Project Modern FB

Post photos of your pride and joy, or updates on your rebuild!

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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

well i've finally got the Borg Warner Commdore V8 LSD shortened and in the car!

Image

its not fully together yet as you can see, i need to tweak a few things, but hopefully in the next day or two it will be, and i'll be able to see for sure at ground level how much clearance i'll have between the guards and the wheels ... i know inside clearance for the wheel is going to be plenty but outside might need the guard lips rolled.

either way im very happy to finally have it done and now i can work on the tailshaft getting made up and some brake lines for the whole deal!
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

i have just finished making the custom tailshaft myself, its just a temp job to get the length right, i'll be taking it to a tailshaft specialist to get one made up to suit this length.

i toyed with the idea of using the commodore two piece tailshaft but the angles don't really work in the fb, i think its too short compared to a commodore ... anyways, cut the centre bearing off the front and rear halves of the commodore tailshaft and it just so happens to be spot on what i wanted it to be .... so i got a piece of exhaust pipe and plug welded it into the two halves and then welded the whole thing up around the joins ... and this is the result.
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with it installed this is how much the yoke hangs out of the back, pretty much what i wanted give or take 5mm :)
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and this is it installed .... you can see up near the front of the tailshaft on the left is the commodore handbrake mechanism i welded in ... i wasn't sure how much clearance there would be between it and the tailshaft, but as you can see theres plenty ...
Image

only thing im not sure about is if the pinion angles are right, just looking at it and it looks like it might be slightly out ... if so the gearbox needs to go up, but thats not a problem as i can either space the gearbox out from its mount or space the mount out from the crossmember, and it wont need much ... see how it goes for vibrations when the car is running.

next thing on the cards will be running some brake lines and the handbrake cable so i can actually test my new driveline in my huge 20m driveway :)
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
Malcolm
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Project modern FB

Post by Malcolm »

Sammy,

Mate it looks like your coming along in leaps and bounds. I'm jealous.
Every thing looks sweet, keep up the good work.

Mal
Malcolm W.
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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

Thanks Malcolm, i am finding it hard to know where to do things, but im slowly just doing all the little things like the tailshaft, accelerator pedal and stuff like that till theres nothing more to do :)
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
Malcolm
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Project modern FB

Post by Malcolm »

Sammy,

I know what you mean, I just look at mine at the moment and walk away. Theres just so many little jobs that I don't know where to start. The only way I can do it at the moment is say to myself, OK today I'm doing this and nothing else. That seems to work.

Cheers

Mal
Malcolm W.
EK283
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Post by EK283 »

Lookin good Sammy!,
Yeah I suffer from the what do I do now syndrome? It does get boring when you do months of body work, so I normally turn to the little stuff for relief. Hopefully I will pick up my diff today so that will be a day or so trial fitting then back to the bodywork. I haven't got that much left to do and I have decided on the colour but thats a secret at this point!
Anyway keep the good work up!
Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
Malcolm
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Project modern FB

Post by Malcolm »

Hi Sammy,

Hows the ute going, I need to pick your brains if you don't mind. I'm looking at the fuel supply side of things on mine now and am interested in your setup. What size pump did you use from the tank to the fuel pot and does the setup work ok. I have in the past just used the high flow pump from the tank straight to the motor, but when the tank gets a bit low you can hear the pump growling a bit. Is that what your setup will stop.
Any info would be appreciated.
Looking forward to seeing more update pickies.

Cheers

Mal.
Malcolm W.
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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

Malcolm, way back when i used to have an EK Wagon with vk efi on it i simply ran the pump straight from the tank to the engine, this worked fine until the fuel level got down to approx 1/4 or a bit below it, on high speed corners or round abouts you'd get surge coming out of the corner, the only reason for the surge tank this time is to stop that from happening.

the small pump which feeds the surge tank is nothing more than a low pressure pump which you'd typically use on a carby motor, it has no regulator so its freely pumping as much as it can handle, this in turn means once it fills the surge tank any excess will just bleed back to the fuel tank.

the fact that the main pump is getting fuel from the surge tank then any excess from it goes back into the surge tank aswell, means that the small pump really doesn't have to move alot of fuel to keep the surge tank full.

the surging never used to be a big drama, especially considering the fuel gauge in the EK was never really 100% accurate meant that i had an early warning system for time to fill up :) its not a huge extra cost ($150 for surge tank and $130 for pump) and for the life of the car i reckon it will be worth it.

now onto my small updates :)
really hasn't been alot of progress lately as i am helping my mate get his EH Wagon running and registered again (been in storage since 2003) but just saturday morning actually i got some new brake line (2 x 6mtr lengths) to make brand new lines for the entire car.

being that i have all sorts of custom brakes etc on the car i thought it was the best way, that and the fact i have little faith in 40+ yr old brake lines which have more pitting than you could imagine and half of which i never had anyways.

i decided apon using all commodore treads and parts as far as possible to make availability later on in life a bit easier.

so far only done the diff, but yeah, bent them up to suit what i think is the best route.
Image

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gotta add some metal tabs either side of the diff centre to hold them in place.

now i need to see if i can find a t-piece with a nice long flexable hose to connect to the original floor mount for the car, otherwise i'll have to get something custom made, but i think i want braided lines anyways so yeah, we'll see how that pans out.

im also going to get some more pipe in 5/16 to make all new fuel lines, but i'll finish the brakes first :roll:

its been quite fun making these myself, very slow and tedious to get the bends right and all that but very rewarding, and it also gives me a good chance to get some kays on the double flaring tool i got for christmas :)

its a strange feeling having all new lines in an old holden :lol:

anyways i've waffled on for long enough, time to make some food edible!
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
Malcolm
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Project modern FB

Post by Malcolm »

Sammy,

Thanks for the advice, I've decided to go that way and fit the surge tank.

