Hi ...
Can anyone suggest tips or things to look out for, when attempting to remove a Side Plate off a grey motor? Has anyone attempted this recently?
(I want to replace the one that's currently on the car (it's chromed) with a stock grey side plate.)
I'm pretty sure that the Distributor needs to be removed to gain access to the side plate? I'm a little hesitant on this, cause I reckon that if its not placed back exactly - it would throw the timing right out?
cheers
Jamie
Removal of engine Side Plate ?
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Esme
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Hi Jamie.
Removing the distributor is nothing to be scared of. You have timing marks to follow on the flywheel. Just lift the flap covering the hole (behind the distributor) and line the pointer up with the ball embedded in the flywheel. This ball is located 2degrees before #1 TDC (6 deg if hydro), and is provided for setting the ignition timing. When replacing the distributor, make sure the engine is wound around so the ball is aligns with the indicator and when the distributor is fully inserted, the rotor centre mark is aligned with the small groove on the edge of the distributor body(adjascent to #1 lead). Take note that the gear from the camshaft is angled and thus the rotor will turn as the distributor is inserted. also you may have to fiddle the oil pump groove with a flat screwriver so the distributor drops in fully. Also remember that there are three hex head screws at the back of the motor side plate for a very good reason. Make sure you don't put them anywhere else, a screwdriver is near impossible back there!
Have fun
Richard
Removing the distributor is nothing to be scared of. You have timing marks to follow on the flywheel. Just lift the flap covering the hole (behind the distributor) and line the pointer up with the ball embedded in the flywheel. This ball is located 2degrees before #1 TDC (6 deg if hydro), and is provided for setting the ignition timing. When replacing the distributor, make sure the engine is wound around so the ball is aligns with the indicator and when the distributor is fully inserted, the rotor centre mark is aligned with the small groove on the edge of the distributor body(adjascent to #1 lead). Take note that the gear from the camshaft is angled and thus the rotor will turn as the distributor is inserted. also you may have to fiddle the oil pump groove with a flat screwriver so the distributor drops in fully. Also remember that there are three hex head screws at the back of the motor side plate for a very good reason. Make sure you don't put them anywhere else, a screwdriver is near impossible back there!
Have fun
Richard
Cheers Richard ....
I remember that a mate of mine had "fun" doing this about 6-7 years ago when my original engine was rebuilt. We got it in the end - but I do remember it being a bit tricky.
I also remember the ball on the flywheel etc being imperative for correct timing - which I why Im a little hesitant with it. Anyway, hopefully your tips below (and any others that I can pick up from various Manuals that I've got) will get me over the line on this one.
Its one of those things I guess - that once you've done it once, it seems straight forward for next time ....
Cheers
Jamie
I remember that a mate of mine had "fun" doing this about 6-7 years ago when my original engine was rebuilt. We got it in the end - but I do remember it being a bit tricky.
I also remember the ball on the flywheel etc being imperative for correct timing - which I why Im a little hesitant with it. Anyway, hopefully your tips below (and any others that I can pick up from various Manuals that I've got) will get me over the line on this one.
Its one of those things I guess - that once you've done it once, it seems straight forward for next time ....
Cheers
Jamie
Jamie
I found an investment in a white out pen to be useful - marked the timing plate to the motor, then marked the rotor to the dizzy body - removed and marked where rotor ended up due to rotation caused by gears.
There should be no need to adjust oil pump position - this would mean that the timing is out by at least one tooth - can be adjusted by dizzy rotation but means more stuffing around.
Andrew
I found an investment in a white out pen to be useful - marked the timing plate to the motor, then marked the rotor to the dizzy body - removed and marked where rotor ended up due to rotation caused by gears.
There should be no need to adjust oil pump position - this would mean that the timing is out by at least one tooth - can be adjusted by dizzy rotation but means more stuffing around.
Andrew