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Dumb question for today: can the sump be removed from an FB/EK with the engine still in the car? Posts on the forum say no, but Dad's memory says yes. He could be confusing my grandfather's EK sedan with his own FC ute though. From what I understand, you can remove the sump on an FE/FC (by jacking the front of the engine up) but not an FB/EK.

I need to find the source of low oil pressure in Grace's ute, and am trying my darndest not to pull the engine.

Plan of attack is to:
a) replace the battery that Number One Son pilfered.
b) retest again by firing with an oil pressure gauge fitted.
c) measure and mark dizzy height relative to block.
c) turn motor to fire on #1, remove dizzy and check for sheared dizzy gear pin (should be impossible... the dizzy spins).
d) check dizzy for sheared oil pump drive tang (unlikely).
e) check dizzy height versus oil pump socket depth to ensure engaged (unlikely to have changed).
f) spin oil pump with long screwdriver and check it is free (assume that if the gears jammed then there should have been a mess with the dizzy gear pin).
g) put oil pump primer in a drill, wiz it up and see if the gauge registers oil pressure.
h) swear, remove sump.
i) check oil pump screen is clear.
j) check oil pump relief valve is seated.
k) replace oil pump with one of my overhauled spares.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv,
Something i remember, those pesky rope seals. I replaced them twice with the grey in the car.
However I cannot recall if the sump come out, but in saying that I replaced the then cork gaskets at the same time.

You would probably be surprised how quick you can pull the whole thing rather than spending hours working it out !

Greg

You'd have to jack it up a fair way I reckon. Considering you have to clear the main caps, steering drag link, and oil pump, it's a big ask.

Has it always had low oil pressure, or has it just fallen off lately?

Has it always had low oil pressure, or has it just fallen off lately?
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Conundrum here…….

https://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewto ... &start=225

I removed PART of the sump in Shake Rattle n Roll by applying internal pressure with #1 con rod

Hi Harv.
Sorry to hear about your issue.
I read what happened on the other post.
Don't muck around trying to get the sump off.
Sure, whack a new battery in it and diagnose further.

I would start it up and rev it with the Oil gauge installed, to verify the pressure switch.
If the Oil pressure is zero, damage is done.
Don't run it for too long with no Oil pressure.
The pressure should build with revs, 10 psi per 1000rpm, I believe.
If the Oil pressures builds or spikes from low oil pressure after reving, the pickup could be sucking air.
I am sure you wouldn't be using a thin oil grade.

You might get away with not machining the crank after sorting out the Oil pressure issue.
Engines can run for a short while without Oil pressure without load.
The tight spot in the Engine when you turn it over by hand as you described indicates a mechanical issue which will require careful inspection.

Another thing you should do I'd drop the Oil and look for white metal shavings.
Tight spots in every revolution as you turn it over indicates crank related and not top end/cam related.

On the other side if you have Oil pressure when you start it, keep the revs up, listen for noises.
If the Oil pressure is low but no mechanical noises, you might be lucky and the Oil pick up could be sucking air.
Blocked pick up is unlikely unless you a lie running a bypass Oil filter with a dunny roll in it.
They don't make dunny rolls like the used to.

I had an EJ dissy in my hand yesterday and I concur Oil pump drive tang breakage is unlikely.
Check the dissy has popped up somehow, maybe bending the distributor adjustment plate, never heard of it before but possible I suppose.
If you can't solve the issue by fault finding rip the Engine out and decide which spare will go in.
Unless there is no damage to the crank of course.

I hope these comments are useful without being discouraging.

All the best.

FE-FC front crossmembers allow the sump to be removed with the engine in place, provided you drop the steering linkages out of the way. FB/EK front crossmembers don't allow you that luxury.

I'd go at the task in the order: remove distributor, remove oil pressure switch, f (drive oil pump with long screwdriver), see whether oil comes out, g (drive oil pump with drill), see whether you can keep the oil in with your thumb, d, e.

If oil comes out after step f, but you can hold it in with thumb at step g, the relief valve is probably sticking open.

Rob

Rob, you say FE/C front crossmembers are different to FB/EK - in what way ? Will an FB crossmember and front end retrofit into an FC ? I am about to sell an FB front end to a customer who is planning to fit it into an FC - would hate to see them do it all up and then it doesn't fit

Blacky,

FE-FC crossmembers have a different profile than FB-EK right under the engine: they're not as tall, and the top surface slopes down to the rear. This allows you to remove the sump with the engine in place. FB/EK front crossmembers have a more uniform rectangular profile.

But I'm almost completely certain an FB/EK front suspension is a bolt-in replacement for FE/FC. The subframe members are the same in both series, it's only the inner guards and front apron that differ. GM-H and backward compatibility again . . .

Rob