fbekholden.com

All in and very happy with the increased performance

Just had a motor rebuilt and went to fit the electronic dizy and doesn't seem to be working anymore .
Does anyone know how I can test it to see if it's died
Cheers
Paul

Check and make sure you have 12V at the coil + which should be connected to the red wire that goes to the ignition module (I'm assuming its a Pertronix set up). You should have good voltage there when cranking (may drop to around 9-10 volts on cranking depending on battery condition). If that's ok then check dwell at the negative terminal of the coil (black wire from module is connected there). If you have any external wires connected to either a tacho feed or condenser remove them (condenser shouldn't be used on Pertronix set up). With the engine cranking check the % dwell reading. It should be close to the standard spec or slightly higher. If there is no dwell switching happening I would say the module is stuffed. Also check that the magnet ring is fitted correctly and check rotor button carbon brush in dissy cap.

Well pulled the electronic out and put a very old rusted set of points I had out of another dizzy and fired straight away so I'd say it's fried .
Just thought that there was away to check voltage while it's out of the car before I buy another one .
Cheers
Paul

Great read guys and electronic ignition seems to be the go!

Considering the age of this thread, does anyone have any updates or recommendations considering it is now 2020?

Have these units lasted the years or not?

I have had a pertronix unit in my ute since 2010 , hasnt missed a beat

Was going to start a new thread but this seems to cover most of what I'm looking for.

We are currently on the vinegar stroke of getting "Frankie" over the pits but we are having issues trying to start!! It's turning over nicely but not firing, we have the Pertronix Ingitor 1 unit fitted with a Flamethrower coil, EI is fitted inside a fully reconditioned original Bosch dizzy.

We have done alot of the checks already mentioned on here but we have noticed that the plug gap or pick up on the EI unit itself is about 1.5mm, is this an issue? The coil is underdone @ 3.5 ohm, we replaced with 5 ohm which made a huge difference to spark quality but still wouldn't fire.

Any suggestions?

check the bit that goes over the shaft of the dizzy is all the way down mate , mine had to be almost belted on with a hammer - it was TIGHT

Pertronix ignition module in an original Bosch distributor? Without having read back through the thread -

Make certain that the thrust washer between the drive gear and the distributor body is still present. If it's not, the magnet sleeve and transducer will be misaligned.

Check that the braided earth lead from the breaker plate to the vacuum advance is in good condition. If it's broken, desoldering braid makes a good replacement.

The magnet sleeve fouls on the vacuum advance pull rod bracket: you need to grind some material off the bracket to clear the magnet sleeve.

The magnet sleeve can be difficult to install on the cam. Grease the inside of the sleeve, and be prepared to de-burr the inside of the sleeve.

Setting the static ignition timing can be difficult. You could use a timing light when cranking the engine over. I found that if I made the rotor point to the notch in the distributor body when the engine's "on the ball" for no. 1, the engine would start, and then I set the timing by ear after that.

Rob

Thanks heaps for the feedback guys, will check over all those things mention and hopefully have some success.

Found this slip ring that sits over the old hex shaft, looks like its been dropped or smashed at some stage then someone has attempted to remould and glue it back together (dodgey as) Think this could be the culprit, going to replace it and fit points to try get it running.

That's the magnet sleeve. Once it's broken, it's not much good for anything.