With my fuel lines, I used the originals and just reshaped them to suit the FB floor pan. That way there in a block which incorporates the supply line the return line and the vapour line and the brake line.

Where are you going to put the battery???

I was going to get a small battery and try to make it fit into the engine bay but there just isn't enough room so I've decided to put it in the boot.

You soon run out of room in the engine bay when you get rid of the old grey motor for something bigger. And yes the small jobs definately take the most time.

Cheers

Mal
Malcolm W.
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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

well i have only got one line for the fuel line now anyways, but i was thinking i'd do similar and run two fuel lines plus the vapour line and brake line all in the same route, but im yet to decide if i'll go with the standard route or use the outside of the chassis rail, i think i'll probably go the standard route though as the chassis rail may not allow sufficent protection if something hits it from the bottom ....

what are you doing for the vapour line ? im using an aviation style filler and they have a breather line on them so i'll probably just route the vapour line to that which will be the highest point in the tank.

i assume you've seen the location of my surge tank back on page two of this thread, well the battery is in the same spot under the tray but on the passenger side ... two reasons, for space mainly and also neatness, i'll just have a removable section of the tray at the front so i can get to both if needs be.
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
Blacky
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Post by Blacky »

Malcolm, I have a battery out of a Jet Ski in the brides V6 EK. It is small enough to fit in the front right hand corner of the engine bay and hasnt given any trouble in the 2 years we have had it in.
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.


Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
EK283
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Post by EK283 »

Sammy,
Looking good mate, should stop a treat as well.

Over the years I have seen a lot of good cars with old shitty brake lines, I cant understand it because its not that hard to do and is not expensive either :shock:

I think braided lines look good so I think Ill go down that road as well.


Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

well i've finally got an update to post :)

theres been a few areas i've been working on lately, both related to the brakes.

i decided to use as much of the commodore brake parts as practical, which meant using the flex hose that goes from the diff to the floor. As i wanted to use the original floor mount i had to get the commodore line re-made with a bit of extra length ...

Image

so i've got that all happening now and will just be welding part of its original mount to the diff (the bit you can see in the pic below), got new brake line nuts aswell and flared the ends up ....

Image

unfortunately thats as far as i've gotten with this tonight as i broke the die for the flaring tool (fingers crossed i can buy them seperately!).

the other area which i've been making some progress on is the brake booster and pedal assembly mounting, but i must stress that i can't take all the credit for it as i got the ideas off Malcolm who was kind enough to give me some more details on how he did his! (what can i say, no need to work hard when someone else has a good design!)

that being said i've done some things slightly different as i have some different parts ... so i used the original pedal box assembly and modified it slightly to allow the commodore brake booster to be mounted directly too it.

you can see in the pic below the areas which have been welded, i cut them and bashed them over a bit to get enough clearance for the brake booster nuts and then re-welded them in the new location.

Image

you can also see in the pic above in the middle of the pedal box there is the commodore booster protruding through it.

so with that in place that means mounting the pedal in the centre of the pedal box, so what im doing here is going to be to bend the pedal to the right to clear the steering column and also i have a a ball joint on the end of the plunger with a threaded end so i can adjust the length precisely and it should also give a fairly industrial pivot that should last forever.

Image

hopefully tomorrow i will be visiting my uncle and using his lathe to turn down the plunger (the steel rod on the right in the above pic) then i can cut a thread onto it and it should be apples then.
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
Malcolm
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Project modern FB

Post by Malcolm »

Sammy,

Mate its looking good, have you had it all running yet?? wiring ect. I've been bashing my head up against a brick wall trying to get mine running with no success yet. All the wiring is done but the bitch still won't go. Finally the computer has been sent back to Gardners for checking as they told me that they have had a few problems with no injecter pulse, (computer needs reseting or something). Hopefully next week it will be running.
How did you get on with clearence on the commodore booster and the bonnet hinges.
Mate keep up the good work.

Cheers

Mal
Malcolm W.
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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

Mal,

the difference between you and me is you have a conversion loom, i have the entire vr commodore loom in the car including all the body control module and anti theft stuff so yeah once i hit the commodore key button to disable the anti theft then the engine does start and run ....

i believe gardners sell a anti theft simulator or something like that to get around it but i guess you'd know more about that than i would ... do you have the engine check light connected ? does it flash when you turn the igntion on or try to key it over ... if so the codes will give you the answers (email me if you like and i can help you with that)

to be honest i haven't checked the spring, i know the booster was fairly close before when i had it sitting further out from the firewall, but i want to use struts and remove the springs anyways so im not too worried if they do, but the bonnet does close i can tell you that much.

got the brake booster shaft all sorted out this arvo, so tomorrow will see it all go back together so then i will be able to tick one more bit off!

Image

Image
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
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