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I really, really hate flexible fuel lines. It makes my teeth hurt when I see vehicles plumbed up with long lengths of either rubber hose or braided line. Using some flexible hose though is inevitable - something has to flex between the hard lines on the body/chassis, and the engine which rotates a little as it torques. I like nice short lengths, neatly done.

The FED and a few other projects are going to need something more than rubber hose. Probably stainless braided, Teflon inner lines. I promise not to use the red and blue anodised fittings that scream 1980's street machine . As far as I can see, no-one makes short lengths (around 4-6") of premade hose with AN fittings. It is all DIY from bulk hose.

I'm geared up to make hardline (straighten, cut, bend and flare) from 1/4" to 3/4" in both AN and SAE. That gear gets a lot of workout on brake and fuel lines. I also have the aviation-grade tooling to "bead" small hardline so that rubber hose can be slipped over and clamped in place. One thing I have never done though is making my own braided line.

The various hose manufacturers (Earls, Proflow, Aeroflow, Speedflow etc) have how-to information on how to make the hose up. Looks pretty simple. They also have a huge amount of tooling that is quite expensive... anything from simple hose shears to fancy aluminium vice setups, dies etc. I will make a few hoses (perhaps 40 or so over time), but I won't be doing it nearly as often as I use my other gear. If I can get away with using basic tooling I will.

Before I either:
a) send myself more insane trying to make the hoses without the right tooling, or
b) spend a small fortune on tooling I don't need
does anyone have much experience in making up their own braided lines, and if so what tooling would you recommend?

Cheers,
Harv

My neighbour owns a Pirtek so I just get him to make them and he hangs them on the fence in a bag when they are done

If they are going to be used in braking systems they need to be stamped with an approval number so you cant legally make your own anyway.

I guess that doesnt help a lot .............

Personally I prefer speed flow but race works also do pretty good gear now, they are very simple to use but you need to decide which brand you are going to use as there are slight differences in hose compatibility between the brands.. all the companies make relatively affordable vice jaws and the
Spanners that you will always need as you start use in AN fittings.. I just use a 1mm cutting disc on the angle grinder with masking tape to stop the braid from fraying…


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Blacky wrote: Fri Mar 01, 2024 9:52 am My neighbour owns a Pirtek so I just get him to make them and he hangs them on the fence in a bag when they are done

Lol. The neighbour is in to racing pigeons. Might not help too much on hoses

gledge wrote: Fri Mar 01, 2024 9:54 am Personally I prefer speed flow but race works also do pretty good gear now, they are very simple to use but you need to decide which brand you are going to use as there are slight differences in hose compatibility between the brands.. all the companies make relatively affordable vice jaws and the
Spanners that you will always need as you start use in AN fittings.. I just use a 1mm cutting disc on the angle grinder with masking tape to stop the braid from fraying…

Cool. I have the aluminium spanners from doing AN hardlines, and grinder (for making my welding look professional... a grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't ).

Looks like I may only need a new set of softjaws.

Cheers,
Harv

Amazing coincidence. Opened this up while sitting in at Pirtek Fyshwick getting a braided clutch hose made. Sorry Harv, it's full length master to hydraulic throwout bearing.

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I'm a Raceworks distributor & based at Auburn, I make these all the time.

One thing to keep in mind is that brake hoses for street registered road cars, regardless of whether they are factory-style rubber or braided must have crimped ends. The ones which are made using removable AN fittings are not street legal.

As mention above, aftermarket braided hoses must also have the engineering approval number stamped on them.

Dr Terry

Brett027 wrote:Amazing coincidence. Opened this up while sitting in at Pirtek Fyshwick getting a braided clutch hose made. Sorry Harv, it's full length master to hydraulic throwout bearing.

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What was the cost at pirtek Brett?


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

My bad. Should have mentioned that I am interested in making up braided lines for anything other than brakes.

Truth be known, I prefer the crimped-end rubber hoses for brakes… and no need for flexible brake lines on the FED

Cheers,
Harv

$100 made up Clay. It's same as the Mal Woods bearing hoses but with a clearish plastic coating over the brades. Just lazy me really as I have the gear to make pipe one but was looking for a different look.

You better hit someone up for a race works book Harv they Come in very handy


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Sounds good Brett, not lazy mentally. There is a guy local that makes up seedpro I think. Glen will know. Not cheap I hear. Pirtek sound a good option.

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Hi Harv,

Motorsport connections in Seven Hills is where I go.

Good quality, I have tried other makes and I am happiest with them.

There are also different hose types and different fittings, so they need to be matched.

Regards Greg

Good advice, and thanks all.

Ended up going with Speedflow hose and fittings. Parcel arrived with -6, -8 and -10 gear, and looks good. I had forgotten how good (and quick) their customer service is. Fitup process is pretty simple provided I take my time.

Cheers,
Harv

Top shelf good choice


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Orright, I am clearly doing something wrong in making these hoses up.

For once, I read the destructions first and I'm am following Speedflow's destructions to a tee.


I bought -6, -8 and -10 hose. Started with the -8 stuff. Hose had been cut by Speedflow, and was neatly wrapped in masking tape. Unwrapped it carefully. Nice and round, no boogery braid ends. Took the female fitting and screwed it onto the hose. There is no thread, just gentle twisting. Oiled the inside of the female thread, and the hose internal. Gave the hose internal a gentle tweak with some long nose pliers to flare the rubber a little. Marked the end of the fitting with masking tape. Stuck the female fitting and hose into my fancy ally vice jaws. Grabbed the male fitting, lubed the thread and the barby bit that goes inside the hose. It's not really barbed, but that's what I will call it. Pushed the male fitting into the female, and started the thread. Noted just how far in you can push the hose into the female fitting and still get that thread to start. Tightened the male fitting using my fancy ally spanners, got the 1mm gap, alligned the flats. Checked the tape - the hose had not pushed out of the female fitting.

Felt quite proud of myself. Thought I'd try the -10 stuff.

Same process, but this time round as I was tightening it up the hose wanted to push out of the female end. Tried several times, even tried pushing the hose into the female end as I was tightening. No go.

Perhaps the hose end was boogery. Tried the other hose end, same deal.

Meh, maybe the -10 stuff is difficult. Tried the -6 and same result. The -6 was slightly oval before I started, mebbe Speedflow had used a parrot-beak type cutter. Used the Dremel and a cutoff wheel/tape to cut a new hose end, same result. No matter how I go at it, the hose wants to push out of the female end. I must have fluked that first -8 hose.

Checked that with no female end in place, the male barby bit goes into the hose fairly easily.

Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong please before I admit my ignorance and call Speedflow?

Cheers,
Harv