improving headlights by conversion
Hi Jeff,
I purchased the H4 lights ($120), but now Im not sure if I like the 'flat' . I wouldn't mind buying a halogen bulb ot fit the old light as you suggested so might give it a go. If i end up staying with the flat ones I will let you know but Im defintiley trying to keep he original stuff as much as possible,
cheers,
sigs
I purchased the H4 lights ($120), but now Im not sure if I like the 'flat' . I wouldn't mind buying a halogen bulb ot fit the old light as you suggested so might give it a go. If i end up staying with the flat ones I will let you know but Im defintiley trying to keep he original stuff as much as possible,
cheers,
sigs
mmm, maybe one day :roll:
forgot
If you do the protector job, you may find that water will get in - eventually between the protectors and the H4's.
This happened to mine at the Albury nats - if I ever see the video which was taken, I would be interested to see what my flashing of the headlights looked like - they were fogged up like a dead fish's eyes............
I drilled two small holes in each of my protectors - a small one at the top (for evaporation) and a slightly larger one at the bottom (drainage) - they have not fogged since...........
I forgot to mention, if you do use high wattage halogen bulbs - please make sure you fit a relay to take the greater load - it will serve two purposes - one to prevent overloading the wiring, the other to extend the life of your lighting switch.
If you don't do either of these, at least please, please replace the blue lead from the light switch to the dip switch with a heavier gauge - this is the one which will be most susceptible.
frats,
Rosco
This happened to mine at the Albury nats - if I ever see the video which was taken, I would be interested to see what my flashing of the headlights looked like - they were fogged up like a dead fish's eyes............
I drilled two small holes in each of my protectors - a small one at the top (for evaporation) and a slightly larger one at the bottom (drainage) - they have not fogged since...........
I forgot to mention, if you do use high wattage halogen bulbs - please make sure you fit a relay to take the greater load - it will serve two purposes - one to prevent overloading the wiring, the other to extend the life of your lighting switch.
If you don't do either of these, at least please, please replace the blue lead from the light switch to the dip switch with a heavier gauge - this is the one which will be most susceptible.
frats,
Rosco
i'm sure you can/could get a curved H4's, i wonder if you could make one of those new (can't think of the name right now) real bright light conversions go into original housings, speaking of which isn't there a guy that does haloged globes for them
as for the flat surface i had H4's in the van put the cats eye covers on and you had to be right ontop of the van to notice
as for the flat surface i had H4's in the van put the cats eye covers on and you had to be right ontop of the van to notice
Hi Yeprat,
as requested I took three pix to give an indication of how the protectors alter the flat faced appearance of H4's.
They will not however give an original look, but distract attention from the flat face which I feel detracts from the look of our model........ eyes and stuff.....
One point though, they are much deeper than an original bulb lens or sealed beam.
The protectors fit between the glass lens and the chromed retainer - if you decide on doing this, I would encourage you to drill those holes I mentioned above.................
Hope these give you a true indication of how the protectors will alter the look.



frats,
Rosco
as requested I took three pix to give an indication of how the protectors alter the flat faced appearance of H4's.
They will not however give an original look, but distract attention from the flat face which I feel detracts from the look of our model........ eyes and stuff.....
One point though, they are much deeper than an original bulb lens or sealed beam.
The protectors fit between the glass lens and the chromed retainer - if you decide on doing this, I would encourage you to drill those holes I mentioned above.................
Hope these give you a true indication of how the protectors will alter the look.



frats,
Rosco
headlamp protectors
Hi Terry,
had to go deep into the logbook to find the entry..............
27/9/05 (2) Hansa 7” headlight stone guards – Burson’s Lilydale $14.44
that was a while back.
frats,
Rosco
had to go deep into the logbook to find the entry..............
27/9/05 (2) Hansa 7” headlight stone guards – Burson’s Lilydale $14.44
that was a while back.
frats,
Rosco
Hi Rosco,
I have fitted the H4s, flat lens. The improvement in seeing where i am driving is great, and im not too phased with the flat look, although i do prefer the original so might chase up the plastic covers you have.
I only just read your ppost about replacing the blue lead between light switch and the dipper switch. Guess what, too late! My dipper switch is no longer working. To get the lights to work i must hold my foo on the dipper switch and this provides me with low beam. Lucky shes a hydramatic
Anyway, i thought it was the swicth but as you mentioined maybe its the wiring?? Perhaps i should replace that first?
Sigs
I have fitted the H4s, flat lens. The improvement in seeing where i am driving is great, and im not too phased with the flat look, although i do prefer the original so might chase up the plastic covers you have.
I only just read your ppost about replacing the blue lead between light switch and the dipper switch. Guess what, too late! My dipper switch is no longer working. To get the lights to work i must hold my foo on the dipper switch and this provides me with low beam. Lucky shes a hydramatic

Anyway, i thought it was the swicth but as you mentioined maybe its the wiring?? Perhaps i should replace that first?
Sigs
mmm, maybe one day :roll: