This has probably been asked a million times already, but after a quick search I'm still none the wiser!
At some stage someone has put the 3 plug sockets and H4 headlights/globes in my FB, and they don't work.
I have power going to the sockets but no lights.
Will I need to get hold of some original sockets and convert them back to candle power, or is there another option that doesn't involve rooting around?
The globes are Phillips H4 12V 60/55W if that makes any difference.
Appreciate any help as electrics really aren't my thing.
Cheers Muza
FB Holden Fernando Yellow/Arctic Beige flash
Stock as a rock
75 series Landcruiser 350 Chev
Not so stock
muza wrote:Also tried new globes and still nothing, high or low beam............
If the wiring is standard, the tan and green wires are both +'ve (one is high beam & one is low beam).
The third wire (black) is the negative, which is earthed at the junction blocks on either side of the inner guards.
It seems odd that you have power, but no lights, because the earths are separate for each side.
I can only suggest that the earth and one of the positives have been mixed up at the socket, and you should double check that the black wire is connected to the negative contact on the socket.
Alan
Member No.1 of the FB EK Holden Car Club of WA (Woo-hoo sweet!)
No idea mate!!
Thats why I'm chasing the original sockets, hopefully they work!
Found some sockets so I'll post if they work, just waiting on globes.
Fingers crossed.....
FB Holden Fernando Yellow/Arctic Beige flash
Stock as a rock
75 series Landcruiser 350 Chev
Not so stock
BLOODY (very) DODGY HEADLIGHT SWITCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Had me stuffed. Only checked the parkers once, must've been fluke that they worked the time that I checked them.
Relieved but pissed off and slightly at the same time
Looks like I'll be hitting fingers up for a switch now, not sockets
Thanks for your help mate
Cheers Muza
FB Holden Fernando Yellow/Arctic Beige flash
Stock as a rock
75 series Landcruiser 350 Chev
Not so stock
muza wrote:BLOODY (very) DODGY HEADLIGHT SWITCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Had me stuffed. Only checked the parkers once, must've been fluke that they worked the time that I checked them.
Relieved but pissed off and slightly at the same time
Looks like I'll be hitting fingers up for a switch now, not sockets
Thanks for your help mate
Cheers Muza
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Yup....got them too mate..see ya this arvo ........Fingers
Don’t you find it Funny that after Monday(M) and Tuesday(T), the rest of the week says WTF?
Bugga - wished I caught this as it came up....
I might just suggest fitting a pair of relays to run your upgraded halogens through.
The original 60/40 globes drew far less through the headlight switch than you are now fitting.
If a fault occurs in anything you change - the headlamp switch has a thermo-switch which will "buzz" as the blade of the switch is heated..... you will get flickering lights - but at least will be able to see enough with them to pull over.....
Please, oh please - do not fit a single relay protected by just one fuse..... if it blows - you have absolutely no lights.....
You can easily fit two relays - one for high beam, one for low - and fit TWO fuses - if a fault develops in either circuit - you will still have the other to stop with.....
You lighting switch then simply becomes the supply to the switch side of the relays..... and will still "vibrate" on/off if a fault exists in the supply to the switch side of the relays......... the relays will "chatter" on/off - but they will give out some light.
The switch itself is entirely mechanical - and opens/closes contacts which run to the tan/green wires mentioned above.
It also supplies power through a white lead to your parking/tail lights and a grey lead to the instrument cluster lighting.
Usually - the rheostat for the guages blows years before any damage to the headlight or park/tail light functions..... turned fully clockwise, it will turn the instrument lights to full..... if they fail anywhere anti-clockwise to this - the rheostat (dimmer) wire coil is broken.
Hope some of this helps......
There is another suggestion I would seriously make to anyone following this thread - purchase an "auto ranging" multi-meter.... cheap as $30 from Jaycar...... set it to volts and it will show exactly whether you have power from/to any switch, wire or connection.... simple as that - no electronics degree needed.
Just push the black tip onto a body earth - and anything you touch with the red tip will show the voltage..... if for no other reason you puchase one of these cheap units - the voltage function will save you heaps and heaps of work - often without even need to remove anything to find a fault.....
