Head gasket toque settings.

FB Cruiser · Post by **FB Cruiser** » Tue May 29, 2007 11:43 am

Can any one please help, the new grey motor I have just fitted to my FB seems to have a blown head gasket ( milky coloured oil and no water left in the rad). Can any one tell me the toque specs to pull the head down to once I get the head off and shaved flat and relace the gasket. Any help would be appreciated,cheers PAT.

FB search · Post by **FB search** » Tue May 29, 2007 4:21 pm

Hi there Pat,

The following is according to an original FB Shop manual;

Torque wrench specifications
Cylinder Head Bolts ... ... ... 7/16 in ... ... ... 60-65 lb ft.

Hope this helps

Kind regards
Dominic

EK DAZ · Post by **EK DAZ** » Tue May 29, 2007 7:06 pm

Hi Pat. Before you pull the head off,check the frost plugs behind the sideplate. These will also fill the sump if they are corroded or leaking.
Regards Daz.

FB Cruiser · Post by **FB Cruiser** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 10:48 pm

Can anyone help me, I have just finished replacing the head gasket on my grey motor. I had the head shaved and all new gaskets, I torqued the head down in sequence and fitted the motor up, She started and run great but my problem is that after sitting for a few hours I have gone out to check after work and found that the water from the rad has ended up in the sump again, just like before. I checked the welsh plugs behind the side plate and they seem new. Was I supposed to use a head stud sealer or have I not done something correct. Its just I havent had any experience with greys only red 6cyls. Any advice would be really appreciated, Thanks PAT

strogger · Post by **strogger** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:01 pm

Fb Crusier,

Did you re-torque the head after running for a couple of hours Ie: cold- hot-cold again?

I have had this cause a similar issue to me before.

Good luck.

Strogger.

macca4551 · Post by **macca4551** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:59 pm

Hi.
When you had the head shaved, did you have it vacuum & pressure tested to check that it wasn't cracked. Maybe another possibility.
Kind regards, Steve

gordon · Post by **gordon** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 8:43 pm

After you have run the engine and left it for a while, take the spark plugs out and spin the motor over, seeif any water comes out of the plug holes?
Its best to check the welsh plugs for leakeage visually with the sideplate off and pressure in the system ?

strogger · Post by **strogger** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:11 pm

Have had the rear welsh plug behind the side plate fail. I am replacing both welsh plugs whilst i have side plate off.

You wouldnt read about it, had car booked in for a RWC and i just checked the oil prior to taking up to mechanic to find its milky and my radiator is 1/2 empty.

Can the rear welsh plug be done with the engine in position?

I have replaced the front plug with alot of cursing, swearing and laying over the top of the engine. But i cant seem to get a swing at the rear one to drive it in.

Is there a trick someone can share with me??

Thanks

FB Cruiser · Post by **FB Cruiser** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:59 pm

Thanks Sunny Tim for the reply, well it turns out the block of the grey is stuffed, pulled threads up through the block face,so I have since found and fitted another grey and have it running. Once again thanks heaps for eveyones imput, Cheers PAT

gordon · Post by **gordon** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:30 pm

Grey motor cyl head bolts are different lengths, if any of them are put wrong, could cause this ?

gordon · Post by **gordon** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:38 pm

Strogger,of the side coreplugs on a Grey,the rear one looks like it would have to be the absolute worst ever to get to!
Think this is a motor out job,this probably HAS been done in the past,but with great difficulty Id think
You could try take everything out the wayjack up motor etc.
But I think Id be asking too,anyone else ever done this?

strogger · Post by **strogger** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:51 pm

Thanks for the help everyone.
Have finally replaced the rear welsh plug behind the side plate.

(Make sure you get an imperial welsh plug 1-1/4", not the metric ones 32mm Repco try to push on you, I found out the hard way.)

If you want the job done properly I'd take the engine out, but if your stuck on the side of the road or busting to get a RWC and dont have an engine crane, you can be rough like me.

Access is via the drivers side wheel well. Remove tyre and make up a long drift (450mm long approx.) from 3/4 rio bar or 3/4 heavy wall tube, attached a soft drift end (I was lucky i had a brass seal installer i once made and it fit like a glove.) Lay on your back and hit the sucker in, check frequently to ensure plug goes in square. be prepared for a long job.

As i stated above this is far from an idea situation. So if you can, take the engine out and save yourself some heart-ache and busted knuckles.

Cheers, Anthony

gordon · Post by **gordon** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:06 am

Hmm... blood was spilt, but its good to have this Info. So everyone can benefit

fbekholden.com