Hey guys
I've been having a few troubles with the ol' girl over the last few weeks and just when I tought I'd solved the problem, it started right back up again. I thought maybe someone here might be able to offer any ideas.
About 3 weeks ago, the car started to falter and miss on my way to work. Got there ok though and went on my merry way. that night however i only got about 50 metres before the car started missing again and with one final jerk, konked out.
I checked (in the dark) the dizzy, leads, battery etc but couldn't seem to get anything more than a rough idle. Ended up being towed home and there she sat.
At first i checked for fuel supply problems. Cleaned the fuel pump and carby and all was well. On closer inspection of the dizzy though, we found a very small crack and traces or carbon on the cap and the coil, that seemed to indicate an earthing problem.
We changed the coil to an aftermarkey Bosch, popped new leads on, new dizzy cap, re-conditioned the dizzy as there was a few very worn wires etc. When everything was pieced back together, the car ran perfectly so I figured we'd found our problem. Re-tuned the carb, set the timing and away she went.
I only just got it home last night, after spending a week having seatbelts fitted and new springs front and rear, and on the way home from work tonight it started doing exactly the same thing. I just managed to get her home and into the shed before 'kaput'.
So now I'm bamboozled. Just about everything that seemed worn/tired/suss was replaced and she was running fine.
If it helps, I'm running all original gear (except the recent aftermarket coil etc) with a 3 speed crashie.
The exhaust is original and is pretty much rusted right throughout...could that cause these sorts of issues. I've already had her booked in once to have a new stainless system installed (cancelled due to being off the road), and was planning on booking it again for next week.
Any ideas??
Cheers, Scott
Troubles under load
Hi Scott.
Hard to diagnose with out sticking my head under your bonnet. Sounds like you've replaced everything on the ignition side (did you replace the rotor button)so assuming the ignition is working ok you might have to look on the fuel supply side.
There could be a mountain of different things so you just have to eliminate them one by one.
Have a look at the condition of the rubber hose connecting the fuel pump to the steel fuel line (which runs to the tank). It only takes the smallest of cracks/pinholes and the fuel pump will suck air and give you trouble.Also check the condition of the fuel pump glass bowl gasket.Is it sucking air there?
Is or has the tank been cleaned? If the tank is dirty or has condensation (water) rolling around inside it then eventually this will make its way to your carby and cause problems.A cleaned carby will only stay clean if the fuel coming in is clean.
Maybe take the top of the carby off and see how clean it looks in there.Check float and make sure the fuel is the correct level in the bowl.
Take the positive wire off the coil so the coil won't spark and hold the float down to the bottom of the bowl.Get someone to crank the starter and see if the needle valve is allowing fuel in. Be carefull............however......fuel,sparks and BANG!!
Try these and see how you go...............other members might offer other ideas as well.
There could be other things but you have to start somewhere.
Let us know how you go,
Terry.
Hard to diagnose with out sticking my head under your bonnet. Sounds like you've replaced everything on the ignition side (did you replace the rotor button)so assuming the ignition is working ok you might have to look on the fuel supply side.
There could be a mountain of different things so you just have to eliminate them one by one.
Have a look at the condition of the rubber hose connecting the fuel pump to the steel fuel line (which runs to the tank). It only takes the smallest of cracks/pinholes and the fuel pump will suck air and give you trouble.Also check the condition of the fuel pump glass bowl gasket.Is it sucking air there?
Is or has the tank been cleaned? If the tank is dirty or has condensation (water) rolling around inside it then eventually this will make its way to your carby and cause problems.A cleaned carby will only stay clean if the fuel coming in is clean.
Maybe take the top of the carby off and see how clean it looks in there.Check float and make sure the fuel is the correct level in the bowl.
Take the positive wire off the coil so the coil won't spark and hold the float down to the bottom of the bowl.Get someone to crank the starter and see if the needle valve is allowing fuel in. Be carefull............however......fuel,sparks and BANG!!
