as the title says,,,
my car when it idles runs ok when it revs up its sounds ok but when you hold it at medium revs in neutral it starts to miss and pop pop ,,,,,done points,, new plugs ,,,coil,, leads,, carby already so they arnt it
and its makeing water out the two exausts that where fitted yesterday ,,didnt do it before?????
also so i help you all think what prob mite be it aint useing water from the raidiator,,,,,,SO???
water in fuel tank pherhaps,,,,, ?????
condensation?????
popping?????
and the plugs are all looking normal to me black butt not oily or any build up,,,, could being on tilt tray mixed water in fuel and be the cause,,,and water in fuel being the prob ????
i think ive nearly answerd it for my self
what do you other antique tinker,ers, reckon
poping steam engine
poping steam engine
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
Hi Karsten,
if it isn't using coolant - it's probably the best outcome................still....
I know you would have checked this but have you had a good look at the vacuum advance? - it would have quite a bit of "draw" on it at medium revs without load...................
I don't believe it to be a valve - I feel that it would show up as a rough idle - but a compression test would flush this one out.
A new exhaust system - can't think why, but maybe there is condensation/water in the muffler............... you would be well aware that this will all clear once you get it out for a really good run...............
I can't remember having trouble with water on any occasion that I have made any changes to my system.
As for water in the tank - we FB/EK Holden people are very much at an advantage to most of the motoring world - especially modern vehicles with emission control - we have a very sneaky device known as a "tank drain plug" - many years ago, at Charlestown, NSW - a storm had filled the "standard" tank of a petrol station - I had spent $4.13 on water to fill my tank - about one mile out of the servo - the unthinkable happened with a little caravan on tow. I found a telephone and called the servo - they told me I was the second person who had trouble, the other being a Gemini on which the entire fuel/emission system had to be replaced and the tank removed from behind the rear seat.......back to my suggestion.
Let the car settle overnight - place a container under the tank and with a very good light, open the drain and watch the fluid as it comes out - if you have water in your tank this will have settled on the bottom (oil floats on water) - watching the fluid drain out you should see a distinct "change" in colour as the water is drained and pure fuel starts to flow.
These are only suggestions, Karsten - you have much experience in the field and I only offer this as advice...... hopefully others may learn from my experience back in 1977.........
By the way - if you have water in there - ditch the lot, replace the filters, blow through all pipes - expensive these days - but it's a very bumpy ride over a long period if you try to remove any water by enduring it in the system........... drain plugs - you gotta love 'em....
frats,
Rosco
if it isn't using coolant - it's probably the best outcome................still....
I know you would have checked this but have you had a good look at the vacuum advance? - it would have quite a bit of "draw" on it at medium revs without load...................
I don't believe it to be a valve - I feel that it would show up as a rough idle - but a compression test would flush this one out.
A new exhaust system - can't think why, but maybe there is condensation/water in the muffler............... you would be well aware that this will all clear once you get it out for a really good run...............
I can't remember having trouble with water on any occasion that I have made any changes to my system.
As for water in the tank - we FB/EK Holden people are very much at an advantage to most of the motoring world - especially modern vehicles with emission control - we have a very sneaky device known as a "tank drain plug" - many years ago, at Charlestown, NSW - a storm had filled the "standard" tank of a petrol station - I had spent $4.13 on water to fill my tank - about one mile out of the servo - the unthinkable happened with a little caravan on tow. I found a telephone and called the servo - they told me I was the second person who had trouble, the other being a Gemini on which the entire fuel/emission system had to be replaced and the tank removed from behind the rear seat.......back to my suggestion.
Let the car settle overnight - place a container under the tank and with a very good light, open the drain and watch the fluid as it comes out - if you have water in your tank this will have settled on the bottom (oil floats on water) - watching the fluid drain out you should see a distinct "change" in colour as the water is drained and pure fuel starts to flow.
These are only suggestions, Karsten - you have much experience in the field and I only offer this as advice...... hopefully others may learn from my experience back in 1977.........
By the way - if you have water in there - ditch the lot, replace the filters, blow through all pipes - expensive these days - but it's a very bumpy ride over a long period if you try to remove any water by enduring it in the system........... drain plugs - you gotta love 'em....
frats,
Rosco
-
hammondo
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:20 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Northern beaches - Sydney
You can also see a change in surface tension if you a watching, loosen the drain plug so it runs along the tank a bit before dripping off, when the run shrinks or dissapears you are past the water. Had to do this a few times with 4wd's that have gone too deep in river crossings. A bit 'hit and miss' but might give an extra indication as well as the colour change.rosco wrote: watching the fluid drain out you should see a distinct "change" in colour as the water is drained and pure fuel starts to flow.
strike me down, and I will become more powerful than you can possibly imagine.
