Looking at giving the old girl a once over and would like to know how to check the clutch adjustment on the 3 speed? It has a new master cyl and slave cyl but one of the selector rods rests on top of the slave cylinder and just doesn't seem right to me. Should i be able to move the clutch fork at all as i can't get any movement out of it what so ever..
( I Did a search but couldn't find anything sorry if it has been posted before )
Cheers
Josh
Clutch adjustment - 3 speed
The gearshift selector rods shouldn't rub against the clutch slave cylinder but they will in some cars if the end of the shift linkage is worn at the gearbox end and/or the selector lever shaft is also worn at the gearbox and/or the shift linkage bushes on the column are worn also.
If they are worn they can be repaired by welding up the hole in the selector lever and re drilling.The shift linkage can also be repaired by welding and reshaping.
If you have no "free play " between your clutch pushrod and clutch fork then your throwout bearing inside will be hard up under load against the clutch diafragm fingers and will wear out quick if left like this for too long or, as I have seen in some cars when the bearing seizes, the clutch bearing wears away the fingers completely leaving you clutchless on the side of the road.
Don't have access ATM to the factory freeplay specs but for general specs I would give the pushrod about 1/8 the inch ( 3 mm ) approx freeplay.Just undo the locknuts on the pushrod, hold the pushrod with,say , visegrips or similar ( making sure you don't damage the threads on the pushrod ) and adjust the end nut on the pushrod so it has the above mentioned clearance between it and the clutch fork.
I would clean the thread also on the pushrod and WD40 it before adjusting as dirty threads will clog up in the adjusting nut and make it harder and harder to turn as it clogs up in the thread more and more.
If they are worn they can be repaired by welding up the hole in the selector lever and re drilling.The shift linkage can also be repaired by welding and reshaping.
If you have no "free play " between your clutch pushrod and clutch fork then your throwout bearing inside will be hard up under load against the clutch diafragm fingers and will wear out quick if left like this for too long or, as I have seen in some cars when the bearing seizes, the clutch bearing wears away the fingers completely leaving you clutchless on the side of the road.
Don't have access ATM to the factory freeplay specs but for general specs I would give the pushrod about 1/8 the inch ( 3 mm ) approx freeplay.Just undo the locknuts on the pushrod, hold the pushrod with,say , visegrips or similar ( making sure you don't damage the threads on the pushrod ) and adjust the end nut on the pushrod so it has the above mentioned clearance between it and the clutch fork.
I would clean the thread also on the pushrod and WD40 it before adjusting as dirty threads will clog up in the adjusting nut and make it harder and harder to turn as it clogs up in the thread more and more.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Also,
If you adjust the clutch when the engine is cold give it a poofteenth of in inch extra freeplay as some clutch systems can expand with heat up and metal expansion giving two different hot/cold adjustment figures.
Some car manufacturers actually specify hot and cold clutch freeplay clearances ( I know some Nissans and Toyota's used to years ago ).
A bit like tappet adjustment specs with hot engine and cold engine specs being a few thou different due to metal expansion.
It may not apply in these old girls but best to have too much clutch free travel than not enough.
If you adjust the clutch when the engine is cold give it a poofteenth of in inch extra freeplay as some clutch systems can expand with heat up and metal expansion giving two different hot/cold adjustment figures.
Some car manufacturers actually specify hot and cold clutch freeplay clearances ( I know some Nissans and Toyota's used to years ago ).
A bit like tappet adjustment specs with hot engine and cold engine specs being a few thou different due to metal expansion.
It may not apply in these old girls but best to have too much clutch free travel than not enough.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
You may have some air in the system still and if so this will give it a spongy feel and not enough clutch.
There is an adjustable pushrod from the pedal to the master cylinder as well so you might want to check that it doesn't have too much free travel.It needs to be adjusted so it just touches the brake master cylinder piston.
If all air is out of the system and you have adjusted the pushrod correctly there may be some other problem.Sometimes the clutch forks can crack/break/bend and this may have happened or maybe something not right with the clutch itself??
There is an adjustable pushrod from the pedal to the master cylinder as well so you might want to check that it doesn't have too much free travel.It needs to be adjusted so it just touches the brake master cylinder piston.
If all air is out of the system and you have adjusted the pushrod correctly there may be some other problem.Sometimes the clutch forks can crack/break/bend and this may have happened or maybe something not right with the clutch itself??
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
-
matches
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 6:08 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: port macquarie, nsw
Re: Clutch adjustment - 3 speed
i would like to know this too. i have new master, piping, and slave and still not enough clutch movement. help PLEASE!!.woodsy wrote:Ok, whats the secret with bleeding the clutch system. Have done it afew different ways and still cant get much pressure at the pedal. Whats the best fluid to use?
luke.
Re: Clutch adjustment - 3 speed
Hi Luke, Unfortunately it just takes time to get it to bleed and yes it is a pain in the arse and yes you will swear lol
From memory all i did was keep fluid in the reservoir push down on the pedal and crack the bleed nipple, let it go to the floor and then do the bleed nipple up pull the pedal back up if it doesnt come up by itself and then do it all over again, eventually u will get pressure in the pedal it just takes time.
From memory all i did was keep fluid in the reservoir push down on the pedal and crack the bleed nipple, let it go to the floor and then do the bleed nipple up pull the pedal back up if it doesnt come up by itself and then do it all over again, eventually u will get pressure in the pedal it just takes time.
Re: Clutch adjustment - 3 speed
A trick I found useful for bleeding the front brake on my Harley is - go to a vet and buy a horse worming syringe , fit a piece of plastic hose to the end of it , crack the bleed nipple at the caliper (or slave cylinder in this case ) and fill from the bottom upwards - this way you dont get any air bubbles in the hose . You may need a helper in the car pumping the clutch pedal slightly to allow the fluid into the reservoir ?
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.