fbekholden.com

Anyone used or know about Redline synthetic oil, at $129 for 4lt I don't want buy some without prior advice only to find there's a better/cheaper alternative.
Oh btw it's a fairly warm 2litre efi (FFFFFF**d) motor.

Dunno anything about that oil.Probably a good oil, but I wouldn't pay that much for engine oil, ever!!.

Like you said,I'm sure there would be equivalent oils for the engine you have that are just as good and would be far less damaging to your pay packet than that one.

I don't go for expensive oils in any of my cars and have never had trouble with oils in the $25 to $50 price range in all of my cars I have had over time and that includes high performance turboed multi cam jap engines as well.

My thoughts,

Terry.

I use Redline in my Mitsu Evo race car. The engine is regularly run at 1.8-2bar boost pressure and tracked heavily. I can't speak highly enough about it, and personally I believe the price is reasonable as compared to equivalent technology oils.

www.redlineoil.com.au

I can also highly recommend Royal Purple engine oils for high performance drivelines...

www.royalpurple.com.au

For a street car, I'd suggest Repsol Synthetic oil. It's around $60/5L container retail and alot of performance workshops stock it. I use it in my performance road cars. Repsol Cartago transmission oil is also an excellent product.


www.repsol.com.au


You'll find technical specifications and a list of distributors on the websites.

Jarrod.

Thats an over kill in any engine built prior to the 90's. Synthetics are mainly used for performance or tight tolerance engines, most manufactures are heading the synthectic way to improve on emissions and fuel consumption.
In saying that it will not improve the economy in early or charf cutter style engines, but will in fact, cause lots of rattles you may never herd before and oil leaks galore, due to synthetics nature of finding there way into every nook and cranny.
The other main reason for manufactures to use Synthetic blends is prolonging the service interval by dragging them out some (like the 15 to 20000 KM mark). Which even the oil companys marketing there products say that it way to long for Synthetic interval periods. Go figure.

Regards John

True,

I've heard alot of manufacturers actually recommend you use a mineral oil for the first couple of oil changes as well, before switching to a synthetic. Subaru, for example, certainly do.

oldnek I have gone & figured - it's a rebuilt Cosworth RS2000 EFI engine so I guess thats a performance or tight tolerance engine which is why I asked the question.

I was waiting for this old gem to rear its head again.

I agree with Terry and John - the tolerances in our old buses have quite a bit of "comfort" built in - especially if the engine has traveled...............

I run Mobil 1 in my Corona - have done since the import engine went in - I was told that if an engine is still very close to running in tolerances, there would be an advantage of keeping synthetic up to it but..................

If you have an older engine which has built up a lot of sludge, varnish and goodness knows what else - synthetic may dislodge a lot of it and in fact create tolerances which were previously accounted for................

In my opinion, it would seem more appropriate to use a reputed brand of oil and change oil even more frequently (especially with a grey not fitted with any oil filter) thus reducing the chances of contamination and sulphur build up due to short occasional trips such as many of our vehicles suffer..................

For the amount quoted, that would be copious quantities of oil to clean up the galleries without dislodging the heat imparted varnish coatings to many of the non-surface internals...............

just my two bob's worth.

frats,
Rosco

blue ute wrote:oldnek I have gone & figured - it's a rebuilt Cosworth RS2000 EFI engine so I guess thats a performance or tight tolerance engine which is why I asked the question.

Blue Ute.

You are right: So I hope you haven't taken my comment the wrong way!
But
You mentioned a warm 2ltr. I had assumed it could mean a stocker with a mild cam, Carb and Exhaust, or slightly bored, port/polish, again cam?carb?exh? .......on the other hand you could have had Ten Grand+ full works motor, true bored, nitrided crank/rods, balanced,oversize forgies, monster cams?port/polish with oversize valves etc etc etc and running 20psi boost, with Exhaust and EFI management to suit.
Still with that amount of work it would be built loose, for performance and reliability so with that! I still would think that $130 for 4ltrs is overkill.
And for the grey, well theres definately no need.

There are many brands of Synthetics out there. Some good and others not so good, and just because they sponsor motor sport and teams dose'nt mean there good.
The long and short of it, is that which ever brand you choose, the bottom line is there are only 4 major players for there base oil use and are all pretty much multi grade base stocks that they use.

All the individual manufactures add there own little secret concoctions of special blends and additives, detergents, thickners, friction modifiers, suspenders and so on, to produce there own branding of oils.
So I'm talking about quality and price, being the root overkill here. You can purchase 5 ltrs of super quality Syn at half that price you mentioned..............The market is being absolutely flooded by oil manufactures at the moment, and lots claiming more HP over others and better fuel consumption.
In the end its the protection, quality, durabillity, cleanliness and price in your choice for the right oil.

Over the years, I have tried quite a few well branded Syns in my own vehicle and there have been no noticable increases in power output during Dyno testing after the 500km oil change period or gains in fuel efficiency. The other area Syn was stand out in, was the noise from the engine.
I actually had a Well Known brand sales rep come in and take note of the excess engine noise, after we did a Gen 3 service with Owner supplied Synthetic. He was quite shocked, especially just before that I asked him the ??, why are engines more noisey with Synthetics. (He had no answer)
The good thing is though if you have a smokey engine, a heavier weight Synthetic oil will reduce visual smoke from the tail pipe and breather, but will still burn it.
But personally I'd rather replace my engine oil every 1500kms with mineral oil, than spending that sort of money on 4Lts of Syn.
Not that I would do!, but I do drain and replace the oil at 5000km intervals as well as the filter on all my vehicles as well as customers, with Synthetic changes at 7500Kms.

Regards John