Gday Karsten
Black plugs indicate the mixture is a too rich.
they should be a fawn/coffee colour.
When is it in normal driving that you hold the revs up in neutral
This is a bit like the bloke who went to the doctor, and said
"My arm really hurts when I twist it around my back"!
Doctor said, "Well dont do it then"
One thing you didn't mention is, how does it drive?
Is it OK with easy driving but misses under load?
Cheers
Jeff
Black plugs indicate the mixture is a too rich.
they should be a fawn/coffee colour.
When is it in normal driving that you hold the revs up in neutral
This is a bit like the bloke who went to the doctor, and said
"My arm really hurts when I twist it around my back"!
Doctor said, "Well dont do it then"
One thing you didn't mention is, how does it drive?
Is it OK with easy driving but misses under load?
Cheers
Jeff
yeah i didnt include a drive test cause its not register 
... so i run out of driveway before it goes into second but spins the wheels all the way in first 
i guess its 50 or 60 meters..................but it is gravel so i suppose thats not a big thing 
....and yeah i exspect a good flooging under load will clean up plugs,,,,,,i mite add that i put a little two stroke oil in fuel to lube upper cylinders with 20 l premium but it was doing it before i did put fuel in which was plane unleaded in tank,,,, and im not thinking head gasket as it showed no sign of drama when i pulled it of the road and its not loseing water from raidiator,,,,,,how do you leen the mixture ,,is that a fuel level thing with the float,,as there isnt much on this in the work shop manual,,,,
will drain tank and replace filter today see what i find
with the water out the exuast i do remember often seeing v8 fords with twin pipes dripping lots when idleing and at lights
must be the paint
gave my car bird flu or &*#@ blue disease 
... so i run out of driveway before it goes into second but spins the wheels all the way in first i guess its 50 or 60 meters..................but it is gravel so i suppose thats not a big thing ....and yeah i exspect a good flooging under load will clean up plugs,,,,,,i mite add that i put a little two stroke oil in fuel to lube upper cylinders with 20 l premium but it was doing it before i did put fuel in which was plane unleaded in tank,,,, and im not thinking head gasket as it showed no sign of drama when i pulled it of the road and its not loseing water from raidiator,,,,,,how do you leen the mixture ,,is that a fuel level thing with the float,,as there isnt much on this in the work shop manual,,,,will drain tank and replace filter today see what i find
with the water out the exuast i do remember often seeing v8 fords with twin pipes dripping lots when idleing and at lights
must be the paint
gave my car bird flu or &*#@ blue disease
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
so i drained tank ,,no water,,,,changed filter no water
checked points ova and ova and turned dissy hear there and everywhere
starts ,,runs ,,,idles,, revs,, but pops loud,or backfires at mid revs after 3 to 4 seconds,,sometime backfires though carby a little,,,,checked the leads to fireing order seems right ,,,dunno!!!
put old carb back on runs revs but popping worse and rougher more light burpping lots not good,,,so put recon carb on and instant inprovement,,,but still backfires at constant rev s when not at idle
help help help?????what am i missing ,,,is it to rich causein this and how do you lean it up as manual dont have any clues tried to check fuel level looked ok as good as you can see with engine movment
checked points ova and ova and turned dissy hear there and everywhere
starts ,,runs ,,,idles,, revs,, but pops loud,or backfires at mid revs after 3 to 4 seconds,,sometime backfires though carby a little,,,,checked the leads to fireing order seems right ,,,dunno!!!
put old carb back on runs revs but popping worse and rougher more light burpping lots not good,,,so put recon carb on and instant inprovement,,,but still backfires at constant rev s when not at idle
help help help?????what am i missing ,,,is it to rich causein this and how do you lean it up as manual dont have any clues tried to check fuel level looked ok as good as you can see with engine movment
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
Gday Karsten
There is a Mixture Screw down near the Idle Speed Screw.
But don't adjust it yet.
I think you screw the mixture screw in all the way,
then back it off a turn & a half, or something like that.
Dont do it yet as a too lean mixture will do damage.
Wait to you can sound advice from someone who really knows what to do.
My car will pop and fart until its warmed up enough,
but thats when under load.
Good luck
Keep us posted
Cheers
Jeff
There is a Mixture Screw down near the Idle Speed Screw.
But don't adjust it yet.
