Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
Is there any oil supply to lube rollers and top of valves?
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
From what I can see, the rollers and valve stem tips are splash-fed.
Cheers,
Harv
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
ARP fasteners arrived, so went to fit them. Could not get either of the exhaust or inlet shafts to bed down. Lots and lots of fit and fiddle, and paranoia that I was doing something wrong. Finally realised that the heads are hand finished, and the angles for tapping and drilling may not be exact. The results of all that fit and fiddle tell me that for my particular head:
a) for the inlets, the shaft has to be in place and then the studs screwed through it, and
b) for the exhausts, that pedestal bolts need to be started before the pedestal/rocker cover studs are started.
All good - it all fit neatly, nothing tight or binding where it shouldn't. Gave up waiting for the 1/8 NPT plugs to arrive, so took the supplied long ones and ran them partly down a die. Refit to exhaust rocker shaft, see if they are flush, then die them some more until the are. Plugs now flush and not fouling rocker cover. The outer two exhaust pedestals do slightly foul. A smear of yellow paint, rocker in place, gentle tappy tappy then check the rocker cover for where the paint is rubbed off. Die grind a little, then repeat the paint check until it no longer fouls.
Think I am about there. Fit to engine:
Next step: pushrods.
Cheers,
Harv
a) for the inlets, the shaft has to be in place and then the studs screwed through it, and
b) for the exhausts, that pedestal bolts need to be started before the pedestal/rocker cover studs are started.
All good - it all fit neatly, nothing tight or binding where it shouldn't. Gave up waiting for the 1/8 NPT plugs to arrive, so took the supplied long ones and ran them partly down a die. Refit to exhaust rocker shaft, see if they are flush, then die them some more until the are. Plugs now flush and not fouling rocker cover. The outer two exhaust pedestals do slightly foul. A smear of yellow paint, rocker in place, gentle tappy tappy then check the rocker cover for where the paint is rubbed off. Die grind a little, then repeat the paint check until it no longer fouls.
- rocker cover clearance.jpg (1.12 MiB) Viewed 2118 times
Think I am about there. Fit to engine:
- head on.jpg (1.74 MiB) Viewed 2118 times
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
That is a thing of beauty Harv 
One of our club members has one and he is making noises about selling it - its out of me budget but if he decided to move it on you will be the first bloke who knows about it
One of our club members has one and he is making noises about selling it - its out of me budget but if he decided to move it on you will be the first bloke who knows about it
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
Come on Blacky. Need one on the yoot.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
Today, pushrods. Almost.
Knew the pushrods were too long for the rollies, so didn’t fit them when I put the head on. Need to measure, then get new ones made up. Somewhat frightened, as they are NOTHING like a normal pushrod. They need to be custom made from 1/4” silver steel rod, then heat treated. Preparing for a wallet-dectomy
Figured I could screw the rocker adjuster out, slip in a pushrod checker, then refit the adjuster. Good in theory, not in practice - adjusters only come out downwards. Rocket gear off. I had bought a ball-end pushrod checker years ago, and managed to put it aside when I packed the shed up.
In theory, fit the checker and rocker gear, screw the checker out (with a feeler gauge holding roller tip lash at 14 thou) and then get the new pushrods made up to that length. Slight problem: the checker I bought years ago does 9.8-10.8”… and I need about 8” for the exhaust and 6.5” for the inlet. I could cut some rod down and fit, cut, fit, cut but all that gear is now packed away with the shed, and my patience for refitting rocker gear a dozen times would grow thin. Two new checkers to suit on their way.
The next learning was that the rollers are made for 5/16” balls, and the lifter end cups are made for 1/4”. The cups are an insert fit into the standard lifter, once it has been recessed a little. If I get the cups milled to suit a 5/16” ball then I can use standard type pushrods. Lifters back out and off to have the buckets milled.
Cheers,
Harv
Knew the pushrods were too long for the rollies, so didn’t fit them when I put the head on. Need to measure, then get new ones made up. Somewhat frightened, as they are NOTHING like a normal pushrod. They need to be custom made from 1/4” silver steel rod, then heat treated. Preparing for a wallet-dectomy
- IMG_0203.jpeg (7.39 MiB) Viewed 2036 times
Figured I could screw the rocker adjuster out, slip in a pushrod checker, then refit the adjuster. Good in theory, not in practice - adjusters only come out downwards. Rocket gear off. I had bought a ball-end pushrod checker years ago, and managed to put it aside when I packed the shed up.
- IMG_0202.jpeg (8.32 MiB) Viewed 2036 times
In theory, fit the checker and rocker gear, screw the checker out (with a feeler gauge holding roller tip lash at 14 thou) and then get the new pushrods made up to that length. Slight problem: the checker I bought years ago does 9.8-10.8”… and I need about 8” for the exhaust and 6.5” for the inlet. I could cut some rod down and fit, cut, fit, cut but all that gear is now packed away with the shed, and my patience for refitting rocker gear a dozen times would grow thin. Two new checkers to suit on their way.
The next learning was that the rollers are made for 5/16” balls, and the lifter end cups are made for 1/4”. The cups are an insert fit into the standard lifter, once it has been recessed a little. If I get the cups milled to suit a 5/16” ball then I can use standard type pushrods. Lifters back out and off to have the buckets milled.
- IMG_0196.jpeg (2.74 MiB) Viewed 2036 times
- IMG_0197.jpeg (3.66 MiB) Viewed 2036 times
- IMG_0199.jpeg (3.1 MiB) Viewed 2036 times
- IMG_0198.jpeg (2.84 MiB) Viewed 2036 times
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
Can't justify the cost mate - the Holden grey motor is surpassed only by the flathead frod on the wrong side of the dollars in to horsepower out equation
I could do a LOT of stuff to the 2 door with what I would spend on a Repco head for the ute......I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: Harv's Repco HighPower crossflow head thread
I can see why the red motor so quickly overtook the grey. To get 200hp out of a grey reliably costs an arm and a leg.
This exercise will be worth it in the end, but there are times when I wish I could shop a catalogue and bolt up like you can with a SBC.
Cheers,
Harv
This exercise will be worth it in the end, but there are times when I wish I could shop a catalogue and bolt up like you can with a SBC.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.