just a quick question, i want to lift my tailshaft hump as through my experience this is the first thing that always fouls first and im already 4inchs lower then standard and want to go another 2. (if anyone else has gone 6 inchs lower all up could you please let me no of anything you had to do).
i only want to lift the hump upto the top of the middle hump (the one im talking about is the one that goes from the b-pillar across to the other b-pillar i think)
the main things im wondering is if ill have to mod the seats, and the vinyl floor (i will be geting a new one) will i have to get a custom carpet or vinyl floor?
any help is appreciated
cheers matty
Not real sure what rear end setup you are using nor what body mods you plan on but at 6 inch lowered at the bum you would be riding on, or very near riding on, the rear bump rubber and even if you shortened the bump rubber ( which is illegal to do in NSW) you still wouldn't get much,if any, suspension travel.
And I doubt very much whether an engineer or a rego inspector would be happy with a bum scrubbing rear end like that.
i've had them pretty much diff to body no bump stops the only tailshaft rubbing i had was to the very rear, so you might get away with just raising the floor in the hump section under the seat, saying this wagons seem to be worse for it than sedans
You can fit wedges under you spring sadles to change the pinion angle, increase it more at the rear, to drop the front pinion down a little. The net amount won't cause uni trouble or vibration. I did this to my EK and Eh which were both reverse spring eyed and lowering blocked as well. As with Rat mentioned my hit under the rear back seat area, where I tossed the bump mounts over the left shoulder, Hey! I was young and stupid back then, and didn't really care how safe the car was just as long as it looked good.
the wedges might work, i had bad problems with breaking uni's, i did a 1 foot long cut at the rear of the tunnel and opened it to about 1" wide at the back and welded a strip in, i worked out i had lowered the car about 5" i am sure superpro make a shorter bump stop that is almost black (dark blue) and from a glance it looks natural in there but i dont know how long it will last, those superpro rubbers break much easier than nolathane.
to go 6" you might need to notch the rail or something.
if you really want to dump it EKK00l has a new tunnel welded in and a few other tricks to get it low but its much more mucking around.
anyway it was the last foot at the rear under the back seat of the tunnel on mine were all the paint was rubbed of from the tailshaft hitting
another way to get a low look is to buy some 60" lakespipes and be carefull not to crush them.
i had air shocks and a compressor and a valve in the dash just so i could get into the driveway and make it through the maccas carpark near were i used to cruise.
make sure your brake line has good clearance everywere.
thanx for the replys guys
oldnek, im not sure what your gettin at with the wedges, im better with pics, if you could post a pick of where your talkin about that would be much appreciated
fccool and ratbox thanx for the advice on the tailshaft hump ill definitly do that
and i no off the lakeside pipes but never considered them, do you no where i could get some?
cheers matty
matchew wrote:thanx for the replys guys
oldnek, im not sure what your gettin at with the wedges, im better with pics, if you could post a pick of where your talkin about that would be much appreciated
fccool and ratbox thanx for the advice on the tailshaft hump ill definitly do that
If your going to do that then there is no need for pics, but if your curious I'll try to find some.
well yes and no if you no what i mean, im sgoing to raise the tail shaft hump but i was thinkin your idea could get my tail shaft to sit straighter so im not replacing that rubber were the tailshaft goes into the gearbox every two weeks haha
and i also thought it would put less strain on the unis because the tailshaft is straighter\but thats just what i thought the wedges would do, if they dont then dont bother with the pics as i could be wrong about what you were saying it did, and thas why i like pics better
cheers matty
matchew wrote:well yes and no if you no what i mean, im sgoing to raise the tail shaft hump but i was thinkin your idea could get my tail shaft to sit straighter so im not replacing that rubber were the tailshaft goes into the gearbox every two weeks haha
cheers matty
Matty, If your seal is constantly leaking, then you have a issue with the Yoke (could be worn) or the rear extension housing bush is worn. The other area to look into is there enough yoke going into the rear of the box. You should have around 3/4 to 1 inch of exposed yoke protrusion.
FCCOOL wrote:the wedges might work, i had bad problems with breaking uni's, i did a 1 foot long cut at the rear of the tunnel and opened it to about 1" wide at the back and welded a strip in, i worked out i had lowered the car about 5" i am sure superpro make a shorter bump stop that is almost black (dark blue) and from a glance it looks natural in there but i dont know how long it will last, those superpro rubbers break much easier than nolathane.
to go 6" you might need to notch the rail or something.
if you really want to dump it EKK00l has a new tunnel welded in and a few other tricks to get it low but its much more mucking around.
anyway it was the last foot at the rear under the back seat of the tunnel on mine were all the paint was rubbed of from the tailshaft hitting
another way to get a low look is to buy some 60" lakespipes and be carefull not to crush them.
i had air shocks and a compressor and a valve in the dash just so i could get into the driveway and make it through the maccas carpark near were i used to cruise.
make sure your brake line has good clearance everywere.
well, now ive been on the road and with the air shocks down i am getting bad rubbing further down the floor just near were i opened it, i might need some wedgeys, i must have used bigger lowering blocks when i put the rear back together than i had before, i might also take out the rubbers.
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