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i am looking for the braided fuel line which runs from the steel fuel line to the fuel pump
i need the fittings of each end so i can fit a fuel filter
thanks
col

Col , be aware that if you remove that its a good idea to run a cable from the block to the body of the car as that was also a ground wire.

thanks for that blacky didnt know that
all little things you need to know to stop problems further down the track arent written in manauls, they are inside people heads without each others help a lot of people would give up on these old girls

Hi col
Blacky is right the braided fuel hose provides a direct earth to the dizzy on the right hand side of the engine if you cut into this stainles steel braided hose you will invariably fit a plastic filter in the midle of the hose this wil negate the earth return of the origional fuel hose and the thing will start to run like a &*#@
ON origional build FBs the vacume wiper hose may overheat and cause wipers to run slow up hills
and steam to emit from your ears


THE best way to fix your problem is to fit a metal bodyed NON EFI filter into the joint under the drivers side sill at the midle of the car
The fittings are readily avaliable from all hydraulic outlets and if thay cant help
I WILL
Im in the game and have had one on "MILDRED" since Sawtel NO DRAMAS
Will post a pic if neaded
Cheers THE PLATINUM MAN
0267725290

thanks for that, good idea and keeps every thing looking original under the bonnet could you please post pics

[quote="the platinum man"]Hi col
Blacky is right the braided fuel hose provides a direct earth to the dizzy on the right hand side of the engine if you cut into this stainles steel braided hose you will invariably fit a plastic filter in the midle of the hose this wil negate the earth return of the origional fuel hose and the thing will start to run like a &*#@
ON origional build FBs the vacume wiper hose may overheat and cause wipers to run slow up hills
and steam to emit from your ears


The braided fuel line acted as an earth return from the chassis to battery via the engine block and engine to battery earth cable (Enabled earth return for all chassis electrics i.e. lights and accessories). It's other not so well known function is to earth out any static electricity build up in the fuel line. I don't have the braided line but I have an earth line running to chassis from the battery earth. Engine ignition system runs fine.

Mine is the same as Craig, earth from battery to chassis, same effect..

The earthing route provided by the braided fuel hose is an interesting one. Many early Holdens (including mine ) run perfectly well when the braid is replaced by plain old rubber hose. As Craig points out, this is a vital route for anything earthed to chassis... and the vast majority of FB/EK electrics are earthed to chassis. The upshot of this is that there is some moderately serious current that finds its way from the chassis to the engine block by devious means once the braid is gone.

Some potential culprits for "devious earth paths" are:
a) the choke cable
b) the accelerator linkage
b) the engine/gearbox mounts (need to be pretty shagged rubber though)
c) the speedo cable
d) the diff mounting u-bolts
e) the rear brake lines

Most of these are pretty high resistance paths, so low current. The easiest route is often the accelerator linkage or the choke cable - seen plenty of choke cables that ran so many amps the outer plastic sheath melted.

Cheers,
Harv

Too true Harv. Many years ago I had a thermo fan on mine with a thermostat capillary that tucked between the radiator top hose and radiator inlet. I happened to be adjusting the regulator full current setting with all electrics turned on and engine running and I inadvertently touched the capillary tube which burnt the crap out of my hand. The question was why did it get so hot...........insufficient chassis earthing and H4 globes! Lesson learnt big time.

i was told to just cut the braided hose off and replace it with rubber hose and filter i am glad i didnt do that .i think platinum man idea seems to be the go

Also don't forget a bad earth promotes electrolysis that's y it's important to have
a good earth from battery to chassis an engine to chassis

hi coll
"Mildred " isnt at the shop at present so heers something i prepared today
this pic is of my rusty fb ute and shows the fuel line in place around the centre of the car on the Right Hand Side with the brake line to the rear brakes running alongside it the second pic shows the joiner much more gooder like with the dirt buffed off and sitting in place on a replacment inner sill i make
also take note the roll of new 5/16 bundy pipe in the top corner of the pic(you may need it)
remove both fuel lines from car
buff dirt off along entire length of both pipes ensuring the stone guard spring moves freely.
(if the pipe is suspect have a new one made instead of X$^^*around with rusty crap)
refit to car temporary like,and mark with paint the side of the pipes facing the drive shaft.
Cut the flare off the joiner ends of both pipes and fit new metric flare nuts(duno the sise right now 12/1.5 maybee??)
re flare the pipe and using the stone guard spring gently bend the pipes out to alow clearance against the sill for the filter(30mm). This will also shorten the pipes to alow for the length of the filter.
if you marked the drive shaft side of the pipe youl know witch way to bend it and the spring will stop the pipe colapsing.
if it kinks or colapses it was stuffed annyhow.Dont remove the clips from the inner sill as thayl break
and when trial fitting ensure no pipe is under tension/compresion as this will cause the pipe to fracture later on
make a sadle to cary the filter and screw to inner sill.
Yeah i know thers a bit in it, but it will be so nice not to see those ugly plastic filters in the engine bay.
also the origional braided fuel hoses do suffer from artery disease just like me! so check for blockages and also
When was the fuel pump overhauled as leaking /worn valves/diaphragm wont ensure a good suply of life giving fluid to your grey
just like me!

i think the filter was a ryco z373 but cant be shure ive had more than one port since i did this job
I can make up the pipes and suply ready to fit but need the old stone guard springs for origionality otherwise ill fit rubber tube over the pipe to protect it
BUT this MAY CAUSE engine earth problems to the right side
Cheers The Platinum Man
one of newtons laws was EVERY ACTION HAS AN EQUAL AND OPOSIT REACTION
so the more time you spend on your fuel system
means
less time putting fuel in
better economy ??

platinum man
thanks for the pics and discription on how to do the job,
i will set aside a weekend and do the job
thanks again help and guidance is much appreciated
col

fitted fuel filter today
got the fittings i needed from the wreckers (free),
fuel filter $16.00, coopers wz 373,
couple of hours work jobs done and finished in a few hours
thanks again platinium man for pictures and description

Nice to know that it all worked out fine Coll
no rusty fuel lines? best not tell what breed of car the fittings came from as it may cause loyalty issuesill still post better pics as soon as the car comes in for rego
cheers The Platinum Man