fbekholden.com

hi guys just wondering if anyone can give me any tips for or against rack and pinion stering wether to put it in front of the crossmember or behind. and is it better to use commodore or torana rack. im gonna be running a red 6 and hq stubs / brakes ect. are there any clearance issues regarding these fitments is it easier to bolt up to column if its in front or behind also cheers wayne

Wayne, having had both front and rear mounted racks in my cars over the years, I would recommend rear mount for sure - better turning circle and no bump steer issues. theres been plenty of discussions about this over the years, have a search on the site and you should find heaps to read.

Fat,

following Blackys advice months ago (maybe years.... maybe need to pull my finger out and get this finished someday) i went the Rear Mounted commodore rack from Rods Racks in Queensland...very helpful bloke, workmanship is top notch, but i havent driven it yet i must add...

I too am running Red 6, with HQ discs..pictures through out my thread of both

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... sc&start=0
(i know i know shameless plug)

I believe the Sump has to be 'massaged slightly' however he can organise that if you send him a sump, and potentially the Oil Filter moved 90 degrees - using the Starfire Filter Adapter...however AustMods (Sisters i think) Pink EK has a red with rear mounted rack and looks to run the Oil Filter in the normal location.

Apart from that he sends a little mounting instructions page with everything you need to know & i thought the price was also quite good.

Cheers
NoMAD

ok thanks for the quick replies. i think ill go the rear mounted type. was going to go this way in the first place but just wanted to check for any issues others might have had first. ive also read that there is a bit of an issue regarding the wheel alignment when using hq stubs. is it really all that bad or only slight. is there a way of rectifying it.cheers again wayne

It depends on what front end setup you go with - the supplier should tell you what steering arms to use to get the correct ackerman angle etc.

Hey Fat,

I have used a front mounted rack also from Rods Racks in QLD. The workmanship and turning circle is brilliant.

got one now .looks awsum just need the outrigger changed now. have to find one somewhere. cheers wayne

Didnt Macca have one ? Hes in West Gosford.

Yo

Been reading through all the different posts re" front rack v rear rack.
Question.
You guys using the front racks...
How did you get the tie rods and steering arms on the rack etc to clear the sway bar tag on the lower control arm ( wishbone)??

I have a front rack set up in the FJ ute and the bloke that has fitted the rack( i believe torana) has ground off the tags so he could get extra lock .. or just so the steering arms off the rack dont foul on the tags when steering turned from side to side.

Found out today the HR front ends are around 62mm between cross member bolts ... FJ is 68mm. I would have thought the HR would have had wider subframes than an FJ

Reddo

The CRS front rack modified HR front I have for the V8 has been modified at the lower control arm/wishbone to allow swaybar fitment.If I knew how to do photies I'd wack a shot up here and show you but I'll give you a call tamorrow arvo and try and describe it over the phone if that helps.

The rack you have reddo is the same as the modified rack I have ( LH/LX/UC Torana ) so the mods would be the same for your application.

In 18 months I am to be let loose onto my next project (retirement) which is an FJ ute - it has the CRS front rack and I am very concerned with turning circle - only the xmember/rack have been fitted and turning circle is equivalent of a dragster....... 3 point turn required for every roundabout.....

May end up looking for a rear rack -

Malcolm - I expect your's is not a CRS mod.....?

frats,
Rosco

yor info re: the crs rack is correct rosco they have pathetic turning circle, in there day they were just an easy bolt in way to get a V8 in yor car or improve yor minor turning/driving in a straight line

Thanks for the replys guys...


I figured that this was the case. It seemed to have reasonable lock when shoving it on the trailer and around the shed... different ball game out in a shopping centre carpark or trying to turn around in a narrow street.

I took the HT column out the other day and slid a standard HR column up in place.. the box is no where near a bolt up fitlike FB/ek. way bigger and bulkier than what the FJ must have had originally.

Given that a standard HR cross member is around 40 or 50 mm narrower than the FJ.
it looks like i will need the original FJ drag link, steering arms, idler arm and tie rod ends etc.. as well as the original FJ steering box if i want to run with the modified ball joint HR cross member, HR discs etc...


Otherwise its run all the front mount rack and pinion bits with Ht column and try and overcome the problem of having one of the steering uni joints right where the right side engine mount wants to be.....ooooooooooo bugger
Centre of that uni joint is 80mm above the cross member ... and that is the exact height of the engine mount centre bolt
On another note ...
Rear racks.. stick back far enough to foul an eh sump....so ...i am think a bit of sump panel beating required . Then ya have to run the steering column unis on a lot steeper angle when the come off the bottom of the column down to the rack ??

Oh if only i had paid a bit more attention when i had the FJ panel van.. 173/5speed. rack and pinion /hr front end....
Probably woulndna done me any good.. dementia is gettin worse..

I DRINK TO FORGET.... AND ITS WORKING GREAT... NOW I FORGET EVERYTHING

Reddo

how big an engine is allowd put a 253 in it

don't whatever you do go back to standard steering it's pathetic