FB Standard Wagon
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FbSTDwagon
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Cheers Clay but im sure the body isn’t twisted, I didn’t remove enough material to warrant any concern.
So I spent the day fitting and removing the y frames with my brother and checking how the guards and bonnet sit on the frame.
All in all the fit will be ok.
I fitted the y frame back and was only marginally better than the original fit but hey it’s probably how it came from the factory.
I’m just going to move on and continue with putting the cat together but I’ll concentrate on the fitting the panels sooner rather than later.
One good thing that come from removing and refitting the y frame is that I won’t be loosing any sleep knowing that I have done all that I can to get it right.
So I spent the day fitting and removing the y frames with my brother and checking how the guards and bonnet sit on the frame.
All in all the fit will be ok.
I fitted the y frame back and was only marginally better than the original fit but hey it’s probably how it came from the factory.
I’m just going to move on and continue with putting the cat together but I’ll concentrate on the fitting the panels sooner rather than later.
One good thing that come from removing and refitting the y frame is that I won’t be loosing any sleep knowing that I have done all that I can to get it right.
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Drew
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Looking good 

FB ute driver, EK van project


FB ute driver, EK van project
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Worth it all for your peace of mind Drew.
If you are a gap perfectionist, sometimes it seems the ultimate course of action is to add metal. There are a few builds on the forum where doors have had metal added and on my own build I added metal to the end of a donor guard while I was doing rust repairs to get front door to guard gap right- and I'm a gap slacker
As many have said previously, there seemed to be a lot of leeway in production tolerances.
Thanks, I'm enjoying the great work.
If you are a gap perfectionist, sometimes it seems the ultimate course of action is to add metal. There are a few builds on the forum where doors have had metal added and on my own build I added metal to the end of a donor guard while I was doing rust repairs to get front door to guard gap right- and I'm a gap slacker
As many have said previously, there seemed to be a lot of leeway in production tolerances.
Thanks, I'm enjoying the great work.
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: FB Standard Wagon
It's weird isn't it - the passengers guard looks tight up against the scuttle but it lines up perfectly with the end of it , the drivers side looks more like how they usually are and IT lines up perfectly as well which would indicate a discrepancy in the shapes of the guards, no wonder panelbeaters drink a lot .......
Really enjoying watching this build
Really enjoying watching this build
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Amen and amen.
The front door to front guard gaps on our family's EK varied from about 2 mm at the top to I-could-stick-my-finger-in at the sill. I guess they tilted the front subframe up too far at the factory, before drilling the holes through the body and skirts . . .
Rob
The front door to front guard gaps on our family's EK varied from about 2 mm at the top to I-could-stick-my-finger-in at the sill. I guess they tilted the front subframe up too far at the factory, before drilling the holes through the body and skirts . . .
Rob
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FbSTDwagon
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Brett I’m no gap perfectionist but I’ll certainly try to get it all as best as I can using the original panels.
And Blacky yeah the guards are manipulated up into those positions in the photos, they will need some creative shimming to get it all looking acceptable but I’ll get the job done.
Hey if the gaps are all over the joint so be it, but I’m sure it will be ok
And Blacky yeah the guards are manipulated up into those positions in the photos, they will need some creative shimming to get it all looking acceptable but I’ll get the job done.
Hey if the gaps are all over the joint so be it, but I’m sure it will be ok
Drew
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FbSTDwagon
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Is that how they fitted the frames?ardiesse wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 11:29 am Amen and amen.
The front door to front guard gaps on our family's EK varied from about 2 mm at the top to I-could-stick-my-finger-in at the sill. I guess they tilted the front subframe up too far at the factory, before drilling the holes through the body and skirts . . .
Rob
Put them in place and then drill the holes???
Holy no wonder there was inconsistencies!
Drew
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FbSTDwagon
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Anyways got the old girl back on the rotisserie so I can attack anything I can with the extra access.
And my mate George is always out the front watching the world go by… he keeps all the real estate agents and sniffling little kids away



And my mate George is always out the front watching the world go by… he keeps all the real estate agents and sniffling little kids away
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Drew
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FbSTDwagon
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
So I am working through all the parts to install under the dash and it all seems pretty straight forward until I get thrown a curve ball…
The hand brake pulley / pivot which mounts to the y frames wasn’t fitted when I got the car and I didn’t think twice about it.
I picked a pulley off another wreck and went to fit it on my car and bang… no where to bolt it too!
I always wondered what that hole was on y frames and now I now.
Bloody sheet feck kent of a thing I have to do some decking welding to get a nut back in there to mount the hand brake pulley to…
Any suggestions fellas????
The hand brake pulley / pivot which mounts to the y frames wasn’t fitted when I got the car and I didn’t think twice about it.
I picked a pulley off another wreck and went to fit it on my car and bang… no where to bolt it too!
I always wondered what that hole was on y frames and now I now.
Bloody sheet feck kent of a thing I have to do some decking welding to get a nut back in there to mount the hand brake pulley to…
Any suggestions fellas????
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Drew
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Nutsert?
FB ute driver, EK van project
FB ute driver, EK van project
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: FB Standard Wagon
That was my first thought, dont know if it would be strong enough ? Would probably bend when you pull the handbrake on ....
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Drew,
A thought: Take the pulley off, position the "axle stud" and cable guard; then weld the cable guard to the subframe? It'd have to be easier than welding a nut into the subframe. Or weld the stud in place and assemble the other components on to it . . .
Rob
A thought: Take the pulley off, position the "axle stud" and cable guard; then weld the cable guard to the subframe? It'd have to be easier than welding a nut into the subframe. Or weld the stud in place and assemble the other components on to it . . .
Rob
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FbSTDwagon
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
-
FbSTDwagon
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Yes something like that will probably be the desired end result…ardiesse wrote: Fri Nov 12, 2021 2:47 pm Drew,
A thought: Take the pulley off, position the "axle stud" and cable guard; then weld the cable guard to the subframe? It'd have to be easier than welding a nut into the subframe. Or weld the stud in place and assemble the other components on to it . . .
Rob
I’m just trying to think out of the box for a solution that won’t mean I am welding on my new paint!
My brain is concocting a thought about inserting a backing plate through the hole with a tapped hole to suit the pulley assembly…
Maybe I could screw that backing plate into place and give it extra hold with some cold weld type of stuff.
It will all be covered with the pulley so visually it shouldn’t be noticeable
Drew