Try these and see how you go...............other members might offer other ideas as well.
There could be other things but you have to start somewhere.
Let us know how you go,
Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Just thought of something else. Did you replace the condenser on the side of the distributor??. These little buggers can cause all sorts of problems including what you described and they are often overlooked when trying to fix an ignition problem.
Terry.
Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
troubles under load
Replace the braided fuel line
I had exactly the same problem two years ago and that's what is was
when I took the line off yes it was not blocked but the fuel pump would suck it shut due to the fact that the rubber had lost it's ridgity and the years of fuel through it had softened it.
yes it would run at idle and just a little bit above but any more and she would shut down.
if you are stuck and in Sydney I have a spare fuel line.
I have radiator problems at the momemnt and am not mobile
I had exactly the same problem two years ago and that's what is was
when I took the line off yes it was not blocked but the fuel pump would suck it shut due to the fact that the rubber had lost it's ridgity and the years of fuel through it had softened it.
yes it would run at idle and just a little bit above but any more and she would shut down.
if you are stuck and in Sydney I have a spare fuel line.
I have radiator problems at the momemnt and am not mobile
Hey, thanks for the replys.
Trev...I thought the same thing about the wiring. It all LOOKS ok, but we all know how deceiving looks can be. If I don't have any luck this weekend, I'll get an auto sparky to have a look.
FBMAD...The fuel hose looks ok, but I'm going to replace it anyway just in case this is the problem (only cost a few bucks to find out). The fuel pump itself is perfect - gave it a clean up anyway while we were at it and replaced gasket. The carb is clean as a whistle and everything is operating exactly as it should be. Levels are spot on. I haven't had the tank cleaned mself but have decided it might be worth doing seeing as I've only just bought the car. Can't hurt to know that it's been cleaned out.
Condensor was replaced, along with all wires, as there was evidence of arcing.
Lucy Blue...hmmm, as mentioned before, I'm going to replace the fuel line this weekend. While we checked to see that fuel was flowing smoothly through the pump, and looked for any leaks/pinholes, we didn't consider the age/rigidity. I'm hoping it may be as simple as that. That may make sense too as the problem only seems to happen under load when there would be more pressure placed on the line. Cheers for the offer of help, but I'm in Brissie.
I'll let you know how I go.
Thanks again guys.
Cheers, Scott
Trev...I thought the same thing about the wiring. It all LOOKS ok, but we all know how deceiving looks can be. If I don't have any luck this weekend, I'll get an auto sparky to have a look.
FBMAD...The fuel hose looks ok, but I'm going to replace it anyway just in case this is the problem (only cost a few bucks to find out). The fuel pump itself is perfect - gave it a clean up anyway while we were at it and replaced gasket. The carb is clean as a whistle and everything is operating exactly as it should be. Levels are spot on. I haven't had the tank cleaned mself but have decided it might be worth doing seeing as I've only just bought the car. Can't hurt to know that it's been cleaned out.
Condensor was replaced, along with all wires, as there was evidence of arcing.
Lucy Blue...hmmm, as mentioned before, I'm going to replace the fuel line this weekend. While we checked to see that fuel was flowing smoothly through the pump, and looked for any leaks/pinholes, we didn't consider the age/rigidity. I'm hoping it may be as simple as that. That may make sense too as the problem only seems to happen under load when there would be more pressure placed on the line. Cheers for the offer of help, but I'm in Brissie.
I'll let you know how I go.
Thanks again guys.
Cheers, Scott
One more piece of info that may or may not provide clues...
When I was driving home, just before the car started faltering, I could hear a strange noise (very faintly) that I'd never experienced before. It seemed to be coming from under the dash and only happened when I went over bumps or uneven surface.
To my ears, it sounded like the noise of a coiled spring or piece of wire being let go after held tense/coiled - kinda like the sound of a spring letting go on one of those really old metal wind-up toys or toy-soldiers...hope that makes sense...lol.
