BEST GASKET CEMENTS

[FJWALLY]

Apologies if this exists somewhere but what are the guru's recommendations for Gasket cements in different locations.

Ive just about given up on the cork gaskets as they are very poros and oil continues to pee out - especially from the side plates so I think I will pull it off and replace the cork with a dry one and apply liberal qty's of gasket cement but whats the recommendations?
I'm leaning towards Permatex RT Ultra black with the high oil resistance but is that be best option as i dont want to do this again but it has to be done

[Harv]

Permatex aviation form-a-gasket. It seals well, and doesn't become a shit-show if you need to later remove it (I've had to remove my share of over-enthusiastic silicon sealers as punishment for using them when I was younger).

Cheers,
Harv

[ardiesse]

Rob,

Has your cylinder head or block been shaved? You want to check that the screw holes line up, and that the cover doesn't "bottom" on the distributor/engine no. pad.

But I think your pushrod cover will be dimpled at the screw holes. The first thing to do is tap down on the screw holes from the inside of the cover with the ball of a ball-pein hammer. You want the ribs to stick out further than the screw holes. You have an alloy rocker cover so you don't have to worry about the flange of the rocker cover interfering with the top of the pushrod cover.

I use Permatex No. 4 (hardening) to glue the gasket and the spark-plug corks to the cover, and then wipe a very thin smear of grease on the mating faces of block and head. Overtightening the screws, particularly the corner ones, is fatal.

The final (well, first) check is to ensure that the gasket hasn't shrunk. Old-school cork gaskets could be steamed to swell them; but I don't think you can steam the cork-rubber composition gaskets.

Rob

[FJWALLY]

Permatex aviation form-a-gasket. It seals well, and doesn't become a shit-show if you need to later remove it (I've had to remove my share of over-enthusiastic silicon sealers as punishment for using them when I was younger).

Cheers,
Harv

Do you still use the cork as well Harv?


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[FJWALLY]

Rob,

Has your cylinder head or block been shaved? You want to check that the screw holes line up, and that the cover doesn't "bottom" on the distributor/engine no. pad.

But I think your pushrod cover will be dimpled at the screw holes. The first thing to do is tap down on the screw holes from the inside of the cover with the ball of a ball-pein hammer. You want the ribs to stick out further than the screw holes. You have an alloy rocker cover so you don't have to worry about the flange of the rocker cover interfering with the top of the pushrod cover.

I use Permatex No. 4 (hardening) to glue the gasket and the spark-plug corks to the cover, and then wipe a very thin smear of grease on the mating faces of block and head. Overtightening the screws, particularly the corner ones, is fatal.

The final (well, first) check is to ensure that the gasket hasn't shrunk. Old-school cork gaskets could be steamed to swell them; but I don't think you can steam the cork-rubber composition gaskets.

Rob

Thanks Rob - I will check those things out


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[Harv]

Cork is great, but Rob is right. Spend some time tin-smithing things back to true (thats what screwdrivers and ballpein hammers are for ), and resist the overwhelming temptation to tighten them right up.

Cheers,
Harv

[FJWALLY]

I do have an alloy side cover but heard they were better wall decoration than practical parts


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[ardiesse]

One more thought -

If your head gasket protrudes beyond the mating plane of head and block, cut the excess off with a sharp knife; and if it doesn't fill the gap, use a smear of Silastic.

Rob

[FJWALLY]

One more thought -

If your head gasket protrudes beyond the mating plane of head and block, cut the excess off with a sharp knife; and if it doesn't fill the gap, use a smear of Silastic.

Rob

Seams to be back bottom corner is the worst


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[ardiesse]

. . . always is. Actually, that's the place to start installing the pushrod cover from, with rag wadded in the distributor hole. Do you have three hex-head screws for the rear of the cover?

Have to ask this, though - in what condition's the distributor O-ring?

Rob

[FJWALLY]

. . . always is. Actually, that's the place to start installing the pushrod cover from, with rag wadded in the distributor hole. Do you have three hex-head screws for the rear of the cover?

Have to ask this, though - in what condition's the distributor O-ring?

Rob

By hex head do you mean normal bolts rather than the slotted screws?
Havent had dizzy out so unsure but oil is up higher also so sideplate still an issue - maybe I wait until I do the magneto install


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[ardiesse]

The motors used to be fitted with three 7/16" AF (1/4"-20) bolts with screwdriver slots in the heads at the rear of the pushrod cover, where there's just about no room to get even a stumpy screwdriver in. Red motor rocker cover bolts with flat washers would do the trick, even though 3/8" AF.

Rob

[basic.green]

just a thought that now you have boost can your engine breath.. not getting pressure and pushing oil out

[Harv]

Shouldn't make much difference.

Beside, it's barely seen any huff yet. I'm sending Blacky over to tie a brick to Wally's right foot

Cheers,
Harv

[Blacky]

Shouldn't make much difference.

Beside, it's barely seen any huff yet. I'm sending Blacky over to tie a brick to Wally's right foot

Cheers,
Harv

'm already halfway there , in SA at the moment for work