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FireKraka wrote: Tue Aug 18, 2020 9:43 am The one that I have fitted was an eBay unit $168 came with the Hobbs switch and small tank, it says it is a UP28 Origin whatever that means and used in &*#@ Ranger Hyundai Tuscan and some Mazda Models.

Neil

sounds like a Hella unit ??? I have one on my 46 Chev, its out of a Jeep.

Finally got Frank booked in for Monday to have Dyno completed

Neil

Yippee. Good luck Neil.

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Cheers Clay

FireKraka wrote:Finally got Frank booked in for Monday to have Dyno completed

Neil

Sweet - that will have it purring on all cylinders right in time for cruising season


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Guys I had a good but frustrating dyno afternoon I'm afraid. The good part was that the engineer was happy and will sign off on the dyno the frustrating part was that Frank didn't make the gee gees that was expected, the tuner was not happy with the way it was sounding after the first couple of pulls and when he put the heat gun over the exhaust manifolds the exhaust scatter was disturbing, #1 & #2 cylinders were over 400 deg C, cylinders 3, 5 & 4 were between 200 & 300 deg and #6 was just under 200 deg so he didn't want to keep going and apparently my oxygen sensor needs replacing
So I'm going to pull and check the plugs, check the leads, do a compression test, because I didn't get the roller rockers that had been on the engine and because of the issue I had with #1 previously I may be back to shimming rocker posts to make sure all valves are shutting fully if compression is all over the place.
Funnily when I drive Frank the engine feels very strong
Oh the joy of building cars
Neil

Strong motor sounds good to me. Do the spark as you say but money on the valves again. Get it warm and you can do the comp when plugs come out. It’s a bummer you’re having these issues mate.

Anyway it’s on the road. You can register it.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Good news that it has passed engineering. Get some plates on it, putter around town, and work through the gremlins

Not sure how VR/VS/VP EFI works, but assume that the signal to each cylinder from the 'puter is the same (i.e. its not a control issue, its a hardware issue). Some of the Haltecs can tune individual cylinders, but they need a lot more instrumentation (e.g. temperature sensor in each exhaust header) to do it.

The good bit is that an IR heat gun is cheap, so you can fiddle-and-check to your hearts content without having to go back to the dyno guy. I've got one of these ones, and it's been pretty reliable. It only does 380C, but is close enough for the stuff I do:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Non-Contact ... ctupt=true

Cheers,
Harv

FireKraka wrote: Sat Aug 29, 2020 10:22 am Guys I had a good but frustrating dyno afternoon I'm afraid.
IMG_0685.JPG
The good part was that the engineer was happy and will sign off on the dyno the frustrating part was that Frank didn't make the gee gees that was expected, the tuner was not happy with the way it was sounding after the first couple of pulls and when he put the heat gun over the exhaust manifolds the exhaust scatter was disturbing, #1 & #2 cylinders were over 400 deg C, cylinders 3, 5 & 4 were between 200 & 300 deg and #6 was just under 200 deg so he didn't want to keep going and apparently my oxygen sensor needs replacing
So I'm going to pull and check the plugs, check the leads, do a compression test, because I didn't get the roller rockers that had been on the engine and because of the issue I had with #1 previously I may be back to shimming rocker posts to make sure all valves are shutting fully if compression is all over the place.
Funnily when I drive Frank the engine feels very strong
Oh the joy of building cars
Neil

It's looks fantsticmate, well done. Like the commodore guard flutes as well. Sure does look a million dollars and I am.sure you will get the bugs ironed out in the engine.

Cheers, Taz

Thanks for the comments guys.
I pulled the plugs yesterday found 4 of the 6 wet going to check leads and compression today
Neil

Ok so checked the leads and the coils and all came up good.
Did the compression and all were 145-150 psi except #5 it was only 100 psi, doing the fault finding I had done when I had the problem with #1 I found that it was the inlet valve on this cylinder that was causing the issue so I shimmed it until it came up to 150 psi.

Changed the oxygen sensor because Al the dyno guy said it wasn't working, fitted the new plugs, fired it up and it purred like a kitten.

I put the heat gun over the exhaust manifolds and found that I had pretty even spread of temperatures all around the mid 300 deg, admittedly I was only at idle but did give the pedal a couple of squirts to get some heat in.

Now for my assumptions; before I took Frank to the first guys shop I had been having trouble starting, advise from the guy was change the plugs because they are likely cooked (he sees this a lot in LS's he tells me) changed plugs and it fired straight up.

I ran Frank a number of times and he then went for the first dyno tune with Al, although they got a tune in it was with the issue on #1 so not the greatest, I ran him on the road a few times after that and in the shed, apparently they had taken a fair bit of timing out at the first tune.

When they were trying to sort the engine out at the first tune they had put 2 brand new plugs in and left 4 of my old ones, when I solved the problem with #1 I put those to new plugs into cyl 1 & 2.

So now to the assumption after that ramble at the second dyno Al thought there was a compression issue thus the temperature scatter, it would appear that the 4 old plugs were instead cooked hence being wet and fouled when I pulled them (bad combustion) the new plugs are NGK BPR6EFS which is what the engine came with and have a gap of only 0.8 mm (better burn it seems).

I can't answer why the need to shim those 2 rockers but it has been discussed before, so now I will have to keep an eye on the plugs and if the engine seems to start to play up again I will go to the plugs first I think.

So I'm now going to run it on the road and check the brakes, if ok get the engineer to sign off on the brake test and then hopefully in a month or so rego
Apology if I have rambled above.
Neil

Good trouble shooting Neil. Looks like I done my money getting on the valves as it only placed. Still more frigging with engineer oh well.

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Brake test booked with engineer for next Tuesday
Neil

Nearly there

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Good luck