Have had one of THOSE days today, Just come in from fualt finding and repair mission. Farkin EK tried to kill me in peak hour traffic this morning!!! Brake pedal straight to the floor ...To say I shit is an understatement, 40mph and no brakes is daunting surrounded by other cars, damn near ripped the handbrake out of the firewall. Got out of everyones way pretty quick, flatbed home..
Damage report, very wierd. The pins and clips that hold the brakes on, off! Pins completely gone. Same with the bolts in the rear of the wheel cylinder and one of the pistons had fallen out too. Explains the pedal sinking! Not sure but I think the pins either broke or jiggled loose, god knows how or when creating alot of movement but funnily enough no noises or difference in the brake pedal. I can only guess this worked the bolts loose. And before you say it I'm worth more alive to the missus than dead
Anyway what I want to know is what dual circuit setups are out there that don't require shiftng/modifying bonnet hinges? I seem to have lost a little faith in single circuit systems.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
the hardest thing about setting up the HQ type i've done is making new brake pipes and no probs with hinge, the spring just touches on the master cylinder but that's it
all you have to do is die grind the hole in the firewall bigger and drill 2 holes and the master cylinder is on, hook yor front brakes only up through the booster, and then but not overly important but an improvement use drum brake rear wheel cylinders instead of disc brake cylinders this meens you also have to change the rear shoes aswell
a very easy conversion
I don't know if your auto or manual but the system I used is brilliant. Probably more stuffing around that you want to do but, the booster is a small unifit from Hoppers and a Holden duel circit unit from a HJ. The pedal I mounted in the center of the original pedal housing and made another hole in between the two original ones. My brake test on the weekend by the engineer was very impressive.
Thank goodness no damage was suffered - and yes, your post was beginning to read as if external intervention was the route cause........... I'd be looking for marks around where the bolts were fitted........sorry - I am naturally suspicious............
Yes, it is very much a concern of mine that I use a single line circuit.
Unfortunately, mine is manual and I don't want to fit an extended boxed section to get clearance from the hinges............. I have seen modified hinges at the nats and will probably go this way eventually............ unless a small diameter "assisted" and not "servo" master setup can be found and fitted.
I usually coat the threads of critical bolts/nuts with Loctite 262. It's just me, but I feel a bit more comfortable in doing this.
I have no experience with any dual circuit system - I do run the smaller rear wheel cylinders with the HR disc fronts............... I have no understanding or figures for proportions using other than recommended.
rosco you need the disc cylinders on the rear if you have disc front or you'll get rear lockup when brakes applied hard
so with the setup i mentioned as the booster only runs the front brakes by putting the drum rear cylinders it ups the breaking of the rear to compensate a little
So Rat if the back were to be boosted would the smaller diameter ones be best to use?
It would pretty much replicate the setup I have now just dual boosted circuits, or am I missing something critical? Not too sure with brakes like Rosco I just used the recommended bits.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
i spoke to guy at hopper stoppers other week he said they had a nissan master cyclinder that would bolt straight on to the ek without any mods $220 new .. he did say fittings would have to be modified for metric and rear wheel cyclinder should be the larger drum type ..
but if a hq one bolts on with only a small mod, it seem the way to go ..
seems the school of thought has changed i take it with dual systems u . dont boost the rear and use drum wheel cylinders .. i have not done mine yet but a engineer i spoke to wanted me to fit duals for safety reasons and devil has just pointed out a valuable lesson for all of us for the small amout of work and cost .. DUAL ..
Hey Brett, I have a HQ master cylinder and the same remote booster as yours, boosted front only though.
The easiest way to do the lines is get some normal wire and bend it to the shape and length you need, take these wires to a break specialist who will make the line for you with the ends attatched, then bend them to fit your car.
Took me about 1 day to do, easy Trev .
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Woofto Car Club Member No3
Dual circuit is the way to go though. I think what I have now is basically an LH Torana setup only single circuit. Had to say exactly as I bought it all off a mate who got me everything I needed.
I do have the brakes all sorted for the time being though. Just finished bleeding them not too long ago. It must have been metal fatigue, as it was the same side on which 3 wheel studs failed. I think the diff I got had been sitting in water at some stage as one side was way worse than the other. Other side seems fine, fingers crossed all is good for now.
When I originally did the brake lines on the EK the brother in law was working for Pirtek Not now though Thanks for the help guys. Its on the list of things to do...
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
...To say I shit is an understatement, 40mph and no brakes is daunting surrounded by other cars, damn near ripped the handbrake out of the firewall. Got out of everyones way pretty quick, flatbed home..
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Thanks for the help guys. Its on the list of things to do...