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I think anyone who has thought to fit a later gearbox in an early Holden has experienced similar frustration. In the early days before the M20s were readily available a lot of cars got fitted with Datsun and Toyota boxes, which were more compact, as well as being stronger and more refined.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yes do everything 3 times, that's the way of the modifier !!!!

Funny when the engineer was inspecting my car, that was on a hoist at the time he started to laugh when looking at the gearbox, I asked what's wrong ?
His reply, you are probably the only bloke that has kept the floor brace in around the gear box !!!

Phew !!! My reply was, yes I like a challenge !!!!! It sounds like your engineer is reasonable there Brett, it is an area that needs to retain the strength primarily for a side impact so the floor resists folding up in the middle. In saying that though there will be a member holding the gearbox and tying it together, so who knows ????? I made a brace because I have been pinged for it before when I originally did the red conversion many many moons ago.

Keep cracking it will be done before you know it !

Greg

Thanks Greg. There are 2 braces as part of the CRS chassis kit. One that has the rear gearbox mount and one about halfway to stop the driveshaft dropping so he's probably looking at that. When its sorted I'll put one under box I think 'cause that gives me something to hang the handbrake gizmos off?
We had a good laugh about it all

Brett027 wrote: Mon May 30, 2022 3:27 pm
Discussed with Engineer and he recommended to go with 5mm x50mm flat shaped to fit, welded to crossmember ends and also tacked to floor. We also discussed what to do if floor shifter ( which has to be moved to suit bench seat as well) gets obstructed by this bar. This time I will stick the gear box in first.....

Thats what I used , made a cardboard template that ended up looking like a boomerang and cut it out of some 5mm sheet at a mates boily shop , bent it around an oxy bottle and it went in like a bought one

Do you remember roughly what size piece you started with Blacky?

I fit 50x3mm rails either side of box. Angle up to floor seam under seat like Hydramatic. Forward to no 1 member. Then bolt HKTG crossmember up to underside of rails. Will do this on the ute.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Brett027 wrote: Mon May 30, 2022 6:44 pm Do you remember roughly what size piece you started with Blacky?

I just made the template and cut it out of a sheet at my mates shop , didn't really notice but would have a guess at around 800 x 600 ?

Deliberations are underway to find the perfect spot.
Thanks to 'Orange Betty' Dave for the use of a bare block to work it all out.
The M20 gearbox is a difficult fix, with the gear lever either coming up in the bench seat or if moved forward, in the middle of the crossmember. Clay and Rosco are being very helpful with measurements and pictures- many thanks gents.

Finally bit the bullet and got my shed roof sorted. Condensation drips on frosty days was getting beyond a joke. Might help with temps a bit too.

Picked up a nice shiny re-cored radiator for the ute this arvo, with HR sides fitted for an easier install. Got everything I need now to commit to an engine mount position.

Chewed the fat (literally as well) and kicked the wheels with Tinleg (Sam) also today. A good day all round.

Question for red motor enthusiasts.
I know the engine mounts rubbers are installed one side forward of the engine braket and one side behind. When you are installing new mounts on the crossmember, is there any reason not to mount them without taking into account the front/ rear issue and have the rubbers on both sides at the front or alternatively both at the rear?

My opinion, it’s not that hard to discern how you set it up so mounts fall symmetrically on the crossmember. Weld them buggers on there good, and symmetrical. When you set up the gearbox mount you can play with the bits if necessary but shouldn’t have to.

Looking at a red in club members new van this afternoon at Nuriootpa and head was about 1mm clear of unmodified firewall seam, further back than mine. Doesn’t touch or hit at all owner says. Big fat alloy radiator in front and about the same clearance as what I have, and I’m happy with it. Important that the rear gearbox mount eliminates shear stress so the mill doesn’t lurch forward and bury the fan in the nice radiator.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

What product did you use on the shed roof and do you have an approximate price per metre??


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It was 80m2 Blacky. Brand was 'Performins' R 1.3, and it worked out $10/m2. 15m2 in a roll. 12 months ago it would have been half that price.
There was also a roll of roof wire which I think was about $140.

It is nice to go in there now with no drips. Should be a bit better in hot times too.

Insulation looks good Brett,
Did you remove roof sheets, roll out wire, insulation then reinstall roof sheets? Looks like insulation sits neatly on top of purlins.

I imagine it would be a pain to retrofit insulation after roof is on.

Stephen

Yep, sheets off ( one side at a time) wire strung, insulation rolled out then sheets back on and repeat. Took about 10 hours with 2 workers.