help please help im gonna slash my wrists dam baily channels

karsten · Post by **karsten** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 5:16 pm

as the title say i need some help,,, ive got the new rares baily chanells with the chrome trim,,, theres one for each door,,, and a tin backed one aswell that is shallower than the rubber coated one,,,, which one goes where as the front quarter glass one seems to sit out alot ,,,the tin one i thought may go at the top but now im wondering if it goes against the quarter glass,,,has this been a topic allready,,,and is there any pics i can see,,,,,, the old ones where all rubber??? so these ones have me abit p>ssed off as they have no instructions worth p>ssing on

sorry for my rude -ness im not happy jan

scratched some paint

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:42 pm

Hi Karsten,
it's years since I did mine - mine were Rare's and all went together well ......
just having a "think" on how I did it.

I'm pretty sure the thin one you mention goes on the division bar - between the quarter glass and main window glass.
There is an adhesive backing which will "hold" the bailey channel into the frame channel.
The only thing I can remember at present was the join which had to be made at the right angled corner - it was a pain to get right - and yes, those sharp edges of the stainless trim are deadly on paint - I remember using a very fine stone on my dremel to dull them down without leaving a gap at the joint.

If you are doing the front 1/4 vent seals - the thin strip up the division bar is a little tricky - I wrote something on that and have been asked for it a number of times................. let me know...

I'll have a peek through my logbooks/journals tomorrow and hopefully write something up on the bailey channel at around lunch time.

Don't worry about scratches - you're in acrylic solid colour and DON'T have any clear ratio in your mix - easy.......... wait until you've got it all sitting pretty then think about touch ups............... we won't know where you've been in spot repair by the time you make Yamba - give you some tips on touch ups when you're ready........

sorry I can't be absolute on the bailey now, but would rather make sure I'm not telling you stuff that isn't correct...

frats,
Rosco

ooops - before I forget - until you do your "final" block back (in whenever) don't WAX or polymer - you need the thinners to get out - not cause issues trying to - and sealant will make touch ups much harder - just let it air off for the time you are fitting the rest out................ my thoughts.

Craig · Post by **Craig** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:16 pm

Sorry mate I used Clark rubber baily channels on mine but the one on the quarter vent pillar was smaller in height than the one on the top and backs of the door frames the originals

karsten · Post by **karsten** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:50 am

thanks guys,,, that is what i was starting to think they mite be like i first thought that the tin one must go to top but after fiting rubber one in quarter channel i new it was wrong,,,,will not do anything till i see what you find rosco thanks in advance

thropzed · Post by **thropzed** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:35 am

Karsten, The reason that the quarter channel sits proud is due to facory were fitted and held in place with two point tabs that stick out of the locating channel. I removed these to make a flat surface for them to sit in and then drilled two small self tappers counter sunk so as not to foul the window. I've also done similar to the Van, But I drilled two small holes in the bailey where the tabs are and the tabs are enough to hold them in position. The sedan ones I put the screws in after a couple of years of pushing the darn things back up after winding down the window.
Cheers Theo Z.......................

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:53 am

Hi Karsten,
just found my write up and checked with the Rare's chap - Bob Pez @ Campbellfield - he no longer does fittings, but was happy to talk with me when I told him I was from the Vic club..........

It is still as I had done many years back.

Must remove all clips, stakes, tabs and stuff in the channels - must have clear aperture all way around.

Done in three sections -

Use piece of 6" Masonite to force channel into aperture

File, sand, de-burr all sharp edges where cuts are made.

First
Is the division channel (rear side of 1/4 vent)
This is the thinner one with the steel back.
Fit it all the way to the top of the door.

Second
Fit rear channel - again all the way to the top of the door and cut the top square.

Third
Measure the length roughly and allow heaps of "spare" - this is the critical cut - it will be seen - old adage.......measure twice, cut once.

Make the rear cut angle at slightly less than at 90 degrees - it will sit in firmly against the rear vertical bailey - push it into the rear firmly so that you can measure how long the top piece has to be -

Temporarily fit the top - when you cut this to length - cut it at least 1" longer than possibly required - fit it "bowed".
Fit into back top of door first then measure to 1/4 vent division bar.

When you are happy with the fit, cut 1/4 vent end of top bailey.

Finally when all in - wind up glass and use length of 1" pine to gently tap all the channel and stainless trim into final position - be careful not to damage trim - it is stainless and may be hollow - it will "dent"

Hope this helps, Karsten.

If you have further trouble - email me and I'll show you pix of what I have done.......... I dented my first attempt..

I have yet to do the r/hs of my car.........it's still in original state....... you'll see............ takes me forever to do anything...

frats,
Rosco

karsten · Post by **karsten** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:35 pm

thanks theo,,,i know what you mean with the tabs and was thinking they would have to go,,,hey theo those scuff plates are they the same as what rares sell theyve got two and i have to wait for the other two if i want them three months maybe but there chrome looking things ,,look flash ,,,there on rares website under trim or scuff plates?????wondering if thats what you have

thanks heaps rosco ,,, i new there was somthing not right ,,and youve proved it ,,,now i can start with knollege ,,,better than bluffing aye,,,
also mite have to get another kit for one door now that ive buggerd one it may be ok will have a play tomorrow

cheers guys

the bionic ek

thropzed · Post by **thropzed** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:05 pm

Karsten,
No, I thought you needed the trims that sit on top of the scuff plate?
Like the one rosco put up in another post.
I will have a look for the link.
Cheers Theo Z...............

thropzed · Post by **thropzed** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:11 pm

Here Karsten, Try this
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3959
Cheers Theo Z......................

karsten · Post by **karsten** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:15 pm

yeah im missing the whole lot theo not just the trim on top

all ive got is the top of the sill with holes in it

i did not realise that i was meant to have em till i got the wb

shows how dumb i am 16 years later i realise i could of talk the dude down on price

cause it was missing parts

thropzed · Post by **thropzed** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:32 am

Karsten,
I do have a couple of sets. They would need a good going over to get them up to scratch. The rares ones look sweeeet! I don't think they come with the trim and like rosco has done he added them on the stainless ones. Send me a PM and we'll see when and where I can get them for you. We have a run up your way on the 27th. We are going to the Rail museum at Rosewood. Keep an eye on What's Happening in QLD for more info.
Cheers Theo Z...............