Leroy the EK Ute

[In the Shed]

Hi Brother,
Good work it is looking very tidy. The modifiers on this forum would suggest you could just drop those original shortened springs back in and drop the nose an inch or two

Regards
Stephen

[thebrotherj]

Hi Brother,
Good work it is looking very tidy. The modifiers on this forum would suggest you could just drop those original shortened springs back in and drop the nose an inch or two

Regards
Stephen

Hahaha yeah! First thing I said to my bro when I saw that both of them were broken at the same spot down the bottom was "well, that's my lowering sorted!!"

Nearly kept them too you know... alas I had to do it 'right'





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[thebrotherj]

Rocketing along there J. Like your windscreen masking material.
Cheers
Clay


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Thanks Clay, I've been up way too late some nights, but it's warmer in the garage than my house. Might put a bed in there.

Some magazine subscription my folks had came with a bonus calendar each year with old Buick/Olds/Studebaker/AMC/Pontiac ads for images.. I have so many lying around! And I don't buy newspapers anymore so masking paper has been short supply

Good inspiration tho, I love those drawings


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[Mick]

good work
what do use to get stuff so clean

[thebrotherj]

good work
what do use to get stuff so clean

Thanks Mick!
Just doing it all by hand mate. Bit of a slog, I'm doing the driver's side today.

Scraper, wire brush, 60grit, 600 grit, maybe 1200 grit if it's something you'll be looking at a lot (engine bay, back of the bonnet etc)... thinners if there's a heap of grease... always a big wipe down with Prepsol before painting. I'll use rust convertor where it's needed but I always let that set for more than the recommended 3 hours. Then it's etch primer (1 hour) acrylic satin black (1 hour) then maybe some clear.

No tricks, and it's time consuming, but totally worth it I reckon


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[thebrotherj]

what better way to deal with a hangover. Rolling around on the floor scraping this lot clean... then sniffing rust convertor paint








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[thebrotherj]

5 days of straight rain forecast so I wrangled a day off work to get the driver's side of the front-end under paint before that happens...

Pretty pleased so far.



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[WayneXG95]

In here somewhere is my post about replacing the rubber that go around the top of the subframe where the guard attaches.
If it any help?

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 11&t=15459

[Blacky]

looks mint mate

[thebrotherj]

In here somewhere is my post about replacing the rubber that go around the top of the subframe where the guard attaches.
If it any help?

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 11&t=15459

yeah I remember reading that post ages ago, Russell used the Clark Rubber strips. is that the one? I was going to go looking for that but mine are actually completely intact (a small miracle) so I'm not going to touch it!

[thebrotherj]

looks mint mate

cheers Blacky

[In the Shed]

You gotta love the Utes I expect a lot of elbow grease has gone into that bonnet and guard, but the results look great. Good work Brother J.

Regards
Stephen

[thebrotherj]

You gotta love the Utes I expect a lot of elbow grease has gone into that bonnet and guard, but the results look great. Good work Brother J.

Regards
Stephen

Oh the irony - I'm in treatment for a pretty savage case of tennis elbow at the moment as a result of all this! Hahaha... it's a pretty spicy pain just trying to use tin-snips on sheet metal at the moment.
My body doesn't bounce back from 12 hour days of sanding and wire brushing and operating machinery like it used to

[thebrotherj]

Good night tonight, put the driver's side front suspension together and it all seems good. Just need to strip and rebuild the drum & hub assemblies and it'll be back on Mother Earth again.



I also spent a fair bit of time getting the new front metal brake lines fitted up as best I could, shaping that stupid one that runs under the radiator for the LHF wheel. What engineer thought running a brake line along a hot radiator was a good idea.







Still a few tweaks needed but it's going to work.

Finally, I refitted the rear engine mount brackets and a full set of new engine mounts as the old ones were all jelly. I had to weld a new channel inside the RH bracket as it had rusted, but you can't tell, it looks factory in the outside.



I also started dummying up the new clutch slave and pushrod. The new push rod from Rares is too long, but I swapped over the locknut and pivot ball onto the old rod, which looks to have been ground down. Not much room for adjustment! I fee like something about my clutch fork or even the slave mounting might not be right... any tips from the boffins? The workshop manual looks the same as what I'm showing:



[IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201706 ... 01.jpg[IMG]




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[thebrotherj]

that last photo didn't load right, this is the view from the other side. Does it look right?




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