Have no clue
- Fishyweare
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Have no clue
Last week i picked up the grey motor with still a large real oil leak after a week reckon I lost about half sump of oil so far and have only travelled about 30 K's rest have been running in she'd every afternoon trying to get these twin carbs sorted back carb had no suction tried my spare still the same then borrowed some of Finny which was better ,the problem when I take it for a test drive it pops and farts as if it's to lean , checked timing again it's within range new points plenty of spark adjust mixture screws have tried 7/8 of a turn then 1 then 1 1/2 still the same, plenty of fuel to the carbs.
This afternoon I took the twins off and put the single manifold back on with what I know to be a good carb checked timing again all good adjust mixture screw take it for a drive and the same thing pops and misses and carries on check valve clearances thinking that valve not closing fully seem fine.
Decided to remove new points and put an old set of partially surface rusted set I had sitting in an dizzy , reset timing all good decided to just leave at tdc take it for drive it's better about 50 % better adjust timing a bit more it's barely drivable real slow to get to higher revs but popping etc has gone.
I can't think of anything else to try .
Taking car back to motor builder tomorrow on a trailer .
Dropping twin carbs in to get reco as well I have kitted them myself but just want to rule everything out .
Next weekend I am suppose to drive the car back to Canbera for my son ,it's not looking promising .
Interested in your thoughts .
The motor is a grey just had its first bore and crank grind ,head work done big valves etc mild sports cam and lighten and balanced flywheel .
I was really expecting to fit the motor and turn the key , but I guess not ,feeling real disappointed and gutted with no clue on what the problem is.
This afternoon I took the twins off and put the single manifold back on with what I know to be a good carb checked timing again all good adjust mixture screw take it for a drive and the same thing pops and misses and carries on check valve clearances thinking that valve not closing fully seem fine.
Decided to remove new points and put an old set of partially surface rusted set I had sitting in an dizzy , reset timing all good decided to just leave at tdc take it for drive it's better about 50 % better adjust timing a bit more it's barely drivable real slow to get to higher revs but popping etc has gone.
I can't think of anything else to try .
Taking car back to motor builder tomorrow on a trailer .
Dropping twin carbs in to get reco as well I have kitted them myself but just want to rule everything out .
Next weekend I am suppose to drive the car back to Canbera for my son ,it's not looking promising .
Interested in your thoughts .
The motor is a grey just had its first bore and crank grind ,head work done big valves etc mild sports cam and lighten and balanced flywheel .
I was really expecting to fit the motor and turn the key , but I guess not ,feeling real disappointed and gutted with no clue on what the problem is.
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Re: Have no clue
I guess you have to start eliminating stuff. Ive had brand new plugs etc not work right.
Change the dissy cap and rotor button.
Ive found the majority of the time ignition is the culprit not carbs.
Change the dissy cap and rotor button.
Ive found the majority of the time ignition is the culprit not carbs.
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Re: Have no clue
Just re read your post. Could the cam timing be out by one tooth?
- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
If so would the dizzy still be lined up tdc , the rotor points aprox at 8 o'clock when pointing to number 1 .bootlegger wrote:Just re read your post. Could the cam timing be out by one tooth?
I do believe that there is something not right maybe it is the cam
- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
SunnyTim wrote:Who was the engine builder. ...wasn't around Alderley way?
I agree with Bootlegger work on spark amd timing - sometimes the steel ball on the flywheel has been marked wrong - easiest way to tell for sure is by pulling the tappet cover off and seeing if either no 1 or 6 ctlinder is rocking (in between one valve coming up and the other valve going down.)
As the others have said from there you will have to pull the front timing cover off and check the two dots on the crank and cam gear line up. I don't think it will get to this though.....Tim
Yes it was around Alderley Should I be concerned?
Do you think it might have too much spark ?
It did have an electronic pertronix with one of those flame thrower coils the coil is still in the car do you too much volts
- Craig Allardyce
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Re: Have no clue
You should be able to check cam timing without pulling the front cover. If you know someone with a dial indicator it cam be checked by taken height (cam lift) measurements off the valve or tappet adjuster in relation to various crank positions. I don't have the book handy as I'm at work but I' pretty sure there is a procedure in the workshop manual.
Can you give some more detail of when it "pops & farts"? Is it when your cruising, accelerating, cruising under load, decelerating? Does it start ok?
By the sounds of it you might have issues with your ignition and something else. Try setting the ignition timing by hand, rotate the dissy till you get the highest possible idle, road test (it will most likely ping under load), then gradually retard the timing in steps till the pinging is gone. You'll find that your probably needing a little more advance than what the initial factory setting is. I would also run a bout a 58 main jet in the single carby to eliminate any lean out issues under acceleration and this should compensate for the head and cam work a little.
If acceleration is still slow I'd be checking cam timing.
Can you give some more detail of when it "pops & farts"? Is it when your cruising, accelerating, cruising under load, decelerating? Does it start ok?
By the sounds of it you might have issues with your ignition and something else. Try setting the ignition timing by hand, rotate the dissy till you get the highest possible idle, road test (it will most likely ping under load), then gradually retard the timing in steps till the pinging is gone. You'll find that your probably needing a little more advance than what the initial factory setting is. I would also run a bout a 58 main jet in the single carby to eliminate any lean out issues under acceleration and this should compensate for the head and cam work a little.
If acceleration is still slow I'd be checking cam timing.
- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
Craig Allardyce wrote:You should be able to check cam timing without pulling the front cover. If you know someone with a dial indicator it cam be checked by taken height (cam lift) measurements off the valve or tappet adjuster in relation to various crank positions. I don't have the book handy as I'm at work but I' pretty sure there is a procedure in the workshop manual.
