Wilma FB project

[Brett027]

Happy day today, got Wilma's donk back from Terry at Queanbeyan Engine Reconditioners. I wanted to check this motor before putting it back in. It was sold to me as reconditioned 12k miles before the car was laid up. When I pulled it open it became obvious that while the bore was good, rings and bearings were not good enough. Sump was full of sludge and oil strainer was clogged. Valve heads were too thin and head needed a skim. All the water jackets were chock full of dirt and old welch plugs. So took her into Terry 3 weeks ago and picked it up today.
A bit better than Project 2's motor, which has been burnt in the bushfires and now over 12months away from home. Planning to go to Sydney to pick it up next Wednesday whether its ready or not. Have had enough.

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[Errol62]

Fresh donk you bewdy

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[gpi]

Looks like it’s got about the right amount of power for a grey

[Harv]

A bit better than Project 2's motor, which has been burnt in the bushfires and now over 12months away from home. Planning to go to Sydney to pick it up next Wednesday whether its ready or not. Have had enough.

Shonky engine rebuilder? If so, would be interested to know the name (by PM... no need to name and shame on the open forum).

Cheers,
Harv

[ardiesse]

Brett,

Doors: Strewth. You did what you were threatening to do. Well done.

Rob

[Brett027]

Ha ha. Plenty of ponies in that beautiful block. New water pump, reconditioned dissy and new alternator to go on. Gearbox check/fix to do and new clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing to go in when I get sick of doors for a bit.
Yes, door thing is a bit daunting, but what the heck. If I can't get it right I'll get another skin and take it to a professional.
Used my rolly, beady thingy today and made the bottom channel that the water sits in. Didn't turn out too badly if I say so myself. One or two other rust repairs to do then treat the inside for rust and then try the skin and door for gap fit before the big weld. What can possibly go wrong?

[Brett027]

Just brushed POR15 on inside door after fitting door to body and checking gaps with skin sitting in place. I will seam seal and spray on sound deadener once skin is in place. Then spray in cavity wax behind the double layer panels. In the meantime starting work on the front drivers door while the paint dries.
As an aside, has anyone else tried this hand cleaner? It's a beauty.

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[Errol62]

All this good work Brett. You can’t sell the thing.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Brett027]

Hello Clay, trouble is, I would be only be happy selling it if it was reliable and done properly; same as if I was keeping it for us. As for selling/keeping we'll see. Kate seems to be wanting to keep it at the moment, and I will keep it and enjoy it until Project 2 is on the road anyway- which could be quite a few years. I'm getting slower getting things done every week

[Errol62]

Nothing is forever but
It’s all about priorities I know.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[In the Shed]

Nice work Brett,

Keep at it mate. Have not tried that hand cleaner. I use the orange citrus stuff with pumice granules. I new my last resto was going too long when I stopped buying the 500 gram container and bought the 5 kg tin. Half a tin gone and 3 yrs later it finally left the shed and hit the road.

Stephen

[Brett027]

Thanks Stephen.
Not much happening today- other stuff to do. Just stripped off the black paint on the patch panel, treated the rust under the paint(!!) and sprayed inside surface with epoxy primer. Learnt years ago to always strip off the black protective paint as there's nearly always rust under it.
Will do the fit and weld tomorrow. Not sure whether to roll the lips and tack the corners first then weld, or tack the corners, do the big weld and then do the folds last??? Happy to take advice.


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[Errol62]

Yep. It's just like when you get so called pre-primed LOSP timber. I've seen people paint straight over it and next morning the dew has washed the paint straight off.

I've not done a partial skin but I would approach it by first folding over the weld through primed edges and check the gaps on the car and adjust. Then tack to frame every foot or so, with small overlap to existing skin. Then cut through with 1mm disc, clamp flush and tack the join. Big weld last controlling the heat very carefully.

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[Brett027]

A week of on/off Wilma work. Rear door skin on, other rust and dent repairs done and paint and putty stage started. Stripped off passenger front guard and found a mountain of bog and dents. Swapped for one of a set of guards from Condo that I had picked up for Project 2. Usual rust work needed but otherwise straight. I'm thinking of getting a panel beater to fix Wilma's guard to have it ready for the ute next year. Can do the rust, but a whole panel of raised bumps , creases and dents is not time well spent I'm thinking, and more realistically probably beyond my meagre skills.
Got project 2 motor back finally (12months), a mild cam and head mods to go with extractors and dual stroms. Go wild! Both motors ready to slot in.
A few photos of stuff:

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[Errol62]

Great work Brett. You might be best finding another guard for proj 2 if it is badly out of shape.

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