Heres the story...
At the end of last year i thought i'd give the carby on the utes old grey a birthday and get it reco'd. Did that, 2 1/2 months later i finally got around to putting it back on. GOt it starte, although it as a bit rough, took it for a drive about 20k's. The more i drove the rougher it went until i rolled back into the driveway and it conked out, had to push into the garage believe it or not.
First thought was, bloody carby bloke as the ute was running pretty good beforehand apart from a bit of a flat spot and a slight lack of power (was the carby as this carby did the same thing when i put it on the wagon).
Anyway, I swapped the good carby off the wagon onto the ute and it was doing the same thing.
Next thought, f%#k! Started looking around again, found the rotor was slightly stripped in the middle, halellujah. Replaced the rotor. Got the timing spot on, got it started but it was still running rough.
No idea now so I took it over the road to the local mechanic. He repeated the thing I had already done - cleaned the carby thoroughly, cleared the jets, nothing. Swapped the carby's, same thing happening. Ordered in new points and condensor, nothing. Swapped the fuel line for a bottle of clean fuel, nothing.
What else could it be???
I have put my hand over the carby while it is idling and it stalled so i don't think there is any air leaks.
To get it started you have to put your foot flat to the floor then ease off once it is going. It won't idle and it runs really rough, although the mechanic told me today he can't even get it started now!
I will be towing it home on Thursday and contineing on myself, will check manifold seal, but can't think of anything else, al has been checked. Can the dizzy be stuffed, the points nad the condensor has been replaced?
My next problem is I have to sell it, 1- I don't want to, 2 - I don't want to, 3 - the boss is pregnant and what she says goes so i have to, 4 - I can keep the wagon so that is ok 5 - I will probably buy it back again for the young one in 16 years time so need to get it going!
Any ideas?
Mat
Ute won't go no more
Ute won't go no more
mmm, maybe one day :roll:
Hmmmmmm.......................... seems like you've negated the carby as being the problem by what you've said and the dizzy electrical itself by replacing the points,condenser,rotor etc.Do the points "spark" when the dizzy cap is off and you turn the motor as if you are starting it??Is points gap correct and set on the high point of the dizzy cam lobe??
It could be sucking air somewhere still so check all conections on the manifold including vacuum advance line.Maybe a hole in the vacuum advance diafragm in the dizzy?? allowing it to suck air.Check to see if vacuum diafragm is working by basically sucking on the line and see if it moves the diaf ragm rod in the dizzy.
If you are running a brake booster check to see its not sucking air there from a perforated booster diafragm.Happened to me once on a UC Torana V8 I had once years ago.
Is the fuel pump working OK and pumping enough fuel to the carby??Is the fuel fresh??
Check for restricted air bleed hole in the fuel cap maybe or a blockage/restriction in the fuel line from the tank.
Check for carbon tracking or cracked dizzy cap inside and outside the dizzy and also around the coil bakelite area ( your mechanic will know what I'm talking about ).Check plugs for carbon tracking as well as check they are working OK.Check plug leads and coil lead for excessive resistance.
Have you replaced inlet manifold gasket?? If not, try that ( yes , I know its a pain in the arse to do
) and also check the manifold to head face for warpage and machine if it's warped too much.
Cyl head usually doesn't warp in this area but manifolds often do which will make then suck air there even with a new gasket if they are warped to a great extent.
There are probably other things to check but that might keep you busy for a while ATM with your head in the engine bay and your bum in the air checking all those things .
Hope that is of help,
Terry.
It could be sucking air somewhere still so check all conections on the manifold including vacuum advance line.Maybe a hole in the vacuum advance diafragm in the dizzy?? allowing it to suck air.Check to see if vacuum diafragm is working by basically sucking on the line and see if it moves the diaf ragm rod in the dizzy.
If you are running a brake booster check to see its not sucking air there from a perforated booster diafragm.Happened to me once on a UC Torana V8 I had once years ago.