Can you give some more detail of when it "pops & farts"? Is it when your cruising, accelerating, cruising under load, decelerating? Does it start ok?
By the sounds of it you might have issues with your ignition and something else. Try setting the ignition timing by hand, rotate the dissy till you get the highest possible idle, road test (it will most likely ping under load), then gradually retard the timing in steps till the pinging is gone. You'll find that your probably needing a little more advance than what the initial factory setting is. I would also run a bout a 58 main jet in the single carby to eliminate any lean out issues under acceleration and this should compensate for the head and cam work a little.
If acceleration is still slow I'd be checking cam timing.
Craig as soon as you accelerate it pops and farts tried couple of quick squirts with throttle same thing comes good when you take foot of peddle .
It's going back to motor builder this morning regarding major oil leak to rear and going to get him to go right back thru it
Cheers
Paul
Once I get it back then I will put the reco carbs on which I am dropping off today then back to him to balance the carbs on car .
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Re: Have no clue
Paul I've read the other comments and all good points,Fishyweare wrote:Craig Allardyce wrote:You should be able to check cam timing without pulling the front cover. If you know someone with a dial indicator it cam be checked by taken height (cam lift) measurements off the valve or tappet adjuster in relation to various crank positions. I don't have the book handy as I'm at work but I' pretty sure there is a procedure in the workshop manual.
Can you give some more detail of when it "pops & farts"? Is it when your cruising, accelerating, cruising under load, decelerating? Does it start ok?
By the sounds of it you might have issues with your ignition and something else. Try setting the ignition timing by hand, rotate the dissy till you get the highest possible idle, road test (it will most likely ping under load), then gradually retard the timing in steps till the pinging is gone. You'll find that your probably needing a little more advance than what the initial factory setting is. I would also run a bout a 58 main jet in the single carby to eliminate any lean out issues under acceleration and this should compensate for the head and cam work a little.
If acceleration is still slow I'd be checking cam timing.
Craig as soon as you accelerate it pops and farts tried couple of quick squirts with throttle same thing comes good when you take foot of peddle .
It's going back to motor builder this morning regarding major oil leak to rear and going to get him to go right back thru it
Cheers
Paul
Once I get it back then I will put the reco carbs on which I am dropping off today then back to him to balance the carbs on car .
I think you are doing the right thing to take it back before going any further so your mechanic can see/hear for himself what the problem is. You've obviously paid good money for a rebuilt motor and it shouldn't be giving you this much grief.
Mick

- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
When back to builder this morning could hardly get it onto the trailer definitely timing I believe farted and carried on got to the stage even idling on the trailer was bad echoing off the floor looked under car and muffler was starting to suck in each time she popped .
There going through it on Monday so will know more then I hope .
Cheers
Paul
There going through it on Monday so will know more then I hope .
Cheers
Paul
- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
Update car has been back to motor builder they have been right through it still can't get it to run properly .
Checked valves all good
compression all good
Timing correct
Changed dizzy cap
Installed electronic ignition no difference.
Will check vacuum advance tomorrow as I have found it runs better when fully advanced turned right around with vacuum hard up against the block starts first go and idles but when you throttle on burps and farts so maybe vacuum advance is shot have checked my spare one and it is shot not pulling arm back when sucking on it so the one in the car could be shot as well.
So picking up a new one tomorrow to rule that out .
Then if that dosn't fix the problem will try new coil , cap and leads.
And to make things worst my new exhaust system with all this farting and popping the muffler has collapsed , haven't even driven the car more then 30 klms
What a nightmare .
Cheers
Paul
Checked valves all good
compression all good
Timing correct
Changed dizzy cap
Installed electronic ignition no difference.
Will check vacuum advance tomorrow as I have found it runs better when fully advanced turned right around with vacuum hard up against the block starts first go and idles but when you throttle on burps and farts so maybe vacuum advance is shot have checked my spare one and it is shot not pulling arm back when sucking on it so the one in the car could be shot as well.
So picking up a new one tomorrow to rule that out .
Then if that dosn't fix the problem will try new coil , cap and leads.
And to make things worst my new exhaust system with all this farting and popping the muffler has collapsed , haven't even driven the car more then 30 klms
What a nightmare .
Cheers
Paul
- Craig Allardyce
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Re: Have no clue
Mate, how old is the muffler??? Maybe its had a baffle plate let go and its blocking the outlet. You could be experiencing a lot of backpressure on the engine. Try running it with the engine disconnected.
- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
Craig brand spanking new 2 1/2 inch sports system noticed on Saturday when putting it on the trailer it let go then had a look underneath and muffler was sucking in and out so the baffle has collapsed less then 30 klms of use.Craig Allardyce wrote:Mate, how old is the muffler??? Maybe its had a baffle plate let go and its blocking the outlet. You could be experiencing a lot of backpressure on the engine. Try running it with the engine disconnected.
Cheers
Paul.
Re: Have no clue
Have you checked the 'pigtail' wire is intact in the dizzy?
roto
roto
- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
Yes intact and weights are working correctly.roto wrote:Have you checked the 'pigtail' wire is intact in the dizzy?
roto
- Fishyweare
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Re: Have no clue
Will check this ArvoSunnyTim wrote:Can you check if the steel ball on the flywheel is showing when no 1 or 6 cylinder is 'rocking' I.e. im between inlet and exhaust cycle. This will rule out the cam and crank gears not being aligned. Rule this out and start on externals.....
Going to trailer car home this Arvo