Fex wrote: Thu May 12, 2022 6:02 pm
Drew, I’m not too familiar with milling machines so forgive the question. How do you true I up so you’re taking an even amount off across the piston? The amounts you’re talking are minuscule. And how do you take off, say 3 thou? Do you just dial it up?
Cheers; Andrew
Gday Fex, thanks for the question.
My machine had a digital read out which is pretty accurate.
Cross checking that with other measuring tools like a micrometer or dial indicator gives me the confidence to trust the read out.
During the day today making the fly cutter and the piston fixture I cross checked the digital read out and she is pretty accurate for this particular job.
The piston is clamped onto a parallel so that axis has a fixed height, the opposite axis which is held fast by the clamps is a variable so essentially the piston could be crooked.
That’s where I use I dial indicator to ensure that axis is flat to .000’
Then I simply touch the cutter on top of the piston and remove the material required for that piston to match it up with the other cylinders.
I’ll post a few other photos as I start to hit the individual pistons.
Thanks Drew. Very interesting! I’m used to measuring things with an 8m tape or in “boot” lengths.
Errol62 wrote: Sat May 14, 2022 12:38 am
If this thing doesn't tin like a Swiss watch I'll eat my beanie. Better wash it first though. My guts aren't that strong....
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I’m doing my best to pay attention to every bit of detail that I have in my power to make right.
Your beanie should be safe mate!
Loving the vids too Drew. You are certainly taking the time and making the effort to do it right. Make sure you capture the first fire up.
Full flow oil system is a nice addition. I didn’t bother on the drag car as I do an oil change after every meeting anyway but a good idea for a street car that will get the odd flogging here and there.
BS wrote: Wed May 18, 2022 12:03 pm
Loving the vids too Drew. You are certainly taking the time and making the effort to do it right. Make sure you capture the first fire up.
Full flow oil system is a nice addition. I didn’t bother on the drag car as I do an oil change after every meeting anyway but a good idea for a street car that will get the odd flogging here and there.
Loving the build. Keep it up
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Cheers mate, I’d better work out how to post the you tube links here.
It’s certainly easier to put heaps of detail into making a video, rather than posting a photo and typing a paragraph on what’s happening.
Well I have been working consistently on the motor and taking my time to look at as much detail as I can.
I have been making videos of the engine build for my YouTube channel as there is no Grey Motor builds on you tube at all, just a heap of ‘first starts’ and lumpy idle videos.
So I’m putting the effort into recording what I’m doing as I’m having a heap of fun and I hope it makes decent viewing.
You are doing a great job there and your measuring is spot on.
Can I make a comment on the oiling of the back of the bearing surfaces, I was taught never to put anything on these surfaces because it may lead to incorrect crush and a chance of spinning the bearings.
The oil has a measurement in its self and a slippery surface will not promote the grabbing of the outer shells when torqued down, especially with the conrods.
Otherwise great effort and that grey should go for ever.
You are doing a great job there and your measuring is spot on.
Can I make a comment on the oiling of the back of the bearing surfaces, I was taught never to put anything on these surfaces because it may lead to incorrect crush and a chance of spinning the bearings.
The oil has a measurement in its self and a slippery surface will not promote the grabbing of the outer shells when torqued down, especially with the conrods.
Otherwise great effort and that grey should go for ever.
Greg
Gday Greg.
Thanks for pointing that out mate, I wasn’t aware of the issue but it totally makes sense.
I’ll make sure the back of the bearings are dry on the final assembly.