FB Standard Wagon

[gledge]

Hey I haven’t read all this thread but have you tried changing the apparent longest rod for the shortest one ... just to eliminate wrongly ground crankshaft?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FbSTDwagon]

Hey I haven’t read all this thread but have you tried changing the apparent longest rod for the shortest one ... just to eliminate wrongly ground crankshaft?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shit that’s a great suggestion, I did have the crankshaft reground…

[Harv]

HSD advise the max height above deck they do is .015” with a .045” head gasket. Which leaves .030” compression squish.

I am using on of Harvs late EJ style head gaskets which measures .060” thick, I’ll guesstimate no more than 10% gasket squish which will leave the gasket at .054” compressed thickness.

So even if the piston were .020” above deck there will be heaps of clearance, but when I get this issue sorted the pistons will all close to zero deck.

Which then leaves the next issue… with a zero deck why would I use a .060” head gasket?
All I’d be do is robbing my self of some compression, so after I get everything measured I may get a new gasket made up at .040” thick… but I’ll wait and see my findings first.

Rough guide: quench should be 38-43 thou. Run it down as low as 32 thou if you are not flogging the motor routinely. For ally rods (which grow more), run 60-65 thou.

Cheers,
Harv

[FbSTDwagon]

HSD advise the max height above deck they do is .015” with a .045” head gasket. Which leaves .030” compression squish.

I am using on of Harvs late EJ style head gaskets which measures .060” thick, I’ll guesstimate no more than 10% gasket squish which will leave the gasket at .054” compressed thickness.

So even if the piston were .020” above deck there will be heaps of clearance, but when I get this issue sorted the pistons will all close to zero deck.

Which then leaves the next issue… with a zero deck why would I use a .060” head gasket?
All I’d be do is robbing my self of some compression, so after I get everything measured I may get a new gasket made up at .040” thick… but I’ll wait and see my findings first.

Rough guide: quench should be 38-43 thou. Run it down as low as 32 thou if you are not flogging the motor routinely. For ally rods (which grow more), run 60-65 thou.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv. I’ll just use the gasket I have got and see how it goes.
Although the brain is ticking in getting some .040 gaskets made…

[FbSTDwagon]

Deck bridge is made, now to get some real measurements on what’s happening with the piston heights

[Harv]

Although the brain is ticking in getting some .040 gaskets made…

Maybe coppery ones, from Ridgecrest:
https://coppergasket.com.au/

Cheers,
Harv

[FbSTDwagon]

Although the brain is ticking in getting some .040 gaskets made…

Maybe coppery ones, from Ridgecrest:
https://coppergasket.com.au/

Cheers,
Harv

I’ll cal them and ask, but they would need to be the same style as what I got from you Harv, late EJ with less coolant flow holes.

[FbSTDwagon]

So I have measured the piston protrusion in relation to deck height…

#1 -001” (below deck)
#2 +001”
#3 +.004”
#4 +.015” *** this is the concerning cylinder
#5 +005
#6 +.002

I spoke with Southcotts and they said the crank will be fine, grinding a crank .010 won’t throw the stroke out on 1 cylinder.

In regards to the rods, it’s highly likely this rods was like this from factory as they were a matching set.

He told me to CC the head and if there is a combustion chamber larger than the rest I should put the long rod in that cylinder to bring the compression in that cylinder up.

He also said with a .060 head gasket I have nothing to worry about.

So I’ll do some further investigations and make a decision on what I’ll do next.

Hope to keep it all a simple as possible, not forgotting is is just a dirty old grey motor at the end of the day

[EK283]

So I have read this in detail and to be honest it is all a pain in the neck to get right especially when you have to rely on others to do work.
I would do the following.
Measure all piston gudgeons to top to make sure they are equal.
Measure all conrods big end to small end.
With your crank in measure each journal at top dead centre with your deck gauge.
You will have all the information then and how to overcome it.
Crank, because it has been machined undersize it is possible that it’s offset ground. That’s a problem.
Conrods, pick the ones that are equal then get some more and have the closed and honed to match the others.
Pistons, I find it hard to believe they could be different but you never know ! Machining the tops is one way around it but they will have to be rebalanced of course.

Ultimately if it was slapped together with all different measurements it would still go fine and you probably wouldn’t notice the difference !

Welcome Drew to the world of blueprinting !!!

Regards Greg

[Errol62]

Good advice on matching the higher crown to larger CC, but as Greg says good to know where the problem is. Big end journals ground -0.01" I would think it possible to be the issue but money on the rods.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[FbSTDwagon]

So I have read this in detail and to be honest it is all a pain in the neck to get right especially when you have to rely on others to do work.
I would do the following.
Measure all piston gudgeons to top to make sure they are equal.
Measure all conrods big end to small end.
With your crank in measure each journal at top dead centre with your deck gauge.
You will have all the information then and how to overcome it.
Crank, because it has been machined undersize it is possible that it’s offset ground. That’s a problem.
Conrods, pick the ones that are equal then get some more and have the closed and honed to match the others.
Pistons, I find it hard to believe they could be different but you never know ! Machining the tops is one way around it but they will have to be rebalanced of course.

Ultimately if it was slapped together with all different measurements it would still go fine and you probably wouldn’t notice the difference !

Welcome Drew to the world of blueprinting !!!

Regards Greg

Thanks Greg for the detailed advice.
However I regards to the crank being offset on the 1 journal I don’t think that is the case.
#3 and # 4 would have been ground on the same set up so if that theory was correct I’d expect #3 to have the same offset.

It’s definitely in the rod, which I haven’t measured as yet.

I think I’ll fly cut the piston and balance them at home on my kitchen scales

[FbSTDwagon]

Good advice on matching the higher crown to larger CC, but as Greg says good to know where the problem is. Big end journals ground -0.01" I would think it possible to be the issue but money on the rods.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Yeah definitely a rod if day at this point.

I’m not going to chase another rod and get it matched, that’s a lot harder than matching the 1 piston

[FbSTDwagon]

Do I… Do I… Do I???
Bloody tempted but how far do I bloody go with this motor?
Oh yeah I forgot to mention the price…
$800…

[gledge]

Do it mate.. as far as I can see odd length rods and different ring to top of bore distances are never gunna give great results..if ya make the chambers different volumes may work ok but if ya put that head on another bottom end ya just gunna create more dramas


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Errol62]

Go on, what’s another $800 now, heh, heh…..

Got a nice short motor here no one wants if you want more to choose from. It is a B series from memory. Harv already has the lifters.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie