all the different Grey Motor Block Castings.

Thanks Guys for the input.
Ed.