ALTERNATOR WIRING (NO HARNESS INSTALLED)

[Lex68]

GDay FBEK'rs

Straight to the point.......I have wired the engine up to start as if its out of the car as it has no harness or proper ignition switch, I am using a simple on/off switch as a starter switch.

Batt Neg to eng block
Batt Pos to Solenoid terminal
Starter Terminal to Batt Pos with on/off switch in line as the starter switch
Coil Pos to Batt Pos
Distributor (Pertronix) Neg and Pos to Coil Neg and Pos

In order to preserve battery life when periodically starting the engine, how do I wire my BOSCH 55 Amp alternator into the setup above?

Cheers

[Harv]

Funny, I just got done kicking mine in the guts on a stand. Ears are still ringing.

I wouldn't bother wiring in the alternator.

Most of the time when you kick it in the guts, it will take a fair amount out of the battery. You might get six or so starts, depending on how cantankerous it wants to be. Most of the time running (on the stands) is spent at idle, with the alternator putting out bugger-all if anything. Unless you intend running it for a fair while at decent revs, you won't charge the battery.

Invest in a trickle charger, charge the battery when your done with it then take it off charge and leave it sitting there ready to go for next time (no need to leave it permanently on charge). Alternatively, swap the battery into your daily after you are done. Another alternative is to just jump it off your daily.

Cheers,
Harv

[Lex68]

Howdy Harv's

How's she run?

Sounds logical for the Alt / Batt

Yeh, bloody loud with just extractors too! sound awesome though! Mine was backfiring through the carby, I changed the dizzy and rotor and seems to have fix that, I just need to put a timing light on it. I had to do the 'lock plate to zero and turn the dizzy thing'.

Ive temp fitted ( bodgy for a better word) an exhaust to quieten it down a bit so I can home in on the timing and carby adjustments but have noticed the engine shakes a bit when lowering the revs to try and get a good dle and do these adjustments. I did notice one of the bolts loose on an engine mount and the exhaust does rattle a bit too so I can only assume this is the culprit as it didn't do it with just the extrators?

And those copper crush washers for the drain and metering jet plugs, leaking ! Must of screwed them up on install. When I took them out they looked formed as they should

Sorry for raving on, the rear extension seal around the driveshaft yoke prevents oil leakage, so one would assume if the driveshaft is not installed there will be oil loss from the extension housing, and selector on the gearbox should pointing down and vertical for nuetral ?

Cheers

[Harv]

How's she run?

Not too bad... enough to make my son grin like a Cheshire cat. A foots worth of flame out the headers, and the odd lit-fart back up through the inlet trumpets makes him laugh.

And those copper crush washers for the drain and metering jet plugs, leaking ! Must of screwed them up on install. When I took them out they looked formed as they should

There are two ways to put the washers in: washer into plug then plug/washer into carb, or washer into carb then plug into carb. The first way seems easier, but increases the chances of mooshing the washers. Harder to do with the carb on the car though.

Sorry for raving on, the rear extension seal around the driveshaft yoke prevents oil leakage, so one would assume if the driveshaft is not installed there will be oil loss from the extension housing, and selector on the gearbox should pointing down and vertical for nuetral ?

No driveshaft yoke = gearbox drains out rear extension housing. Put the engine on a (very) slight uphill angle, or duct tape a baggie over the end of the extension. Selector in middle position (almost straight up and down) for neutral.

Cheers,
Harv