Reversing camera

[fraze]

Hope someone can help here. I have fitted a reversing camera to my FB ute. Works fine until I rev the engine, where it flickers and loses the picture. When the engine returns to idle the picture comes back. I guess it is either excess voltage or electrical interference . I have the same brand of camera in my FC sedan and that works no problem. I can’t figure what the difference might be, Any ideas?...thanks, Fraze

[ardiesse]

Fraze,

Run the camera from a separate battery and repeat the test. If the problem persists, it's interference-related; and if the problem goes away, it's supply-related.

Rob

[Harv]

You could fit the genuine Nasco reversing camera (optional bucket seats shown):

2E29510D-2FA2-4251-9EEF-9353E9AD288A.jpeg (25.94 KiB) Viewed 1324 times

Cheers,
Harv

[fraze]

Thanks for the advice Ardiesse .I fitted a noise suppressor to the generator but that changed nothing so I ran the camera off a seperate battery and it works fine. SO I have a supply problem! I am lost here - can anyone suggest a fix for this over supply(excess voltage?) situation???? Thanks, Fraze

[Blacky]

Maybe an isolation transformer ? 12 volt in - 12 volt out , a mob like Bogaard may be able to supply ????

[In the Shed]

G’day Fraze

You could try one of these, buck converter module.

I used a similar unit to run a 12 v led headlight globe on my motorcycle that was only 6 volt. In your case you just need a stable 12 v supply (output from converter) to power your camera regardless of the input voltage which varies depending on car charging system. Can’t remember if you run a genny or alternator.

Just double check the current draw of your camera to make sure you don’t exceed current rating of buck module unit.

Regards
Stephen

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/13244682604 ... R7yVy8eyYQ

[Dr Terry]

What ignition leads are you running ? If they are wire leads, that could be the issue.

The main reason modern suppression leads were introduced was to reduce RFI (radio frequency interference) which appears to be what your problem might be.

Dr Terry

[Blacky]

What ignition leads are you running ? If they are wire leads, that could be the issue.

The main reason modern suppression leads were introduced was to reduce RFI (radio frequency interference) which appears to be what your problem might be.

Dr Terry

So a simple test would be switch the engine off and see if the picture quality improves ???

[Dr Terry]

What ignition leads are you running ? If they are wire leads, that could be the issue.

The main reason modern suppression leads were introduced was to reduce RFI (radio frequency interference) which appears to be what your problem might be.

Dr Terry

So a simple test would be switch the engine off and see if the picture quality improves ???

But he said it only occurred when he revved the engine. From that I assumed it was OK at idle.

Dr Terry

[ardiesse]

Fraze,

Because the camera runs fine from a separate battery with the engine running, you've determined that the problem is not radiated RFI, but conducted interference from the car's B+. You need a line filter. I thought there'd be a 12-V version, but there ain't.

The best I can come up with is the Jaycar MS-4001 line filter. It's designed for the mains, but you can use it for a 12-V application. Connect the 12 V supply and return to the "LINE" terminals; connect the camera to the "LOAD" terminals (the right way around, of course), and leave the centre LOAD pin floating.

See how you go. Otherwise, Stephen's suggestion of a converter module is worth trying.

Rob

[fraze]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I have solved the problem. Something I should have done in the first place, especially after I proved per Rob’s advice, that the problem was excess voltage. I measured the voltage going to the battery and found that I was getting nearly 13 V at idle and 14.4 V at 1500 rpm. That is on the high side of acceptable according to the manual but too much for the camera. I reduced the voltage via the adjusting screw in the regulator to just over 12V at idle and 13.5V at 1500 rpm. Again still in spec according to the manual. It only took 1/3 turn and now the camera works great!!!

[Blacky]

Happy days

[FireKraka]

Well done Fraze great to sort out those little problems that just bug the shit out of you.