V8EK4us- 383 SBC,4 link,Torana f/e - 12 months on...
I've done the same many years agoEK283 wrote:I think if I had my time again and I didnt have the carbys and throttle body injection sitting on the shelf I definately would go Chev tuned port injection.
If you come across a complete engine say out of a corvette or the likes even better. Good fuel economy nice and powerfull on pump gas and looks the part as well.
It will fit under the bonnet and you can drive everyday.
Ive had my fair share of strong motors and you do get sick of the thirst and unreliability.Nothing worse than building motors when you could be driving around all the time.
Regards Greg


I have thought of the injected 5.7 out of a commodore and putting a CAPA Supercharger kit on it .... would be ultra reliable, economical (when driven correctly) and have buckets of giddy-up!! Only thing missing is the Ol' Skool look, but I'm hearing your thoughts. Thanks for the input, much appretiated.
Ooooooohhhhhh!! I have not done this before and I've gotta stop myself from writting what just come into my head as an answer for your comment on the big balls bit ..... something about a chin, bruises and my missusEK283 wrote:V8EK4US,
Its obvious at this point that you've done this sort of thing before or you've just got big balls and dont mind experimenting.![]()
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Does the 4 link set up allow for axle articulation you know left wheel up right down and vice versa if so how much?
Apparently the 4 link is great for straight line work but dosen't cut it when cornering at high speed, any thoughts?
I love your ferosity, it certainly keeps me inspired.
Regards Greg










The way it will be set up (when finished) it should handle very well, the 4 link does allow reasonable movement but the car will be reasonably tied up with a large custom made swaybar, gas coilover/adjustable shocks and a full side to side Panard rod (set horizontal). To add to this I am running a Gardner conversions frontend which is also fitted with a large custom made swaybar and gas coilover/adjustable shocks.
The idea behind the 4 link is to run the bars parallel for road use (cornering and handling, then if you want to stir them up at the strip you can lower the front of the top bar so the top and bottom bars intersect at approx 1m in front of the diff, this drives the wheels to the ground under hard acceleration, the down side is due to the Triangulated bar setup created by doing this it makes it more difficult for the wheels to move independantly.....did I explain that right or is it mass confusion??


I thought about that myself, but when you think about it, Gary's mobile will be that quick he'll have enough time to slow down for corners.EK283 wrote:V8EK4US,
Its obvious at this point that you've done this sort of thing before or you've just got big balls and dont mind experimenting.![]()
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Does the 4 link set up allow for axle articulation you know left wheel up right down and vice versa if so how much?
Apparently the 4 link is great for straight line work but dosen't cut it when cornering at high speed, any thoughts?



There's nothing as Sweet as a EK V8
Explained perfectly
We started using four link and five link rear ends in V8 Supercars 15 years ago. They allow so much adjustment and give impecable handling when set up correctly. Have you thought about a Watts link instead of a panhard bar, will give more even travel side to side.
Unbelievable build as mentioned in an earlier post. Keep up the great work.
Kind regards,
Steve
We started using four link and five link rear ends in V8 Supercars 15 years ago. They allow so much adjustment and give impecable handling when set up correctly. Have you thought about a Watts link instead of a panhard bar, will give more even travel side to side.
Unbelievable build as mentioned in an earlier post. Keep up the great work.
Kind regards,
Steve
EKISOK. So much work, So little time !!!!!
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Hope everyone had a good weekend!
John, Steve, Mick & Rosco, thanks for the feedback guys
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I got the diff out of the SS this morning and stripped it, cut it, and tacked her up for a prefit. Had to take 404mm off the overall length to allow for rim width and offset. Very happy 'cause it fits
, still need to fit panard (or Watts link, restricted with room for the watts) need to machine up two sleeves for each side (to isert into housing prior to fully welding) then should be ok. The bearing ends have been rotated to bring the disc calipers further away from the chassis rail to make sure there is no chance of fowling during full suspension travel.







