fbekholden.com

After the little drive yesterday, I noticed the fuel gauge did'nt register anything much at all (although I knew I had at lest 1/2 a tank full) Mad .
So today I thought I'd tackle the fuel sender, I have done this once before on the wagon & that turned out well. So armed with a few tools and a vacume cleaner I started.
After a good cleaning up around the sender cover I removed it then scarped clean the sender outer cover and vacumed the dirt and rust away (remembering that any crap can fall straight into the inside of the tank once the sender is removed).
Once removed you have to drill out the brass rivets on the underside of the sender to access the gut that do the work.
1: everything removed

2: you have to very carefully clean this coil of copper wire to get a good contact ...I use Brasso and a soft cloth.

3: Use wet 'n' dry 1200 grit on the contact then polish the contact as well, also slightly bend up the contact point as well (for a good contact when assembled.)

4: I also wire brush the sender housing inside & out for a good earth on the tank.

5: The cork gasket (the original one from 1961) will dry and shrink and break up, but no need to worry just make another one. I used a sheet of fine rubber but even gasket paper will do.


6: Once the fiddly bit is done you just have to re-assemble the sender and re-rivet the two bits back together, just make sure you use sealed rivets. Make sure all the contact nuts and bolts have been cleaned for a good contact.


Then stick it all back together and watch that fuel gauge work!

Scotty.

superb! thanks Scotty It's now a 'sticky' fuel sender repair...

Stewart

wow that easy....even i could do that..(I think) if not you will get one in the post.. Cheers Mark

Hi Sputzwaggon
I have been reading your post regarding the repair of your fuel sender and intend to give your repair method a go on my 1962 ej Holden.
On mentioning your post to the president of the Illawarra Early Model Holden Club today he also expressed much interest in your idea.
So as all the members in our club may be aware of the means involved in the repair of their fuel senders could we have your permission to copy your post into one of our future club newsletters. Of course we would aknowledge in the newsletter that you were the author of the repair method.
I look forward to a favourable reply.

buttons

Geeze ..sorry Buttons!...I've just seen this post...hav'nt been in this part of the forum for months now..(been to interested in the electrical side )...yeah mate go ahead and print it off...this is a public forum anyway..and if it helps..more power to you.

Scotty.

Hi Scotty,
Just noticed your reply to my request.
I too dont get into this neck of the woods often as I have a 62 model ej and I mainly hang out in that forum.
Thanks for your permission to use the article.

Regards
Dennis

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE...be carefull with fuel and vacum cleaners, please be very concious of not using a vacum cleaner directly in the vicinity of fuel or even worse, fuel fumes.....the combination of running electrical motors and fuel vapours = BANG!

also be considerate of what kind of rubber you use for the gasket, as fuel tends to perish most rubber, hence why Holden used cork in this instance in the first place...you can get a A4 sized sheet of cork sheet to cut your new gasket from most decent auto parts places. Not hard if you use a scalpel to cut the shape.

artyfartymarty wrote:PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE...be carefull with fuel and vacum cleaners, please be very concious of not using a vacum cleaner directly in the vicinity of fuel or even worse, fuel fumes.....the combination of running electrical motors and fuel vapours = BANG!

Oh yeah, I once worked with a bloke who did that trick, he was lucky to keep his right eye.

Scotty

Your a legend, I fixed my sender in the ute today after reading this thread

Thanks

Gazza

Yesterday I noticed that fuel is slowly oozing out of the point at which the sender wire leaves the fuel tank (FB wagon). I'm not 100% about this as there is a round metal cover shielding my view of it. Is it likely that I can fix this with a new gasket?

Great write up Thanks,
Question what are the special pop rivets you need and would you know the size , ive just removed my seized level sensor

G'day Clint,
Not sure on the size but the diameter is smaller than the screws around the outside. If you have a twist drill set perhaps you could try various twist drills (shank) in the hole to work out the diameter required.

Regards
Stephen