Generator

Includes wiring and battery, generating system, starting system,
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fb cruisin
Posts: 522
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:51 pm
State: NSW
Location: Newcastle

Generator

Post by fb cruisin »

Hi guys, the bearings in my generator have been making a bit of noise, and it needs to be replaced. After a bit of research it seems I have a rear plug C40 Lucas EJ Holden generator fitted atm. I have sourced a C 390 Lucas which I was told is correct for my model Holden, but the plugs are on the side. My question is would I need to change anything other than the plugs to fit this to my FB ? And apart from that is it a straight bolt in, and start up ?
Cheers Rob
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ardiesse
Posts: 1091
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:57 am
State: NSW
Location: Sydney

Re: Generator

Post by ardiesse »

Rob,

The EJ Lucas generators have the terminals on the side of the generator, so if the one on your car has the terminals on the rear, it's probably from an English car. Frequently when generators are replaced, the auto elec. cuts the fork lugs off the wiring and replaces them with the push-on quick-connect style.

The C40 generators are about 3/16" longer between mounting flanges than the C39s, and so the rear mounting bracket that goes onto the block for EJs is different than FE-EK. The bracket for FE-EK is a normal right-angle bend; the bracket for EJs has a distinct overbent kink in it. Most likely the right-angle bracket won't have been changed over when the C40 generator was fitted, and the rear housing on the generator may have been bent when the mounting bolt was tightened up.

The right generator for FB-EK is the C39Q. If your wiring harness still has the original right-angle fork-style lugs for the generator, good. If not, you'll have to change back to them. When installing the C39, loosen the bolt holding the right-angle bracket to the block.

The voltage regulator is the same for both generators, but the settings are different. The current limit for the C39 is 20 A; the current limit for the C40 is 25 A. Again, since your C40 is a replacement, I doubt that the current limit will have been reset.

Finally, the main cause of generator failure is lack of lubrication and over-tightened fan belt. Put a couple of drops of engine oil into the hole marked "OIL" at the rear of the generator before you install it (and at every oil change afterwards), and leave the fan belt loose. You should have 1/2" play in the fan belt.

Where are you located?

Rob
fb cruisin
Posts: 522
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:51 pm
State: NSW
Location: Newcastle

Re: Generator

Post by fb cruisin »

Thanks for the info Rob.
I'll oil it up, change the connectors, bolt it on and hope it works.
I live in Newcastle,
and I was hoping on finding someone local to reco the old C40 for me and re fit it down the line.
Cheers Rob
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ardiesse
Posts: 1091
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:57 am
State: NSW
Location: Sydney

Re: Generator

Post by ardiesse »

I'm in the northern suburbs of Sydney. I have a few spare C39s if you get stuck, and I think I can get hold of a C40 easily. I'm happy to take a look at your generator if you can get it down to me.
Reconditioning yours depends on what's wrong with it. If the rear bushing wears to the point where the armature "poles", that is, rubs on the pole pieces inside the generator, (loud screeching sound, particularly when the headlights are on) then the generator's pretty much bin-worthy. The ball bearing at the drive end costs a couple of dollars. Worn brushes are easy to replace. Things get expensive after that. Armature rewinds are prohibitive, and if the field coils need re-taping, that's an expensive business.

Rob
fb cruisin
Posts: 522
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:51 pm
State: NSW
Location: Newcastle

Re: Generator

Post by fb cruisin »

So I took the old generator off this afternoon, and you were right about the rear bracket Rob, Its an original FB one and the EJ generator had been forced on, bending the rear alloy casing. After all the info you have given me I believe I may be better of with the original C39Q. So I have it on the bench and have put some oil in the oil hole and will fit it tomorrow. The old generator had 3 wires ongoing to it, which had been changed at some stage. A brown wire which I think goes to the D terminal, a black wire which goes to the F terminal and an external earth. Which went from the body of the generator to the bracket on the regulator. Do I still need to polarize the generator after fitting it by connecting the B and D terminals on the regulator with a jumper lead ?
cheers Rob
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living the dream.
ardiesse
Posts: 1091
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:57 am
State: NSW
Location: Sydney

Re: Generator

Post by ardiesse »

Rob,

It wouldn't hurt to polarize the generator. There's another way that doesn't need a jumper lead though: take the cover off the voltage regulator, and briefly close the cutout relay contacts with your finger. If you do this with the fan belt removed, the generator should spin, in the same direction as the engine rotates. Then replace the voltage regulator cover and install the fan belt.

Rob
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