How to install lowering blocks?

[Oldnblue]

Hi all
Have a question relating to my old &*#@, but I assume in this instance the badge won't make a difference to my question.
You may remember I had my XP lowered 2 inches all round recently...front lowered with new Kings springs, and back done by resetting the leaf springs. The front end has settled really nicely but I think the back needs to come down lower (at the moment it has a noticeable rake which I'm not diggin'). The previous owner gave me a set of blocks that he had bought for the car, but I've never installed any myself so am unsure how to fit them correctly.

First question:
Should they come with any kind of rubbers etc, or is it simply the u-bolts and blocks that are required?
Second question:
What is the best and safest way to go about installing them?

I'll be looking at doing the same to my EK in the near future so this is a sort of "trial run" so I know I'm doing it right.
Cheers, Scott

[Craig]

Hi all

First question:
Should they come with any kind of rubbers etc, or is it simply the u-bolts and blocks that are required?
Second question:
What is the best and safest way to go about installing them?

I'll be looking at doing the same to my EK in the near future so this is a sort of "trial run" so I know I'm doing it right.
Cheers, Scott

Nothing wrong with old Fords mate

They dont come with rubbers but the spring pearch rubbers are available through Rares and probably others

its generaly just blocks and U bolts that you need to trim down hack saw or grinder have a fire extingisher nearby and keep the sparks away from fuel tank and lines

OK throw the trolly jack under the diff and once its up throw some axle stands under the chassis rails in front of the front spring hangers if you have a second set put them under the point on the spring hangers where the diff bolts up for backup lower the jack till the car sits on the front set of stands (oh and make sure the front wheels are securly chocked)

Loosen the old U bolts slowly and remove them completly then jack up the diff replace the rubber pads if they are shagged and put the blocks in use the pins on the pearces to locate them and lower the diff fit the new bolts and tighten take it for a drive and retighten then trim the bolts leave enough length to fit a second set of nuts as lock nuts (you will have to buy these separatly as most kits dont come with these as)

Pros easy to change back or change heights if you want cheaper than lowered springs

Cons U bolts in a lot of kits are of dubiouse quality (buy bolts from spring makers EG Carrols to overcome this)
standared spring rate more chance of hitting the bump stops and obviouse legal hassals

[Devilrod]

What Craig said, especially the old &*#@ bit .

Also if you use nylocks you can do away with locknuts.

[Oldnblue]

Thanks guys. Exactly what I needed to know.
Will find some replacement rubbers and lock nuts ASAP, and fit them when I have a day off. Will post photos of the results. The car already looks a heap better than when i bought it (standard height), and the blocks should make it just right.
Cheers, Scott