Project 2.

[Brett027]

Nah, not yet.

[Errol62]

Have to be happy with that Brett. Obviously in a good state of tune. Any idea what jetting, straight from the box?


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[Brett027]

Jetting info is in posts a page or 2 back Clay.

[Errol62]

Found it thanks. Well done sorting it out. Did you use an AFR gauge, or seat of pants? I should give the one I’ve got as a comparison but might not get around to it for a while.

Main jets 0.60 increase to 0.63
Power valve 7.5 decrease to 6.5
Pump nozzle 63 increase to 65


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[Brett027]

Yes air fuel thingy sits on ~14 except on acceleration when it goes down to 11. Dont forget I have 5th gear overdrive and 3.36 diff. Engine is only doing 2000rpm at 100kph. Setting 2,8 on ice ignition box, fuel pressure 7psi and 14°btdc and the rest is top secret


A lot of it is seat of your pants. Power valve tweeking after using vacuum gauge to pick a starting point valve was on acceleration feel and AF readouts. I think power valve choice is really critical and you cant do it easily without using a vacuum gauge to determine the starting point. Depending on cam and engine build every engine will be different. Main jet selection used AF readouts and the fuel squirter thingo was trying a few richer ones after I had done a bit of driving to beat a slight hesitation when it was floored. Also, the accelerator pump adjustment is very important to get right, both to get right amount of squirt but also not to damage the accelerator pump diaphragm. As well, the float height was not quite right from factory- an easy adjustment on the Holley.

The good thing is that now it is setup, there is nothing else to do. It just stays there unless you make a change.

[Errol62]

Thanks Brett. The Holley’s have the reputation of being set up to be tuned fairly easily if you know or have an idea what to do, and as you say every engine is different. I’ve always got around the 25mpg cruising economy with the 3” stroke manual engines I’ve had, with single and twin Stromberg, as well as SUs. 202 I’ve had in manual and auto and 22mpg us more the figure.

I considered getting an AFR meter but only found the installed type. Went cool on the idea and now I see them every time I go on Facebook. I decided to just take the car to someone to set up, and they reckon the tune is spot on out of the box. I’ll take that to mean it is ok as is, not that it couldn’t be improved.

Keep enjoying that ute mate.


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[Harv]

The good thing is that now it is setup, there is nothing else to do. It just stays there unless you make a change.

The Holley’s have the reputation of being set up to be tuned fairly easily if you know or have an idea what to do, and as you say every engine is different.

The Holleys are a really well designed carb. I suspect a lot of their reputation for being thirsty is either:
a) Because they are so readily available (and interchangeable), people over-carb and wonder why response is sluggish. They then drive with a heavy right foot,
b) Because parts are so available, people fiddle with them or blame them for ignition woes (Carburettor is French for "don't #$%^ with it), or
c) People expect out-of-the-box performance to be correct, despite each carb suiting a VERY wide range of capacity and tune.

Cheers,
Harv

[Brett027]

A bit of an update. Pacemaker headers fitted and instant improvement. Had to make a pipe to move across to the mufler which is closer to the sill. Also had to change my power supply to starter slightly, to make a bit of space. The headers are a good fit on the head and bolt on evenly with the standard washers. Engine was running a bit rich for my liking so backed off main jets from 63's to 61's. Static timing reset to 14.5° BTDC. It wouldn't beat my mates 351GT, but it's respectible.

Fitted a cheepie GPS speedo/ tacho combination (purchase discussed in a seperate post). I gave it a run today and speedo (kms) is reading exactly the same as my heads up display unit. Having extra turn indicator lights in the unit is good for me as the steering wheel obscures the originals a wee bit. Tacho has infinite adjustment to match it to the ignition and I have a bit of tweeking to get that spot on, but it works and is easy to adjust. I think the ICE unit may be scaring it a bit. Overall it is a good unit for the $100 I think. Fits straight in the hole where the original speedo goes and is easy peasy to wire in, as all the connections (except the tacho pulse input wire) are already there on the instrument panel to join to. Took me about 4 hours all up.

While I was there I sorted out a glitch that has been there from day one on the road. Turns out I had mucked up wiring a 2 pin flasher to replace the original 3 pin setup. The fix required earthing the dash indicator bulbs and swapping the centre wire on the bulb holder to the coloured wire instead of black which originally returned to the 3rd flasher can pin. An easy fix, which also sorted a phantom headlight relay fuse issue that was also related to the indicators. Also changed my voltmeter +ve wire connection while I was in there.

Photos of headers and speedo attached.

[Errol62]

Looking good. Thanks for the update.


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[funkyscooter]

Thanks for the update Brett. Is the Pacemakers you went with the PH5004?

https://pacemaker.com.au/products/ph-50 ... a-lc-to-lh

No clearance issues the the chassis strengthening kit? Looks like there is plenty of room from the picture.

[Brett027]

Yes, PH 5004. No issues with chassis kit or anything else. They are about 15mm from steering idler arm support, but not close to anything else.

[Errol62]

Handy to know.


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[funkyscooter]

Great! I'll be adding that to the shopping list.

[Brett027]

Pics I took before I had pipe made. You can see extractors are miles away from chassis kit and gearbox crossmembers etc.

[Errol62]

Looking at the specs, they are a decent diameter, primaries and secondaries, and 2.25” outlet is ideal. I will go with 2.25” system next time as it seems to work and sound good on the sedan.


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