FB Standard Wagon

[ardiesse]

The Front Engine Mount Plate:

Fit the front main bearing cap to the block, using a straightedge for alignment.
Clean all paint and gasket residue from the back face of the front engine mount plate.
Bearing-blue the front face of the block and front main bearing cap.
Place the front engine mount plate in position on the front face of the block (don't bolt it down yet) and see where it makes contact.

The front engine mount plate has a recess in the rear face. It's for timing gear lubrication, and contains oil at pressure. You want the front engine mount plate to be flat or even slightly convex, so the plate seals tightly to the block around the recess. A lump hammer and a hardwood drift, with the back of the plate supported by flat bar in the right places, work well to ease the plate into "true".

(I've had oil leak out between the front main bearing cap and the front engine mount plate. I've had oil leak out through the threads of the timing cover bolts. All because the front engine mount plate was concave.)

Oh, and - replace the camshaft thrust washer retaining screws (1/4" UNC, 7/16" AF) with hex socket head or button-head equivalents. It will make installing the camshaft soooo much easier.

Rob

[FbSTDwagon]

For the manifold clamps, I normally grind one side down so that they sit square.


clamp.png


Cheers,
Harv

That is some serious CAD work there Harv!

[FbSTDwagon]

My approach is to reduce the width of the inner extractor flanges to the same dimension as a standard exhaust manifold. Or, you could use the "hand milling machine" to "en-thinnen" the back face of the flange to accommodate the taper in the clamp. The welds may need relieving also. Is there any way you could set the extractors up in that mill of yours and make the faces co-planar while you're at it?

. . . and usually the clamps have been bent by over-tightening. They may need straightening.

And about machined faces: yes, they've both been decked, and it would be fantastic if they mated; but more than once I've had a machined head rock on a decked block. To the point where I match the faces by hand. Hours and hours of work.

Rob

Rob I can’t mill the extractors that just too much for what I’m looking to achieve.
I’ll find a work around for it, it will probably wake me up tonight with a idea haha.

Will definitely check the head to block fit before going too much further.

[FbSTDwagon]

The Front Engine Mount Plate:

Fit the front main bearing cap to the block, using a straightedge for alignment.
Clean all paint and gasket residue from the back face of the front engine mount plate.
Bearing-blue the front face of the block and front main bearing cap.
Place the front engine mount plate in position on the front face of the block (don't bolt it down yet) and see where it makes contact.

The front engine mount plate has a recess in the rear face. It's for timing gear lubrication, and contains oil at pressure. You want the front engine mount plate to be flat or even slightly convex, so the plate seals tightly to the block around the recess. A lump hammer and a hardwood drift, with the back of the plate supported by flat bar in the right places, work well to ease the plate into "true".

(I've had oil leak out between the front main bearing cap and the front engine mount plate. I've had oil leak out through the threads of the timing cover bolts. All because the front engine mount plate was concave.)

Oh, and - replace the camshaft thrust washer retaining screws (1/4" UNC, 7/16" AF) with hex socket head or button-head equivalents. It will make installing the camshaft soooo much easier.

Rob

Wow I will have to look back at this post when I get to fitting the front engine plate, great info there Rob.

[FbSTDwagon]

So I’m thinking there is no need to roll pin the extractors into place.

I marked up the manifold face and did some measuring and the extractor holes cover the exhaust ports nicely, so without complicating the process any further I am happy to know that the extractors line up with the ports in a good enough manner.

I was thinking they would be way off and roll pinning it in place would locate it correctly, but it’s not needed.

Happy I checked it, I can sleep easy on it.

I then layed the extractor gasket on the face and the port holes on that are so large and they clear the exhaust ports in a major way. Any mis alignment of the extractors to the head will be negated with this bogan of a gasket.

[FbSTDwagon]

So that leaves the alignment of the intake manifold.

The head has been ported but the round spring alignment things sit in there nicely so I don’t think it’s been ported beyond stupid.

So I could simply use the original spring alignment things and be done with it, but the round spring things reduce the intake port size by a poofteenth, so it negates getting the head ported to a degree.

If I roll pin the manifold in position it won’t be a true match port due to the size of the holes in the bogan extractor gasket. but it should flow better.

So…. Roll pin and remove the round spring things… or just use the round spring things?

[ardiesse]

Just use the "round spring things". Alignment's what they're for, and they'll keep a more constant port diameter than the oversize holes in the manifold gasket (so less of a flow discontinuity).

Extractors: A good way of visualising what I mean by narrowing the flanges is to bolt the extractors up against a standard exhaust manifold and cut the excess off the front and rear of the second and third flanges.

Rob

[FbSTDwagon]

Well this has put me off the beat for a while.
Hope im feeling better in a couple of days so I can have some payed shed time

[ardiesse]

Drew,

That's exactly what I was thinking too. I thought I could spend some time on my (aptly-named) coronavirus project for the same reason . . .

but I started some car work, and then realised it was more tiring than expected. The symptoms may not appear serious, but it slows you down.

Moral: get lots of rest.

Rob

[Blacky]

I was crook - only mildly - for 3 days then I was out in the shed but as per Rob, I ran out of steam way earlier then normal, you need to plan some cruisy jobs for your covid holiday mate

[EK283]

Bugger that,

I don't want to get that disease !!! Its wicked, my wife who is a nurse is saying that heart issues and diabetes are on the rise in people who have had covid, not everyone but bloody hell who knows


Take care guys and get plenty of rest.

Greg

[Errol62]

As above. It took me a good month of lolling around before i recovered some stamina. By which time my fitness was shot. Just getting back to full steam after being cleared 25th Feb.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[gpi]

even ozzy osbourne has had covid!

[Harv]

even ozzy osbourne has had covid!

Ossie Ostrich.png (109.87 KiB) Viewed 639 times

No.... wait.... you said Osbourne, not Ostrich.

Cheers,
Harv

[FbSTDwagon]

So feeling a bit better from this covid crap I’ve been out the shed yesterday arvo and this morning.

No matter what I try I can’t get the extractors sitting flat on the head when clamped up.

They have obviously been manufactured in a welding jig with high welding heat that has warped the flat faces of extractors.
I have relieved all the places when it was sitting and where there is no need for material to try to get it sitting down further.
It’s just the physics of meta and welding, it al moves.

The mating face really needs to be machined after welding ING there is no way I can do that.

Bloody pissed off having a .010” gap where all of the ‘x’ are in the photo.

Only thing I can think of is that some exhaust sealant and the gasket will somehow do the job.

I have seen so many time these extractor gaskets blow out in this exact positions and now I know why.