Is the fuel pump working OK and pumping enough fuel to the carby??Is the fuel fresh??
Check for restricted air bleed hole in the fuel cap maybe or a blockage/restriction in the fuel line from the tank.
Check for carbon tracking or cracked dizzy cap inside and outside the dizzy and also around the coil bakelite area ( your mechanic will know what I'm talking about ).Check plugs for carbon tracking as well as check they are working OK.Check plug leads and coil lead for excessive resistance.
Have you replaced inlet manifold gasket?? If not, try that ( yes , I know its a pain in the arse to do
) and also check the manifold to head face for warpage and machine if it's warped too much.Cyl head usually doesn't warp in this area but manifolds often do which will make then suck air there even with a new gasket if they are warped to a great extent.
There are probably other things to check but that might keep you busy for a while ATM with your head in the engine bay and your bum in the air checking all those things
.Hope that is of help,
Terry.
Last edited by FB MAD on Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:12 am, edited 2 times in total.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
One more thing, does the dizzy rotor button turn when you wind over the motor??.Just asking as the good old reliable runs-forever-without-a-problem fibre timing gear may be stripped or starting to strip.Long shot but a possibility in some cases.
Also check the carbon rotor button in the dizzy cap to make sure its not broken or stuck up inside the cap.
Terry.
Also check the carbon rotor button in the dizzy cap to make sure its not broken or stuck up inside the cap.
Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Sigs. get her on Top Dead centre No 1, where the piston is at its highest point in the cylinder and check that the rotor button is actually pointing to or pretty close to the Number 1 ht lead point on the cap. Maybe shes sheared a tooth on the gear and running retard.
Regards John
Regards John
There's nothing as Sweet as a EK V8
have now swapped dizzies with the wagon, still no change. The coil has been swapped and didn't make a difference. By the way, the Wagon which was passed onto me runs like an absolute dream. Its my daily driver from the gong to campbelltown for work each day, no probs at all up mt ousley etc. Sensational, anyway, back to the bloody ute!
John the timing is spot on, have checked and rechecked this over and over, as the motor runs like the timing is way out. When #1 is at top dead centre the rotor points at the mark on the dizzy and the timing dot appears in the window. Maybe is hould try moving it one tooth advanced and one tooth retarded to see if this helps, although it will then be firing way before or way after top dead centre.
Have dumped the fuel and changed over, sucked on the vacuum line which pulled on the advance in the dizzy, no brake booster, there is always fuel in the carby (squirts out when depress accelerator).
The only thing now is to put a new manifold gasket on in case of an air leak, although i dont think this is an issue as when i cover the carby the car stalls.
After that, is there some way i can check the valves etc? Do i take the rocker cover off and is ther some type of visual inspection that can be done, and could a problem with the valves be causing the motor to run so poorly? I'm guessing if i try and run the motor with the rocker cover off to see the valves in action Im gonna get covered in oil....
cheers,
mat
John the timing is spot on, have checked and rechecked this over and over, as the motor runs like the timing is way out. When #1 is at top dead centre the rotor points at the mark on the dizzy and the timing dot appears in the window. Maybe is hould try moving it one tooth advanced and one tooth retarded to see if this helps, although it will then be firing way before or way after top dead centre.
Have dumped the fuel and changed over, sucked on the vacuum line which pulled on the advance in the dizzy, no brake booster, there is always fuel in the carby (squirts out when depress accelerator).
The only thing now is to put a new manifold gasket on in case of an air leak, although i dont think this is an issue as when i cover the carby the car stalls.
After that, is there some way i can check the valves etc? Do i take the rocker cover off and is ther some type of visual inspection that can be done, and could a problem with the valves be causing the motor to run so poorly? I'm guessing if i try and run the motor with the rocker cover off to see the valves in action Im gonna get covered in oil....
cheers,
mat
mmm, maybe one day :roll:
Hey Mat, Here's a little trick for checking your rockers while engine is running. Get yourself an old rocker cover and cut a rectangular hole done the centre about 2' wide, now you can run the engine without oil flying all over the place.
