fbekholden.com

My recent acquisition from western NSW where it spent it’s last years as a paddock basher most likely. Rust is there but not too bad- the worst of it is around the gearbox crossmember.

Originally an all Grecian White special with a sunvisor, the plan now is to turn it into dedicated, unregistered, 1/8th mile budget straight liner with the largest capacity n/a straight 6 I can fit in. For something different I want to run a floor shifted manual with the simplicity of three gears or less (the all aluminium cased 2 speed drag boxes from the US really catch my eye but I'll have to save up for that one!)

I would like to run it on methanol as it’s the greatest smell on earth.

Lightweight and simplicity are the two biggest considerations I want to prioritise but in saying that I don't want to cut it up and add too much fibreglass (unless the 'glass doesn't detract from the looks that is).

At this stage I’m thinking 265 Hemi for sheer violence but haven’t ruled out 292 Chev or a 202


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sounds good and this forum loves pictures and updates

Mr Black can tell you everything you need to know about the original Shake Rattle & Roll EK if your looking for info there...

For straight 6 methanol action, check out the Tastuned Vauxhall Gasser 'The Convict' running a Blown 250 Xflow.

Cheers
Nathan

NoMAD wrote: Wed Oct 16, 2019 2:38 pm sounds good and this forum loves pictures and updates

Mr Black can tell you everything you need to know about the original Shake Rattle & Roll EK if your looking for info there...

For straight 6 methanol action, check out the Tastuned Vauxhall Gasser 'The Convict' running a Blown 250 Xflow.

Cheers
Nathan

Cheers Nathan, I finally just worked out how to post pics!

Thanks for the suggestions, I'm keen to check out anything relating to old school drag cars and hear about the original Shake Rattle & Roll- finding old info on the net isn't terribly easy.

Cheers- Mick

there a thread on here in the my FB/EK section that discusses the life and demise of Shake Rattle n Roll

I was considering making a gasser out of my EK 2 door looooonnnnnggg term project and was planning a 1 piece fibreglass front cut off at about indicator height

I had a bit of a look through but couldn’t find it Blacky. The coupe I’ve seen and it looks great.

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... g+on+empty

there you go mate...

also hurry up with that Fibreglass front end... i know a few people are interested haha

Cheers
Nathan

Haha! Yes I can just picture it now; one piece guards/bonnet, hinges behind the front bumper with painted on headlights... mmm

Thanks for the link

NoMAD wrote: Wed Oct 16, 2019 10:07 pmalso hurry up with that Fibreglass front end... i know a few people are interested haha

I've got a set of fibreglass moulds to make front guards, bonnets, bootlids and front doors. They were used to make Gabby Curry's SS/A screamer:
https://www.andrewsracecars.com.au/gallery46.html

I want a set of panels made for my meth monster project, though focus so far has been on getting the driveline sorted. I know very little about fibreglassing, and figure that guards/bonnet/bootlid/doors would be beyond my capability. I'm thinking about contacting one of the fibreglass mobs to see if they will do a run. My drama at the moment is time... it could take me a few years to getting around to it. If someone is serious and wants to borrow the moulds, I'd be happy to do so.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv
Fiberglassing isn't that hard I did several courses some year's back in fact the asked me not to come back as i was not letting any new comers in . The main thing is to prepare the moulds properly which means a lot of hand waxing lots of coats 'the cost of materials & equipment. You could save some money if you got a fiberglasser to do it if you did the polishing yourself it is a carnarvon wax siliken free he would have all the other stuff needed on hand. If you want to come to Newcastle I could show you but it's just like polishing your car only with a bit more care

G'day Harv,

I had read one of your Meth Monster posts regarding the moulds you'd acquired and thought that was a great acquisition!

The panels on Gabby Curry's car look very good for fibreglass copies, I find the separate panels always look better than the single front clip mould that some cars have. I imagine it's easier making separate panels rather than the whole cumbersome one piece front clip. Like yourself Harv I don't have much experience with fibre glassing (apart from lots of bogging rust holes of course) but for the weight saving it's worth learning. In my case I have a few rusted out/stripped bonnet threads so I'm up for a bit of mucking around if I want to keep the steel one anyway.

One of my jobs while I'm tinkering with the car is going to be weighing each individual item as I take it off. I'll create a spreadsheet or similar of my findings so in future people can get a rough idea of what gains they're likely to see by replacing original components with aftermarket/lightened parts.
I'd also like to document the basic dimensions (length, width, height etc.) of common engines along with their weights and distances between key mounting bolt holes. There seems to be a lack of this info on the web or if found it's generally hearsay or ambiguous

Well if there was enough people keen to get a run, i would up for a set of guards and bonnet for sure... but being on the west doesn't really help

sorry for the thread hijack

Cheers
Nathan

Not a hijack at all Nathan- I’m very keen to learn as much as I can about the process and have watched a few good aussie videos ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iOZkwrfpit8) and ordered the book considered the ‘bible’ on fibreglassing race car panels. I would like to add two moulds to what Harv already has, namely front and rear bumpers and boot lid. Postage to WA would be better than steel items!

Hi Mick & others
I just watched the video and it was right but for a few things
!/ the mekp is very DANGEROUS don't get it near your eyes you will go blind real quick
2/it's best to tear the cloth rather then cut were it overlaps the fiberbers will mat into gether better
3/ when separating the laminate from the mould don't use anything metal it will damage the mould (use wooden wedges and you can use a little compressed air at a low pressure)
4/ you will need a lot of acetone to clean your tools it evaporates very quickly so keep it sealed or covered with some plastic.
5/ the book is very good covers the topic very well
6/ i spray the pva and gelcoat it gives a better finish without brush marks
7/the gelcoat has to be thick or it will get what they call tripe the book will tell you how thick
hope i am not sticking my nose in to much

Methyl Ethyl Keytone Peroxide 1 to 2% if I recall. Pretty sure it is the same hardener as used in polyester filler, as this is polyester resin and glass fibre you are talking about. Used widely in surfboard manufacture since the late 1960s. I’m very familiar with using it to laminate thin layers of woven cloth over solid closed cell foam to build and repair boards.

Also used to build sailing dinghy and speedboat hulls going back, using the the thicker mat with moulds as per this application for car panels, as well as industrial pipe work for petroleum and chemical processing plants.

Polyester resin was never particularly cheap but has now got rather expensive. It is pretty toxic stuff but limited exposure shouldn’t be a problem. A bigger problem is the dust produced when sanding laminated glass. Definitely wear a P2 mask or wet rub when doing so.

The basic resin is referred to as laminator. There are a few additives used to change the properties, either so it can be sanded to a smooth finish or obtain a high gloss. Probably don’t need either of these properties if you are moulding.

There were quite a few glass guards getting around for early Holdens going back. Once painted they were indistinguishable until you looked underneath or gave it a tap.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

We considered the acetone too expensive when I was a kid. Instead we raided the laundry cupbosrd, making an abrasive paste of palmolive and Ajax powder which mixed with the congealed resin and took it off the fingers and brush bristles to an extent. Despite the claims of Marj it didn’t soften your hands while you did the “dishes”. Please excuse my irrelevant ramblings. Can’t help myself.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie