fbekholden.com

Hello,

I am working on a datsun 1200 ute and want to replace the tub floor, and I was thinking a flat floor with some nice swage lines running down it. 1.0mm zinc anneal or perhaps thicker?

Before I go cutting, I was wondering if there is anybody in the Sydney area who could do the swage lines for me?

If I cut the sheet out first, will the addition of swage lines change the dimensions of the piece?

Failing this I can tediously repair the rust at the tub edges... but I think an entire replacement would be much neater.

Thanks

Ed

What about cutting the floor out of an old HQ-WB ute or van ? They are galvanised - thats how we fixed my mates '59 ElCamino.

good thinking Blacky,

I had entertained the idea after somebody told me commodores have a screw in ute tub?

having another look at the floor now and Im contemplating getting a bead roller to help me make the repair sections / flanges etc or roll a bead.. have yet to decide completely.

Glad I got a plasma cutter anyway in case I need to do a lot of cutting

Cheers

Ed

I read on another forum where a bloke did his own swage lines by tack welding a solid bar to the floor section laying it flat on the floor and hitting each side of the bar till it made the rite swage line, cut the tach weld and do the next one.
I would leave the size cut till last so you can get it rite.

good thinking Trev,

I may try making a simple hammer form to see if can construct some of the rusty areas needing attention first. if this fails I may turn to other alternatives suggested including yours with the pipe! While cutting the tray out would be easy as well, I'm just going to try fix it first.

ahh decisions, decisions.


Cheers

Ed

Get a local sheetmetal shop to fold you up a new one.

Like a sheet of trimdeck roofsheet,only with different dimensions.

A piece of cake with the right gear,though you wont have the nice radiuses at the front and back of the tray at the ends of the swages.

Go custom with the swages .... It shouldnt be to hard to find a sheet metal shop that does them ...
Swage them with excess because if you swage close to an edge it will wrinkle the flat area , trim the excess of when ready to fit it .
1.0 zinc wont be a problem with anyones machine .

My father does them alot but you would have to venture out of the big smoke.
Dennis 040 5533 477

Hi Wot179, hey Harko

ok thanks for the replies guys.

I have a sheetmetal guy just down the road, but last time I mentioned swages he said "nobody did that anymore" I guess folding in the pressings sounds easier.

will call him up tomorrow, I have a floor section where I can show him what I need.

Fatboy suggested I use faced up trailer guards to make up the wheel tubs.

All sounding easy now.

thanks again.

Cheers

Ed

I made a hammerform for my tubs.Then you can make them any shape you like.

I used cold rolled bright mild steel to tap them up cos it moves easier than zinc anneal,and tigs up nicer.(still hard work cos I used 1.6)

And one of those big orange plastic deadblow hammers to knock it up.








Hope these might help.

Nice work WOT

thats shmick

Also Ed ,another technique can be to make from ply a female and male dye and press in any shapes. for futre reference.

Thanks,gents.
Just gotta fit them now instead of flogging about the place spraying the back of the cab with gravel and dirt....Theyve only been finished for 18 months....you cant rush these things...

Beautiful work WOT.

I might give that a go.

cold rolled steel.. got it.

thanks for sharing that.

thanks too for the useful tip on pressing Harko, although I dont think I have access to that kind of equipment.
Cheers

ed

is hot rolled sheet suitable for body work?

cold rolled is easier to work , to bend and form into shapes , you can use it if there is not much forming needed .