As far as the motor not running sweet. Has the new carbie been setup for your motor ie: air meter, fuel bowl level or has it just been rebuilt to standard specs.
I assume you have replaced all leads and plugs, rotor button and cap, points and coil.
Does the engine run and then feel like it wants to stall.
Do you have to keep the throttle up to keep it running.
I would probably look in the service manual and go through the trouble shooting section to eliminate all possible problems.
Then if that don't work, I'd go and find me another grey motor and chuck it in and hope for the best. Hey thats just me!lol
Good luck with it, Last time I had a similar problem, it turned out that i had a tiny spec of dirt caught under my fuel float.
Cheers Theo Z...............
As far as the motor not running sweet. Has the new carbie been setup for your motor ie: air meter, fuel bowl level or has it just been rebuilt to standard specs.
I assume you have replaced all leads and plugs, rotor button and cap, points and coil.
Does the engine run and then feel like it wants to stall.
Do you have to keep the throttle up to keep it running.
I would probably look in the service manual and go through the trouble shooting section to eliminate all possible problems.
Then if that don't work, I'd go and find me another grey motor and chuck it in and hope for the best. Hey thats just me!lol
Good luck with it, Last time I had a similar problem, it turned out that i had a tiny spec of dirt caught under my fuel float.
Cheers Theo Z...............
Watch for the early bird, He might be just getting home.
FB/EK Car Club of QLD.
FB/EK Car Club of QLD.
-
anotherfbnewbie
- Posts: 49
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:57 pm
- State: SA
- Location: Adelaide
Mat, i dont know if you have tried this but sounds like you have similar symptoms to what i was going through today.
I have been getting a FB sedan going that was left to me by a mate who died, (i posted the whole story in the "got something to say" forum and the thread is "ive inherited a FB if you're interested.
Any how, i had removed and cleaned the tank, cleaned up the fuel lines and carby and all the rest of the usual stuff like leads plugs etc and was feeling very proud of myself as it was running fine for a couple of days, but then for no apparent reason it went pear shaped.
Would still start and rev but would not idle and even under revs it was rough. Plenty of fuel was in the bowl, and as far as i was concerned, the carby jets were fine as it had been running so well.
A mate of mine who is a honda mechanic suggeted removing the air filter cover, swithching number 3 and 4 spark plug leads on the dizzy cap, (opposite to each other) which will alter the firing order, and cause a backfire through the carby, hopefully blowing out any minute piece of flyshit which may have found it's way into the carby.
I followed his advice and let it backfire about four times, switched them back and hey presto, no more problem.
Its a cheap test and i hope you have some luck.
I have been getting a FB sedan going that was left to me by a mate who died, (i posted the whole story in the "got something to say" forum and the thread is "ive inherited a FB if you're interested.
Any how, i had removed and cleaned the tank, cleaned up the fuel lines and carby and all the rest of the usual stuff like leads plugs etc and was feeling very proud of myself as it was running fine for a couple of days, but then for no apparent reason it went pear shaped.
Would still start and rev but would not idle and even under revs it was rough. Plenty of fuel was in the bowl, and as far as i was concerned, the carby jets were fine as it had been running so well.
A mate of mine who is a honda mechanic suggeted removing the air filter cover, swithching number 3 and 4 spark plug leads on the dizzy cap, (opposite to each other) which will alter the firing order, and cause a backfire through the carby, hopefully blowing out any minute piece of flyshit which may have found it's way into the carby.
I followed his advice and let it backfire about four times, switched them back and hey presto, no more problem.
Its a cheap test and i hope you have some luck.
fbnewbie, any chance this will damage the motor?
Terry,
I fixed the vacuum line and stil no go so I put the oil down the cylinders. You were right, lots of smoke. Still no go so I swapped the coil, dizzy and carby over from the working wagon. ONce the dizzy was on it fired up, yay!!!
Now I'm back to square one, it's running, but very rough. I drove it for a few hundred metres, no power, and it seemed as the motor got hotter, it had less and less power.
So at the moment I have the carby, dizzy and coil on it which are all working well on the other car.
If you follow this link i have uploaded a video with sound (i think, my speakers dont work on my computer so i can't confirm) of the motor as it is right now. Have a listen and see if anything pops into your head.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbLNFH7w-0k
cheers,
Mat Sigs
Terry,
I fixed the vacuum line and stil no go so I put the oil down the cylinders. You were right, lots of smoke. Still no go so I swapped the coil, dizzy and carby over from the working wagon. ONce the dizzy was on it fired up, yay!!!
Now I'm back to square one, it's running, but very rough. I drove it for a few hundred metres, no power, and it seemed as the motor got hotter, it had less and less power.
So at the moment I have the carby, dizzy and coil on it which are all working well on the other car.
If you follow this link i have uploaded a video with sound (i think, my speakers dont work on my computer so i can't confirm) of the motor as it is right now. Have a listen and see if anything pops into your head.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbLNFH7w-0k
cheers,
Mat Sigs
mmm, maybe one day :roll:
G'day Mat,
The video with sound worked OK.Had a listen a couple of times....... Hmmmmmmmm ??..??..??
So the Dizzy,Carby,Coil,Leads were off a good perfectly running car so that narrows it down a bit.
I guess the firing order is correct ?.
Should be 153624 in a clockwise direction from number one.
You haven't adjusted the tappets have you?
Only reason I ask is that I incorrectly adjusted tappets on a grey years ago when I was still at school and it kinda sorta ran similar to that.Readjusted them properly and it was fine.
Does sound like a valve timing/timing/ignition problem??
I'll PM you my home phone number, ring me tonight after about 8 pm and I'll have another yack to you.
Talk then,
Terry.
The video with sound worked OK.Had a listen a couple of times....... Hmmmmmmmm ??..??..??
So the Dizzy,Carby,Coil,Leads were off a good perfectly running car so that narrows it down a bit.
I guess the firing order is correct ?.
Should be 153624 in a clockwise direction from number one.
You haven't adjusted the tappets have you?
Only reason I ask is that I incorrectly adjusted tappets on a grey years ago when I was still at school and it kinda sorta ran similar to that.Readjusted them properly and it was fine.
Does sound like a valve timing/timing/ignition problem??
I'll PM you my home phone number, ring me tonight after about 8 pm and I'll have another yack to you.
Talk then,
Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Mat,
Have you checked the fuel pump?
I had a problem years ago with a grey that had me absolutely stuffed.
What was happening was I would set the timing exactly as john says and the motor would run sweet, even reved whilst standing still no problems.
Take it for a drive and the dam thing would cough and splutter to a point it wouldn't run again. Reset the timing and the same thing would happen.
Mate if there was any time I was going to set a car on fire it was then!!!!
I eventually found the problem and to this day am still in denial that it could happen. The fibre cam gear had a hairline crack and would open just enough for the cam to slip past a tooth and put the timing out.
Im just wondering if this has accured enough to throw your timing out as sloth has said. Eg the rotor button and pistons match but the valve timing could be out.
Hard to solve without being under the bonnet.
Good luck
Regards Greg
Have you checked the fuel pump?
I had a problem years ago with a grey that had me absolutely stuffed.
What was happening was I would set the timing exactly as john says and the motor would run sweet, even reved whilst standing still no problems.
Take it for a drive and the dam thing would cough and splutter to a point it wouldn't run again. Reset the timing and the same thing would happen.
Mate if there was any time I was going to set a car on fire it was then!!!!
I eventually found the problem and to this day am still in denial that it could happen. The fibre cam gear had a hairline crack and would open just enough for the cam to slip past a tooth and put the timing out.
Im just wondering if this has accured enough to throw your timing out as sloth has said. Eg the rotor button and pistons match but the valve timing could be out.
Hard to solve without being under the bonnet.
Good luck
Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!