John, Steve, Mick & Rosco, thanks for the feedback guys



I got the diff out of the SS this morning and stripped it, cut it, and tacked her up for a prefit. Had to take 404mm off the overall length to allow for rim width and offset. Very happy 'cause it fits










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V8EK4us,
Love the work!!
Hope you dont mind the questions????????
I am looking at the brake calipers wondering if they will be ok Upside down????? Will you be using billet axles????
Will the diff cope??????
I ran a panhard rod on my racecar (leaf springs) and got oversteer one way and understeer the other because the panhard has a push pull effect. When I installed the watts link it steers the same with oversteer that is very predictable and easy to control with the throttle.
It really outperforms any other type of locating arm or rod.
Mate you need to slow down !!!!!!!!!
Regards Greg
Love the work!!
Hope you dont mind the questions????????
I am looking at the brake calipers wondering if they will be ok Upside down????? Will you be using billet axles????
Will the diff cope??????
I ran a panhard rod on my racecar (leaf springs) and got oversteer one way and understeer the other because the panhard has a push pull effect. When I installed the watts link it steers the same with oversteer that is very predictable and easy to control with the throttle.
It really outperforms any other type of locating arm or rod.
Mate you need to slow down !!!!!!!!!




Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
Hey Gary
Panhard bars are old school. I'm with SC. A Watts linkage will keep the differential assembly central, which this car will need given the size of the rear wheels. A panhard bar, however adjusted, will always move the differential from side to side, dependent on rear suspension up and down movement.
You have put so much time and effort into this build. I am sure you can find a way.
Just my two bobs worth.
Kind regards,
Steve
Panhard bars are old school. I'm with SC. A Watts linkage will keep the differential assembly central, which this car will need given the size of the rear wheels. A panhard bar, however adjusted, will always move the differential from side to side, dependent on rear suspension up and down movement.
You have put so much time and effort into this build. I am sure you can find a way.
Just my two bobs worth.
Kind regards,
Steve
EKISOK. So much work, So little time !!!!!
Thanks Steve, your "two bobs worth" is much appretiated.
Also appretiate the confirmation on the handling of the 4 link setup to mate, cheers
.
As yourself, Smooth and Ben have indicated, and the Watts is the way to go, only "restriction" is my own need to get as much fuel in as possible as we have seriously long distances between fuel stops up here in the Territory and we intend to cruise with this ol' girl so we will need it!
I have taken all the feedback in and will run with the watts link, may have to fab it up myself to keep it compact and neat..... will check some out tomorrow and see where I end up.
Axles??? The SS axles are big (similar to 9" ffff, fffo, fffffor...you know the one!) and are larger on the shaft than the spline, this allows the ability to respline, however I am still considering Billet axles ... not convinced yet.
Will to diff cope?? Probably not!!! But I had it sitting there (in the VN SS, it is an LSD, which will probably just make it break sooner
) and it is GMH tagged "High Performance"
we will soon see how high performance it is!!!
. Nothing to lose so might as well give it a go (it keeps it all "Holden").
Also appretiate the confirmation on the handling of the 4 link setup to mate, cheers


As yourself, Smooth and Ben have indicated, and the Watts is the way to go, only "restriction" is my own need to get as much fuel in as possible as we have seriously long distances between fuel stops up here in the Territory and we intend to cruise with this ol' girl so we will need it!

I have taken all the feedback in and will run with the watts link, may have to fab it up myself to keep it compact and neat..... will check some out tomorrow and see where I end up.
Calipers were only rotated about 45 degrees (on the VN SS they were sitting vertically), this is not an issue, as the system is fully closed circuit it will operate in any position, all I have to be aware of is to make sure the Flex line is clear so it can't be damaged by being hit by something.EK283 wrote: Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 1:28 pm Post subject:
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V8EK4us,
Love the work!!
Hope you dont mind the questions????????
I am looking at the brake calipers wondering if they will be ok Upside down????? Will you be using billet axles????
Will the diff cope??????
Axles??? The SS axles are big (similar to 9" ffff, fffo, fffffor...you know the one!) and are larger on the shaft than the spline, this allows the ability to respline, however I am still considering Billet axles ... not convinced yet.
Will to diff cope?? Probably not!!! But I had it sitting there (in the VN SS, it is an LSD, which will probably just make it break sooner









Last edited by V8EK4us on Sun Jan 11, 2009 10:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.