Shane's EK

[shanek]

Finished stripping and sanding the roof and rear quarters and ready to put a coat of Single Pack Epoxy Etch Primer on it to keep it all protected while I plod away replacing the floor and fixing all the little rust holes.

[shanek]

Etched primed.

[Trev]

Thats a great looking body .

[Blacky]

It certainly is

Now cut it up

[Devilrod]

It certainly is

Now cut it up

Hahahahahaha...

[bumper]

[ek wazza]

Looking good so far Shane, I am not far behind you in progress on my car. I will post pics too once I get my finger out.

[shanek]

Here are a few shots of my floor pan replacement, after a lot of thought I decided against doing a butt weld and I lap welded it. I welded it on both sides and kept the overlap to a minimum. The weld looks a little shabby because it is a whole lot of tacks all the way around because I was trying to avoid too much heat. I put a tar based chassis black inside the support braces. Hopefully it does the trick.

[michaeljohn1234m]

it's looking good,Shane, your not going to use por15 on the floor,I know if i had my time over again, i would have use por15, instead of tare, but i didn't know about it back then

[shanek]

I used that tar based stuff because it was a convenient pressure pack that I could put inside the supports while I hade it apart. I really like the idea of KBS rust seal, it looks like it would be suitable for the floor inside and out and also maybe the firewall and k frame/engine bay and the boot. Does this stuff look good enough for the engine bay? What does everyone generally use? Gloss or matt.

I guess one thing I need to look at is if I can put it on top of my etch primer, I used a single pack epoxy based etch primer after the car was blasted. The KBS website says you can put anything on top of it but it doesn't mention any compatibility with etch primers or similar. I might have to send them an email. I was also planning on re doing all the seams with a 3M seam sealer so I would have to make sure it is compatible with that too.

[EK283]

Nice work Shane,

To be honest I think the tar based stuff is quite good as it is flexible and extremely water resistant. Lets face it anything inside those hollow members is a bonus.

The only problem with lap welding is that the metal oxidises from the heat and pretty much starts to rust the moment you take the welder away, Obviously you can no longer get in between the two pieces to treat it so if any moisture reaches between the joint rust will start. This is of course me being extremely paranoid and would probably take 20 years to come through but butt welding is my preferred way of putting the pans in, it also takes less welding time.

Overall you are doing an excellent job so far so keep it up.

Regards Greg

[shanek]

It's been a while since I posted, I have done all of my welds by butt welding except for that first pan, once the welder was set up right it was actually a hell of a lot easier. I'll put some pics up soon.

I am spending a bit of time going through the mass of bits I have stacked in the shed since I stripped the car, restoring/replacing as I go. I wanted to ask for some advice on these brackets the go on the k frame and bolted onto the old 3 speed. I now have the 202 with a supra 5 speed and was wondering if I still needed these. My guess is no, as I can't see how they will bolt up to my CRS bell housing. I also have a rodshop chassis kit that will support the box at the rear too.

Any advice would be awesome.

[WayneXG95]

Looking good mate.

[WayneXG95]

It's been a while since I posted, I have done all of my welds by butt welding except for that first pan, once the welder was set up right it was actually a hell of a lot easier. I'll put some pics up soon.

I am spending a bit of time going through the mass of bits I have stacked in the shed since I stripped the car, restoring/replacing as I go. I wanted to ask for some advice on these brackets the go on the k frame and bolted onto the old 3 speed. I now have the 202 with a supra 5 speed and was wondering if I still needed these. My guess is no, as I can't see how they will bolt up to my CRS bell housing. I also have a rodshop chassis kit that will support the box at the rear too.

Any advice would be awesome.

Keep everything just in case you want to go back at any stage.

[shanek]

Does that mean I don't need them on my current configuration???