Another way you could try and swage, is to use a section of cattle grid and a piece of hardwood dowel. I have made swages using steel gutter grid (which is smaller in size-re:length) You know the ones you used to get your pushbike wheels stuck in and broom handle the same way with good results.
Somewhere I came across a link where a couple of blokes in Thailand where building a Kombi ute, just using primitive hand tools, fabricating all repair sections by hand.
They were making the rear floorpan using a chisel and wood block, very time consuming but worked.
Pretty much straight off the hammerform.I had it clamped down pretty well with loads of clamps and another lump of ply.
It also had a 20mm return folded down on the bottom edge cos I need that for a hidden fixing into the timber floor,but it had the added advantage of stopping the metal pulling
forward off the hammerform as I pulled the edge over with the dead blow.
Ive been a sheety my whole adult life,but this is my first attempt at making or using a hammerform.
Just bring it around gently and try not to bring too much over at once.
I have lots more pics if you want me to start a thread.
oldnek wrote:
Somewhere I came across a link where a couple of blokes in Thailand where building a Kombi ute, just using primitive hand tools, fabricating all repair sections by hand.
They were making the rear floorpan using a chisel and wood block, very time consuming but worked.
I have seen this also, it was amazing.
[img]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/trevwood/WOOFTOsmall.jpg[/img]
Woofto Car Club Member No3
I ended up buying a bead roller and then bracing it up etc to stop the arm from walking.
besides the silly crank handle, which I want to change next, it's easy to use. teh quality is OK for hobby type use (which is me).
now a question...
I rolled some beads into the floor of a Datsun ute I'm building. I thought.. should hte beads face up or down? I ended up facing them down as I figured over time they would get dented from people getting in and out.