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Hi All
Pulled the water pump out of Pamela today as she is leaking from what looks to be a drainage point on the underneath of the pump. Curious as to whether this is just due to the fact she's been dry for about 15 years and needs a new seal or if I should just replace the whole thing anyway?
It appears that there was a screw or plug initially where the hole is?
Also, when replacing the pump should I just use a gasket or goo it as well?

Thanks for everyone's help, you guys are a godsend for a newbie at this!

Richard

A lot of older vintage car water pumps had greasable bearings or bushes in the water pump and would have a grease nipple or an oil cup on top of the pump near where the bearing/bush is to allow for lubrication.

The hole you are refering to in the grey motor water pumps is a drain hole in the water pump to let out water that is getting past a leaking seal.If there wasn't a drain hole the water would get into the bearing and very quickly stuff it.

Sometimes a leaking seal can stop leaking after a while by itself or with the help of various radiator stop leak products but they are really only a temporary band aid solution.The problem is still there and that is the seal needs replacing.

In the old days a new water pump kit would have been pressed in which included a new seal,bearing,shaft and sometimes an impeller.
However,to my knowledge, pump repair kits are no longer made and NOS kits are hard to come by.
Nowdays most people replace the whole pump with a new aftermarket pump.

These range in price from about $110 to around $150 depending where you buy them from.There is a seller on Ebay selling them for $110 at the moment ( plus postage ) and that is a fairly good price.New gasket should be with the pump.Don't fit a pump without a gasket as it will leak.

I haven't replaced a pump for years but I always used "Permatex" brand gasket glue when refitting a pump.Doesn't have to be "Permatex" brand, just as long as its a gasket glue suitable for cooling system gaskets.
Whatever you do DON'T use "silastic" or similar silicon based sealant as it can get into the cooling system and clog it up if you use too much of it.

Hope that helps,

Terry.

Terry is right richard those water pumps come out with those holes on the bottom to let the water or coolant out when the pump is leaking for one reason or another.However when its leaking out of that hole underneath your up for a new pump.

Cheers for the info i thought as much, but good to confirm that this is the case. Am going to grab one off evilbay, i have found the ones on there for $110 and will grab one shortly.

Thanks again for your help.

Richard

Hi Richard,
can't add much more to what Terry and CB have posted.

Did you try to "wobble" the fan/pulley for movement - often this will give an indication of a dodgy bearing, often causing the seal to perish.....
Just check that the fan bolts are tightened prior to this test.

If you are going to paint your fan pulley, use the original fan belt for a while until the paint wears from the belt face of the pulley - your new belt will last longer and you will only need to re-tighten once.......

I would suggest buying 2 (two) fan belts - one to fit after you do the job and one for the boot.
I often have a chuckle when it comes to spare fan belts - people put the new one in the boot..............just in case.... if you can't afford two, better to put the new one on, I feel..........

When it comes to fitting the belt and adjusting tension, don't over-tension it.
I think deflection (the amount by which you can depress the belt down from a straight line) is only 3/8" on the "leg" between the fan pulley and generator.
Modern belts probably have better "grip" than the original types - this possibly means you can get away with slightly less.......
If it is too loose, it will slip and you will hear a great squeal for a couple of seconds - usually as you rev the engine up from idle........

The greatest load on the belt with a generator system is the fan itself - particularly on acceleration - this is where fan belt "slip" usually shows up......

The purpose I suggest not over-tensioning is to avoid putting too much load on the bearings - both water pump and generator........



frats,
Rosco

Agree with Rosco,

Better to have a loose belt, that is, loose to a certain extent, but if it flies off the groove then it's too loose .

The Gregorys workshop manual description gives a 3/4 inch deflection with thumb pressure applied between the pulleys however in the illustration below showing how to do it there is mention of a 3/8 inch deflection??

Maybe the 3/4 deflection is for a used belt and 3/8 inch for a new belt as a new belt will stretch after a few minutes of use.



Terry.

Thanks for the advice guys, picked up my new water pump today will put it in tomorow night.

Also picked up some new plugs, leads, rotor button and points all of trhis will be going in tomorow night also then its time to turn old pamela over again and see how she goes.

When putting ne Gasket in the water pump should i let the Gasket goop set before filling her up with water or doesnt it matter, also when putting the top back on the thermostat should i gasket goop this aswell as putting the new gasket in?

Cheers

Richard

Gday Richard
Just use a thin smear of permatex on both sides of each gasket
It should be fine to use it straight away
Cheers
Jeff

Cheers Thommo