fbekholden.com

ok well after i put my 2inch lowering blocks on and ej wheels we have developed a bit of a scrape.

inspecting yesterday it didnt seem to be the blocks but the brakes. After putting the blocks, the handbrake decided not to work and looking at it yesterday it only half released. I had a closer look and it appeared to be rubbiing against a part of the body. The clip holding it also seems kinda mangled.

I went for a drive this morning and the scraping only seems to be happening under accelleration and going around 90 degree corners at speed.

i am hoping to take it on a cruise tomorrow but i dont wanna ruin anything.

if i got rid of the clip, would the cable be fine just hanging there? and do you think that would solve the problem?

thanks
j

try to get a pic, but i'de guess the clip is there for a reason, unless you've done something drastically wrong i wouldn't say it is anything to do with the lowering blocks as i've lowered FB/EK's much more than 2" with no dramas

ok well i took the clip off and there is no change,
then took wheels off and turned car on, scaping noise from the left rear drum

these are the pictures i have
hopefully it can easily be fixed

Gday J
The brake shoes should both be seated against the
pin & bracket which hold the return springs.

It looks as though the brake pedal has been
pressed without the brake drum on, allowing the
shoes to move out freely.
Cheers
Jeff

so up the top left, it should be kind of clipped in to the thing like on the right?

J wrote:so up the top left, it should be kind of clipped in to the thing like on the right?

Yes

Hey J, it looks as though the shoe has moved up.
Take the drum off the other side to compare who it should look.

ahk well thats done, now the pads are sitting about 10mm away from the edges of the plate,
just cant get the cover back on

oh true
good idea
il go check it out
thanks!

Mate, With the shoe not seated against the post the wheel cylinder has extended (Nothing to hold it back.) due to circuit pressure.

Seat the shoes and attach all springs and then open the bleed nipple to release circuit pressure once it retracts enough to fit drum re-do nipple up.

Nip up nipple. Refit drum. bleed brakes starting at point furtherest from master cylinder.

IF YOU OPEN BLEED NIPPLE YOU MUST BLEED BRAKES.

what about bleeding nipples?

cheers for the advice guys, i have made both sides pretty much identical. But yes i do have a problem with getting the drum on.

by bleeding nipples what do you mean
also bleeding brakes?

thanks

Yep, sorry should have thought out my response better.

Yes, Open Brake bleed fitting (On back of wheel cylinder.) until wheel cylinder contracts. This is to release pressure in wheel cylinder.


Once drums are back on you will need to bleed brakes as you have opened the circuit to atmosphere.

sorry i really have no idea what your talking about, im 16 and have never had my own car before, but i think i am getting the jist.

im assuming bleeding has something to do with this squishy button screw thing...



to bleed the brake i screw in? take it out? or pump the squishy bit?

and after that i put the drum on yes?

and then do it back up

and then i do the same to the other side even if it is good?

Gday J

Before you try bleeding the brakes, try this.

Try to get that rear brake shoe somewhere near its proper position, then
use a large G clamp placed across your brakes from one brake shoe to the other.
Gently do up the Gclamp to push the out of position shoe, back into position.
when you squeeze the shoe's together, it will push out the excess brake fluid
back into the master cylinder, without having to undo the bleed screw.

note:- when using the Gclamp, the shoe should move, do not continue to squeeze with the clamp if the shoe stops moving.

The benifit of this is you will not have to bleed the brakes.

Bleeding the brakes is the process of removing any air bubbles that may enter the system when fittings or bleed screws are undone.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Cheers
Jeff

Ok.

Follow this IF you still cant get drum back over your brake shoes.

1. Ensure wheel cylinder piston is sitting in bore o.k. (Straight and level) should be held in there by brake shoes which are in turn held in place by spring tension.

2. On the back of your wheel cylinder the bleed nipple (Has little black cap.) Black cap is a dust cap. take it off.

3. Undo the nipple / fitting Anti clockwise approx 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. (Wear safety glasses.) brake fluid should come out be careful because it is caustic on paint and stings like all F>>> if you get it in your eyes.

Fluid will ooze quickly or squirt out and your wheel cylinder will contract. Nip up fitting once the pressure has passed.

4. Top up master cylinder with brake fluid.

5. Get some one to help you do this part. They sit in drivers position. Pump brake pedal 10 times and hold the pedal down. (They are not to release pedal until you say you have the nipple closed. Dont want to reintroduce air into the system.)

Work your way from furtherest from master cylinder to closest.
Ie: Pass Rear, Drv rear, Pass frnt, Drv frnt.

To bleed brakes;
Take off dust cap, ensure 2nd person is holding pedal down after pumping and open bleed nipple. careful of fluid. The pedal should go to the floor and a steady stream should flow. If stream has air pockets (Will splutter and fart.) close nipple, driver can lift foot and pump again. Repet same process until steady fluid stream with no air pockets.

Then do each wheel cylinder in order. there must be no air pockets and a good firm brake pedal. Check your master cylinder after each wheel. If it runs out of fluid you will have to start again.

any dramas PM me your number and i will call you and walk you through it if you like.