Photos of floor pan

[Brett027]

So like this but straight?

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[Errol62]

'zactly

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[rosco]

I was lucky with my strip - it was still in good nick when I pulled off the rear bumper to spray the back section.
I replaced the self tappers with stainless. I also stripped the steel retainer to bare steel and painted it with POR-15.

If you have the bumper apart (will put up a post on this elsewhere) - the over-riders.... they need protection.

When I had mine apart - I stripped the bumper irons as well.. both the little ones which hold the over-riders to the main bumper sections and also the irons which bolt up to the rear vehicle frame.

Over-riders... these are a rust trap in the making... the open part of them (both FB and EK) will trap crud/leaves into the base.
There are two drainage holes in an EK (don't know about FB) which will quickly block up... the inside of the over-riders will rust out.

I did this a long time ago, probably 30 years back after finding the signs of rust showing through one of them at the bottom.
I scraped and sanded out as much of the rust as I could - then hit it with a rust-eater... fishoilene then enamel primer and oodles of enamel top coat. From memory, I used a product from the Spartan range... name attracted me to believe it was "superior rust protection" or something.. but, it worked.

The main thing I did, was to make up some neoprene rubber flaps - which I used Sikaflex to adhere and seal up the cavity of the over-rider...
I set these flaps back inside the opening a bit so that they could not be seen.. but could be felt... they sit just on the outside of the threads of the mount bolts.... Sikaflex holds them in place and seals out any ingress.... I check the drainage ports from time to time.. but nothing has ever come out of them.... I didn't do those on the front bumper.. but might if I pull the assembly off again... there is a natural venting of rubbish in the front, but crud being what it is... it could block up the drains.... I do remember scraping/sanding/painting the inside of those - as well as the inside of all bumpers as well.... the "other" side of chrome plating is also good to protect - my philosophy, so far - so good...

frats,
Rosco

[Brett027]

Thanks Rosco- appreciate your thoughts and experiences here. I am thinking that I wont invest in these strips because it seems to me that all they would do us dump everything back on to the inside/back of the bumper. I wonder if the better option is to keep it all open and spend the effort coating the inside bumper with rust protection ?

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[rosco]

Brett,
preparing and sealing the inside of the bumper is paramount, in my opinion. I even did the insides of my hub caps... I don't do the inside of stainless, but everything else which comes off gets the treatment...

The rubber flap was put there for a reason.. more likely to prevent the rear panel getting dirty from updraft... I don't believe it is necessary, but attention to the manner in which the rear panel is cleaned will need additional care...
By its very location, the panel will be subject to receiving a good liberal dusting and coating of crud.. fine particles - some almost invisible.
Wiping over that panel will cause micro-scratching... and also embed a cleaning cloth/wash mitt with same.... which will add damage to anything it is used on afterwards...

By comparison, I believe this back panel would receive just as much or more of this damaging grit than the lower door/guard sections... by the location of the panel... it probably doesn't have the same self-draining action at speed.. being in a "drawing" location than a drafting one...

To my way of thinking, this flap does not need to be anything of substantial thickness... a strip of just 1mm neoprene from Clark Rubber would suffice and a flat strip at that.... it will bend to shape under the upper bumper section... and will more than likely bend to a more permanent shape with time.

The difficult bits would be those of around the tail-light assemblies... from memory, these are fitted separately on each side and there is some form of over-lap of the three sections (long time back now).

You may find a suitable "molded" piece which can be adapted from a Clark rubber stocked item .... they carry many such items for varying products.. washing machines etc., etc.... there is more than likely something which has an approximate curvature of the lower tail-light radius...

I would fit stainless self tappers to retain these two pieces .. with a simple piece of painted thin flat steel which has been rounded to shape and drilled to suit the mounting holes in the tail-light.

If, however - you make the corporate decision to run "au natural"... and do not fit these strips - I would seriously suggest you seal up the mount holes in both the rear panel and also each tail-light... again, I'd go with stainless self tappers and a good coating/caulking with Sikaflex (love that stuff!).

Yes - if you follow my thoughts on fabrication the seals - it will put you back a bit... but improve a project which will add further to your satisfaction in the build..... and, like so many others of these - not seen by anyone except yourself...

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

Well blow me down. Apparently they do make a repro.

https://betterautorubber.com.au/product ... dust-seal/

Photo looks like FE FC, beware.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[rosco]

Clay, I'm not 100% certain - but something is nagging me that the Hughes Bros. told me the bootlids of FE/FC are interchangeable with FB/EK... not gospel.. but I have this "feeling"... Arthur and Tony are now long gone, to the best of my knowledge... and I have lost any contact for them regardless...

I don't know if the seal channel was changed between the two different body styles.. and hence the seal itself.

frats,
Rosco

[ardiesse]

Rosco,

Your hunch is correct. FE/FC and FB/EK bootlids interchange*. But I think the GMH engineers tidied up the way the boot lock retaining clip is held in. For FE/FC the tab installs from the inside, and you need the special long-reach pliers and a pressure-pak of swear-words. For FB/EK (I think), the tab goes in from the outside, like it does on the front doors.

Rob

* Location and size of holes for name letters, badges and escutcheons may vary. Consult manual before application. Confirm applicability of product before purchase.

[Errol62]

They are basically the same panel and opening and the same seal can be used.

Different part numbers ar e due to different penetrations for badging.

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[ardiesse]

Clay,

So there was such a thing as an EK 215A. I thought they were an "off-the-books" special order. Steve Jackson had one in NSW, along with the "Premier".

Rob

[rosco]

Thanks for the confirmation, Rob - the key lock holder is indeed retained by a tab which is inserted from the external bottom of the lid... it annoyed me much that this seemed to interfere with the boot lid rubber making the seal complete. I tried to insert it both ways ... and it seemed better to have the lip of this retainer facing outwards - which is how I fitted it to mine.

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

Yes Rob,
And apparently there was one only EK 2106 A body sold. Possibly the rarest body type of any Holden.

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[EK283]

The original strip on the rear beaver panel.

IMG_1031.JPG (437.22 KiB) Viewed 653 times

IMG_1030.JPG (75.21 KiB) Viewed 653 times

Greg

[Brett027]

Thanks Greg, there's a facebook post today of a fernando yellow fb and it shows the rubber in place. First time I've seen it. Apologies Steve Jackson for steeling your photo.

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[Blacky]

Surprisingly enough the rubber is still intact on th erattler, i had to remove it to redo the quarter and it stayed in one piece so I have been squirting it with baby oil to soften it up and it will be going back on if I ever finish the bloody thing .......