I think you screw the mixture screw in all the way,
then back it off a turn & a half, or something like that.
Dont do it yet as a too lean mixture will do damage.
Wait to you can sound advice from someone who really knows what to do.
My car will pop and fart until its warmed up enough,
but thats when under load.
Good luck
Keep us posted
Cheers
Jeff
Some times you will get backfire out of the carb if it's too lean (searching for fuel), I would make it over rich and then lean it off from there!
I would also check that the dizzy isn't out one tooth.
Trev
I would also check that the dizzy isn't out one tooth.
Trev
[img]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/trevwood/WOOFTOsmall.jpg[/img]
Woofto Car Club Member No3
Woofto Car Club Member No3
-
Craig
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:16 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Fear and Loathing in Brisvegas
I can post up the mixure setting proccedure from the book if you like but without doing a proper road test at operating temp you might be looking for problems that dont exist Try to get your hands on a service manual (got mine on ebay for $25 with postage) a timing light a vacume gauge and a compession gauge and you are set
Better dead than red
EK, the VN of the 60s
EK, the VN of the 60s
yeah ive got a timing light ,,mite have to buy compression tester to eliminate valve ,,but my thinking is away from valve as its not missing just ,seems to be more timeing or fuel did cross my mind trev the wrong tooth bit spose pull it out and try it in either direction 1 tooth i did have it out when i had moter out so i may have got it wrong,,,,
and is that screw afecting the mixture at revs as in the oroginal fb manual ive got i understand it to be idle mixture screw and that when reving it uses main jet ,,,and ive tried it every which way in out turn here turn there doesnt solve the problem
and ive turned distributer eitherway and its best when inline parralell with block,,,,,in the middle of its turn radiess
but it would help to drive under load to test better
it was warmed up to 60 odd after so much fiddling and no better
if distributer was a tooth out would it only be better at one end of turning circle as its best in the middle ,,,,
and is that screw afecting the mixture at revs as in the oroginal fb manual ive got i understand it to be idle mixture screw and that when reving it uses main jet ,,,and ive tried it every which way in out turn here turn there doesnt solve the problem
and ive turned distributer eitherway and its best when inline parralell with block,,,,,in the middle of its turn radiess
but it would help to drive under load to test better
it was warmed up to 60 odd after so much fiddling and no better
if distributer was a tooth out would it only be better at one end of turning circle as its best in the middle ,,,,
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
might be a long shot.... is the dizzy put back in the right place, sounds like a timing issue to me.
My fb had this problem for ages, and it took me ages to work out what it was, i was about to spend a fourtune on getting the twins rebuilt, but when i pulled up at rodney grimas (my mechanic and fellow fb/ek owner) he re done the dizzy postions and she was good as new.One or two teeth may look ok to us, but can be dramas to the grey.
If the vaccum hose dont fit right, bend it into shape.
My fb had this problem for ages, and it took me ages to work out what it was, i was about to spend a fourtune on getting the twins rebuilt, but when i pulled up at rodney grimas (my mechanic and fellow fb/ek owner) he re done the dizzy postions and she was good as new.One or two teeth may look ok to us, but can be dramas to the grey.
If the vaccum hose dont fit right, bend it into shape.
master of nothing, leader of nobody.
I don't know about grey's, but on the red harmonic balancer the outer part can move and make a timing light no good. I recon retro's on the money with the dizzy, pull it out and start again, but dont use the mark on the balancer pull number 1 plug out and have a feel with a screwdriver when it's at top dead center.
These are the things I had to do when trying to get my red going again after an engine swap, I had the dizzy in 180 degree out
, Trev .
These are the things I had to do when trying to get my red going again after an engine swap, I had the dizzy in 180 degree out
, Trev .[img]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/trevwood/WOOFTOsmall.jpg[/img]
Woofto Car Club Member No3
Woofto Car Club Member No3
I'd probably lean more toward Sunnytims line of thinking, in that the car needs a run on the road.By that,I don't mean a trip around the block.
May cure the problem,may diminish the problem or may not help at all.Costs nothing but your time and fuel.
If the probs still there, then go looking for the fix.
Terry.
May cure the problem,may diminish the problem or may not help at all.Costs nothing but your time and fuel.
If the probs still there, then go looking for the fix.
Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Check the tension on the inlet manifold bolts. There may be a slight leak there - maybe the gasket is a little on the bad side. Check there is no leak on the vacuum hoses. The easiest way to do this is to disconnect the outlet where it comes off the carby and block this point. Are all carby to manifold , including the one on the lower side of the insulator, gaskets OK?
Keith
Keith