fbekholden.com

Hi All, new to the forum but have had my ek for a couple of years now.....at the stage of a complete rebuild with everything removed that can be.....I am looking for some advice on stripping of the shell should i "Sand blast, Soda Blast or low pressure garnet blast", body is not too bad as the car has been of the road for 30 years, all bolt ons will be replaced with rust free panels on my business trips to OZ.

Have started the process of cleaning all the parts and have now found a passion for things that are powdercoated....

Welcome to the forum mate, there are pros and cons for all types but I prefer sandblasting , provided the blaster knows what he is doing. I remove the paint from large flat areas by sanding with 36 grit then blast the gaps

Cheers..... have been quoted $2000 including gst to do a low pressure garnet blast to"white metal" and prime, they are going to use "Keyphos" to prime????

I am getting a mate to rebuilding the original 138 for the EK but want to upgrade it a little, i have a set of twin carbs and a triple carb manifold as well, what sort of changes to the internals should i do to make the car run better with the twin or triple carbs. I am not delusional it will never be a racer or a drag car i want it for cruzing and a point of difference but still period...

Is there a standard cam that i can buy? According to the ownership papers i am the 3rd owner and the 49 miles are original.....

I am also trying to find out the paint colour but have no codes to follow, under the chrome the car looks to be a very pale blue or greyish blue???? It has a red interior that is very good condition surprisingly.

Usand41971 wrote:I am getting a mate to rebuilding the original 138 for the EK but want to upgrade it a little, i have a set of twin carbs and a triple carb manifold as well, what sort of changes to the internals should i do to make the car run better with the twin or triple carbs. I am not delusional it will never be a racer or a drag car i want it for cruzing and a point of difference but still period...

Is there a standard cam that i can buy? According to the ownership papers i am the 3rd owner and the 49 miles are original.....

I am also trying to find out the paint colour but have no codes to follow, under the chrome the car looks to be a very pale blue or greyish blue???? It has a red interior that is very good condition surprisingly.

Depends a bit on how far you want to go with the internals. It costs a lot of money to go fast slowly in a grey

If it was mine, I'd start with a good set of headers (or extractors), and a free-flowing exhaust. Figure around the $500 mark for extractors/exhaust, $1500 if you want period headers.
Next off the rank would be having the cylinder head rebuilt - larger valves, double valve springs, ported out and shaved. Figure $800-1600.
Next up for me would be to change the cam. Depends a lot on what you want to drive it for (and your patience for crappy idling). Take a look at Camtech, who do everything from a 648B-109 (fairly standard) through to a 608 (lumpy as all hell): http://www.camtechcams.com.au/hold_6cyl ... _grey.html. I'm not reccomending Camtech, but I like the way they advertise all their cams, giving you a feel for what each one does. Figure $300 for the cam and gaskets with some DIY.

Plenty more options after that (more cubes, strengthened bottom end, rollie rockies, supercharge it etc) but the costs keep stacking up pretty quick.

Cheers,
Harv

Nice start, if you need a hand getting parts back from aussie let me know, I will also be stripping the place in the next couple of years and work shipping cars internationally....
currently have a long term project FB for my son, but I used to run a 138 with twins and extractors in my EK for many years, it went pretty well I would think other then that you might be as well giving it longer legs via gearbox/rear end changes I'm one of those people who always thinks things are revving so always felt mine needed an extra cog or more suitable rear end gears for highway use.
Where in NZ are you ?

Hi Mate, i am in the south island, Rangiora....

I just bring the parts back on the plane, i have brought back all the rust repar panels i need, 4 doors rust free, 1 boot rust free and a right hand guard that is pretty good condition.

Here is a list of powdercoated thnigs already...

High Gloss black:
Complete front end
Diff housing and backing plates
Pedal assembly
Front belly pans

High Gloss silver.
Bonnet hinges
Bonnet housing

High Gloss white.
Steel rims
Door hinges
Boot hinges

Looking at getting new leaf springs made and lowered about 2 inches, lowering blocks look sus when it will go through the rego stage....as for the colour that i am painting it i really like the Ble wagon that is on this site with the white roof, does anyone know what the colour is???? I have a 2005 WRX STI that is blue also but no sure if i want it the same.....

There lots of blue wagons with white roofs - can you be more specific ???

This one......

Usand41971 wrote:This one......

Could be Snowcreast White over Shailmer Blue ?

SunnyTim wrote:That's Stingray's old wagon from memory it was Twilight Turquoise.....
Tim

Damn Tim , how can you remember this stuff ?????

Rangiora, I used to get down to Muscle car madness every year but haven't been for a few now, good part of the world, will keep an eye on your build.

Usand41971 wrote:Cheers..... have been quoted $2000 including gst to do a low pressure garnet blast to"white metal" and prime, they are going to use "Keyphos" to prime????

Keyphos is a phosphoric acid based, post blast etch sealer which can be painted over. crushed glass, garnet and aluminium are what most blasters are using and I'm with Blacky. Get the nooks and cranny stuff blasted but do the rest yourself with stripper and sanding as it will guarantee that there is NO risk of distortion to panels no matter how clumsy the blaster is. ditto under the guards. lots of horro stories out there rehgarding whole car blasting !

Dave Mac