fbekholden.com

If it’s etch primer then it’s really only a tie coat between bare metal and primer/ hi build and only needs a mist coat. If you used a hi build or primer surfacer with an in built etch then a few coats is ok and you should be able to block it out. If it’s an etch primer then 3 coats might be too much buildup and you could end up with so much paint with primer/ hi build then colour that it separates later from metal.
I think whatever you painted should dry ok because 2 pac relies on a chemical reaction to set.


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Yes it is a two pack etch prime. Pretty common I believe. I’ve given it three light coats. The plan is to cover any bare metal, then I’ll think about high build. Spray putty is what was used on my sedan around 1990. Same thing?


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Etch primer is not the same as a primer or a hibuild and should only be sprayed as a single mainly see through coat. Your primer or hibuild is the stuff that you sand down to fill slight imperfections and provide a flat surface before colour. If your total buildup is too thick (including colour)you risk delamination particularly where a panel changes direction like where the doors have the rounded shape just below window glass. Phew ! That didn’t come out so clear did it?
Basically too much paint will cause you problems later especially on seams and etch primer is normally only a single light coat.



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Sorry my bad,if it’s etch primer then it should be dual purpose and ok to sand flat then shoot colour over the top.
Just be aware that you still don’t want too much buildup!


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Hi Clay,

I haven't used etch primer at all. I have used epoxy primer which sticks to the bare metal (after deoxidine). Before the epoxy has dried chemically I scuff with a pad and do all the filling if its needed. The epoxy has a recoat window drying time usually about 8 hours, if it goes beyond this you have to sand it to give the next coat a grip surface, mechanical attachment.
Sand back then epoxy again then once its flashed off (20 minutes or so) I use high build primer, 3 coats, they call this wet on wet. I let that dry for a week or so then sand again, colour then flash off then clear. I have 3 different guns, primer, colour and clear, they have different nozzle sizes etc.

You will always get some orange peel if you lay it on to thick or slow or to fast and the gun to far away and pressures are not right.

It took me a while to sort the pressures but I just looked at the paint sheet recommendations and pretty much follow that for tip size and also gun pressure. I also watched hundreds of hours of you tube guides.

If you are painting over old stuff it needs to be sealed otherwise it will move blister or crack. All my painting has been done on bare metal with no old paint anywhere.

No easy feat this painting but you will get used to it.

Regards Greg

PS well done on the safety !!!!!

Cheers fellas. I did read there is a maximum recoat time. Like I said plan is to get it all sealed and then sand and hi-build



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I was eager to get the car back rolling today, but thought I would quickly throw a new fuel line on first. Took me all day and I’d have to say I am about 80% happy with my work. Some of my bends are a little untidy is all.
I cloned my old front pipe, having to start again when I wasn’t happy with my first attempt. In hindsight I might have re-routed it above the gearbox mount. I
For the rear I basically bent it up insitu after working out where the original went. Got tricky mating it up to the tank.
I had to mock the tank in, which is the one from the van.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

The van


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Coming down
Next job, tidy this up.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Good stuff clay !

Long haul these restos, I am starting to hate mine cause there's just no time. I may have to quite my job, speaking of which your doing a great one there and the van will like your skills !!

Greg

Cheers Greg
Just a quick patch up job compared to yours mate


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Well done on the rear tub there Clay! I just checked out the pictures from Page 1 or comparison, huge effort.

Tell me - what spare wheel door is that? Looks different to FC-E or FB-EK...

Hi Joe
When I got the car it had a piece of sheet screwed over the spare wheel hole. I have a few doors in poor condition, all are FE EK type, original steel with varying amounts of rust and bog.
Cheers
Clay


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Errol62 wrote: Tue Aug 27, 2019 2:22 pm Hi Joe
When I got the car it had a piece of sheet screwed over the spare wheel hole. I have a few doors in poor condition, all are FE EK type, original steel with varying amounts of rust and bog.
Cheers
Clay

yep I hear ya, mine's made of a precarious composite of fibreglass, bog, ferrous oxide, rust convertor and steel

Happy farters day every bloody.
Managed to sneak out go the shed and make a start on the right side appendix thingy.


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