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Yesterday I had a blue motor electric dizzy put on the EK. It isnt running the full 12v or whatever it is but it has the new coil etc etc.

Now, new brake pads were also put onto the front (torana discs on kingpin) and somehow.... when I break really hard my car will stall.

The carby float, fuel pump etc etc were all checked so its kinda posetive that it isnt the fuel. It wont stall when I pull up slowly, its only really a jerking movement forward (doesnt stall in reverse).

When you stamp on the brakes at no forward motions nothing happens. Its just when ur going forward...

Paul, A forum member (sorry I forgot screen name) did it all for me and even with all his mechanical knowledge he couldnt figure it out.... seems odd that heavy braking would stall the engine...

Paul pretty much tried everything so I was just taking a long shot and wondering if anybody had ever had this happen before? and of course wondering how they fixed it

Cheers
Jay

(also thanks heaps to Paul for spending the whole bloody day trying to get me mobile)

has it got a brake booster could be vacume??

might be the combined loss of power through the brake lights , and a surge in the carby .
Give it 12v and it will work well.
Those dizzys have a tendency to blow modules due to the heat sinc grease wearing out .

Fuel surge springs to mind, does seem to happen in some cars/carbys.

Also could be a vacuum problem maybe?

Sort of re-call a similar problem in a car I worked on years ago, but can't remember exactly how we fixed it but remember it was a booster/vacuum line related problem of sorts.

If you are running a booster disconnect it and plug then engine side vaccuum connection and see if it stil does it.

Check condition of booster line also ( if you are running a booster )

In the meantime, don't brake hard and it won't happen

I am running with a booster on it... Paul mentioned it was to do with motion cos when I stomp on the brakes when it isnt moving nothing really happens.
However when its moving forward then yeh....

How do I wire it to get the full 12v? Apparently its pretty simple. I dnt feel like paying $100 to get my electrician to do it.

ok i just took it around the block... gotta say a electric dizzy is pretty dam cool.

Got on the throttle and it was fine... heavy braking to a stop... fine... got on the pedal again and it stalled... Then after that it ran fine under heavy braking etc...

Maybe it was cold?

On friday going down the fwy it overheated and smoke poured from the bonnet (hadnt happened before) I believe that was coming out of the air cleaner. Started it again and managed to get rid of the temp light after a while and made it home...

This is the first time iv driven it since friday.

well took it to get some fuel, fine on the way there... On the way back i was accelerating off from traffic lights and it stalled. Made a burning smell but started straight away afterwards.

Hi J,
I was going to say Incorrect Ignition(Distributor) Timing causing the engine to overheat etc. but I'm confused about the timing of the events.
When it overheated on the freeway was this before or after the new dizzy was fitted ?
Cheers, Baz.

A silly question but I gather that you have topped up the radiator since it overheated ?

over heated after the dizzy was fitted, but it was pretty hot and the traffic was also not to great.

Seems to run perfectly so i dont think its the timing

J wrote:
How do I wire it to get the full 12v? Apparently its pretty simple. I dnt feel like paying $100 to get my electrician to do it.

How do you know you dont have 12V

I am running high energy dizzys in both of mine and they have 12V at the coil with the engine running with no wiring mods on original harnesses

Go and buy yourself a multimeter a cheap one will do (ONLY USE A CHEAP MULTIMETER ON AUTOMOTIVE STUFF) test for 12V DC to the coil with the engine running if you only get 9V then you need to look at changing it

$100 is cheap for a pro to do this fix if you need it

Booster was causing mine to stall.
Not as bad when stationary but you could notice the engine change.
Vacuum issue, replaced the booster, problem gone.

Could also be a wire or burnt wire, shorting out occasionally when car moves in a direction the causes the wire to touch.
Heavy movement forward or backward, but not always ??

I had this with a HQ years ago. Car stalled when I went around a left hand corner to hard.

Dissy could also be an issue.