After thinking more about it, I wonder if it may have come from the dizzy...would the contact breaker return spring make a noise like that if it was malfunctioning? If so, could it mean the points weren't closing/opening correctly?
Just a thought...if anyone recognises what this sound might have been, I'd be keen to hear it.
Probably won't be able to get under the bonnet until tomorrow now.
Cheers, Scott
When I was driving home, just before the car started faltering, I could hear a strange noise (very faintly) that I'd never experienced before. It seemed to be coming from under the dash and only happened when I went over bumps or uneven surface.
To my ears, it sounded like the noise of a coiled spring or piece of wire being let go after held tense/coiled - kinda like the sound of a spring letting go on one of those really old metal wind-up toys or toy-soldiers...hope that makes sense...lol.
After thinking more about it, I wonder if it may have come from the dizzy...would the contact breaker return spring make a noise like that if it was malfunctioning? If so, could it mean the points weren't closing/opening correctly?
Just a thought...if anyone recognises what this sound might have been, I'd be keen to hear it.
Probably won't be able to get under the bonnet until tomorrow now.
Cheers, Scott
-
smooth
Couple of thoughts:
Make 100% sure the fuel cap breather hole is clear. The car will drive a short distance before failing under load. (test with low level fuel and cap off)
Make sure you are using the correct coil "resisted vs non resisted" over heating coil can cause similar effects after a short drive. (put you hand on it and feel the heat)
Make sure the "resistance" wire to the ignition switch is connected and not shortened or added too. The length is calibrated for resistance.
Regards, Smooth
Make 100% sure the fuel cap breather hole is clear. The car will drive a short distance before failing under load. (test with low level fuel and cap off)
Make sure you are using the correct coil "resisted vs non resisted" over heating coil can cause similar effects after a short drive. (put you hand on it and feel the heat)
Make sure the "resistance" wire to the ignition switch is connected and not shortened or added too. The length is calibrated for resistance.
Regards, Smooth
Smooth - coil is correct and resistance wire I've been told is also good.
This morning I put a fuel filter in the line and changed the braided hose but that made no difference.
So I pulled the carby again and completely disassembled. No blockages but it looks like there may have been traces of water in the bowl. it's now been completely cleaned and is ready to go back on the car.
Next step is to drain the fuel tank and clean it out - I want to make sure that we're starting with clean fuel and a clean tank.
After that I'll fire her up and see how we go. Fingers crossed.
This morning I put a fuel filter in the line and changed the braided hose but that made no difference.
So I pulled the carby again and completely disassembled. No blockages but it looks like there may have been traces of water in the bowl. it's now been completely cleaned and is ready to go back on the car.
Next step is to drain the fuel tank and clean it out - I want to make sure that we're starting with clean fuel and a clean tank.
After that I'll fire her up and see how we go. Fingers crossed.
Bingo (touch wood...*looks around frantically*...lol!)
Well, I drained the tank and flushed it out twice...hopped in, started her up and...woo hoo purring like a kitten again!!! All my tinkering with the carbs etc though has put her slightly out of tune so I'll get to that next.
I'm 99% certain it was water that had found it's way into the fuel lines and carb, blocking the main jet on load. Whether the water came from the bowser or was condensation in the car's fuel system itself I guess I'll never know for sure.
Does anyone have any secrets they want to share about avoiding water/condensation in fuel tanks??
cheers, Scott
Well, I drained the tank and flushed it out twice...hopped in, started her up and...woo hoo purring like a kitten again!!! All my tinkering with the carbs etc though has put her slightly out of tune so I'll get to that next.
I'm 99% certain it was water that had found it's way into the fuel lines and carb, blocking the main jet on load. Whether the water came from the bowser or was condensation in the car's fuel system itself I guess I'll never know for sure.
Does anyone have any secrets they want to share about avoiding water/condensation in fuel tanks??
cheers, Scott
trobles under load
check the fuel pump