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FB daily driver

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 11:57 pm
by FB 60
Hello everyone. Just thought I would share with you my project - a FB daily driver.

The car was purchased back in 2001 and I am the 4th owner.

Wagga Motors originally sold the car to a local in 1960, this fellah used it as his family car until he traded it for a newer model in 1991.

The car was purchased by one of the salesmen who drove it for a couple of months until it ran out of rego. He then parked it under a tree in his yard until it was purchased for restoration in 1993 and was stored in a shed. The restoration did not happen and I acquired it in 2001. (Yep it has taken a while for me to start.)

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As this is a country car there is very littlie rust. Top of tank was rusted due to the couple of years under the tree with a stuffed boot seal.

The interior has the usual wear for its age.

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Back in June last year I decided that this year we need a new car but why waste the dollars on a new car which will lose money as soon as it leaves the car yard?

So the FB project began – I reckon that it will be on the road at a cost of less then 8k – last as long as a new car and still retain some value in 5 years.

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Into the shed and start dismantling.

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Engine removal including cobwebs and years of oil leaks.

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Remove anything that opens and closes.

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Outside for the front end degrease – did wonders for the lawn.:shock:

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Back into the shed and onto the ACME hoist :lol:

(there is an endless chain on the front and 2” roof clearance)

….more to follow

Andrew

Fuel Tank Repair

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 9:58 pm
by FB 60
The motor was disassembled and sent to Repco for reconditioning – whilst we waited we decided to repair the fuel tank.

As I said previously there were some rust holes in the top – main body and sender OK.

The sender was cut out – then the top was cut out leaving the filler as there was no rust holes in that area.

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A new top was cut out of 2mm gal sheet. Including baffle.


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Baffle welded into place.

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The edge was tinned with solder.

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The sender was soldered back in place – used old sender housing as it was still serviceable.

Lid in place – clamped one edge at a time, heat applied and clamps tightened – clamps moved around edge as the sealed section cooled.

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Pressure tested Ok – Applied some paint – just like new, took halve a day, a six-pack and cost less then $20 :D (not including the six-pack) :(

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Andrew

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 11:26 pm
by Blacky
Andrew , you must have balls of steel to take to a fuel tank with an oxy !!!

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 8:27 am
by FB 60
Blacky,

We borrowed some parts from the motor back in 2002 so I figured with the holes in the top of the tank any remaining fumes / petrol would have evaporated by late 2005.........But just to be on the safe side, I sat it next to the missus whilst she had a smoke before attacking it with the grinder / oxy!! :lol:

Andrew

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:02 am
by Blacky
Good thinkin` ! Looks like a pretty good body in the photos , how is it for rust ???

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 7:53 pm
by FB 60
Blacky,

The body is in great nick - the only rust was in the boot - just behind the fuel tank due to the car being under a tree for 2 years with a stuffed boot seal.

The rust section was around 3 inches by 1/4 inch - easy weld job - after the tank was removed - can't be too careful with fuel tanks. :lol: :lol:

Andrew

Motor rebuild

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:07 pm
by FB 60
The motor arrived back in pieces, acid bathed – crack tested bored out .004, crank, cam and fly wheel ground and all other reconditioning work done.

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Cleaning the block before reassembly.

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Checking torque settings

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Installing the new pistons.

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And some time later, nearly complete. :D … we chose to update the timing gear to an alloy type – over the years I have had 3 fiber ones give out, usually in remote locations and at inconvenient times.

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Over the next couple of months the accessories were reconditioned and added to the motor.

Andrew

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 1:12 am
by Blacky
Im tryin to figure this out - when is a convenient time for a timing gear to shit itself ? ?

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 10:37 am
by FB 60
Im tryin to figure this out - when is a convenient time for a timing gear to shit itself ? ?
When the mother in law is visiting - hell, a job like that could take a week - especially if that's the length of her visit :wink:

Under the FB

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 7:10 pm
by FB 60
The next stage was attacking the underneath of the car.

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The diff was removed and the steelwork had all paint,grease and dirt removed using a wire brush fitted to an angle grinder.
Epoxy enamel rust guard was applied, followed by sound deadener. The springs are sprayed with 2k black.
New shackle bushes fitted to springs – I learnt some new four letter words doing that job. :x

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The diff was in good nick, slight oil leak from the pinion oil seal, which was replaced.
No leaks in the slave cylinders – no pitting – honed and new rubbers fitted .Exchange brake shoes, new flexible brake hose and she’s done.


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Four weekends and numerous empties later. :lol:

Andrew

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 7:52 pm
by StemCell
FB 60 - your car is comming along quite well.

I noticed the Black FX in the background of the top pic. was it a past project or are you already getting ready for your next project?

Cheers
StemCell

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:11 pm
by FB 60
StemCell

The FX belongs to my son ... he will have to wait for the FB to be completed before he can move it into the workshop for restoration.

This gives him motivation to help out on the FB :wink: :wink:

Andrew

The front end

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:36 pm
by FB 60
The next stage was attacking the front of the car.

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There was still a large amount of oil, grease and dirt in the front end so it was removed, disassembled cleaned then painted with 2 pak and reassembled.

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The engine bay was sprayed with underbody black. The brake master cylinder was honed and a new kit fitted – the clutch cylinder was pitted therefore needed replacing..

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The steering column needed to be removed to paint the front so I took the opportunity to paint the center part of the console. The colour scheme will be yellow and white.

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Final assembly of the front end. I used a length of threaded rod to compress the springs. The king pins were replaced. No leaks in the slave cylinders – no pitting – honed and new rubbers fitted. Exchange brake shoes, new flexible brake hose


Andrew

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:00 pm
by EK-179
Andrew your a bloody majician! seems liek you will have this car finished in no time-and keep those pics coming- i have been keeping an eye on this project since you started-how many times have you done this before?

anyway keep the good work up-its looking nice!!!

Start of painting

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:13 pm
by FB 60
Thanks Darcy

Had some practice on No2 sons HT and No3 sons Dato then his HQ ute - this was whilst the FB collected dust in the shed :cry:

Actually the motor was going to go into my second FC however as it has a HR front end already fitted we will find something red for it :lol:

So here's some more.

Whilst the FB was on the ACME hoist I decided to paint the sills and the back lower panels. I find it easier to paint at face level.

The 2 pac paint came from a local automotive paint supplier. I took in my yellow and white Trax model and asked them to match the paint. They did a great job – they also tinted the primer/undercoat to the same colour.

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A slight dent in the wheel arch was filled

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Second layer of primer / undercoat.

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Three coats of paint later.

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In between painting, the gearbox was cleaned and a new gasket kit fitted. New oil seal and o ring fitted to the selector levers and a new drive shaft oil seal. New thrust race and a clutch slave kit fitted and she looks as good as new.

Andrew