These pin holes and cracks around the corner of the tank where the sender wire runs are easy to access with the car tipped over like this.
Used the copper bar behind and mig down low. Short bursts parallel to surface and away from the hole, building up metal and working back to fill hole.
Should come up okay with a grind and Metal Fix.
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Thanks for the tip yeah makes sense. I just welded past the crack a bit. Also need to touch up the other side.
I’m pretty happy with how the repairs are going now. Goal is to weld tidier. My main problem is I can’t see what I’m doing so well. There is a fair bit of farmer welding (no mask shut eyes squeeze) and resultant “sunburn”.
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You’re right Greg. I appreciate the tips. I need to clean screens and yes I hav a pair of work glasses for 30 to 50 cm focus but still I tend to find I get a better result with fine stuff using the agricultural technique.
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EK van on rotisserie
After a bit of a distraction last week chasing over to Port Lincoln to pick up the low mileage 179 from my mate, back in to it today. Finally tackled the inner sill and chassis tie. I will finish the job when I flip the car over on its other side.
Also had a look at the 179. It’s an early block number M54091 from memory. I think this means it would have had a Hydramatic behind it. It has been sitting on the floor of mates shed for 30 years with no plugs or manifolds. Consequently there is a light rusting in bores one and six. Which were near bdc. It may get by with a serious clean or at worst a hone and rings. The timing gear was stripped hence the removal and numbers 1 and 3 inlet valves were open. No doubt a valve grind will also be in order. Anyway no hurry on that front.
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Quickest way to tell if the 179 had a Hydro is to look in the back of the crankshaft. No spigot bush means auto as original fitment.
You might be surprised about the internal condition of the motor. If it turns over by hand it won't be that bad. Of course, stripped timing gear will mean dropping the sump to get the timing cover off, and oil pump will have to come off to get the camshaft out. Fortunately red motor timing gear sets are cheap and easy to get. Or if you don't mind a highest-quality second-hand fibre timing gear, I can put one in a Postpak bag.
Thanks Rob
I’ll go with an alloy gear. Cheap insurance. Good point on the spigot bearing. I read somewhere the early EHs used the EJ manual box which wasn’t up to the 179. Although the early S4s were manual.
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Good progress on the under body repairs today. Took Greg’s advice an put a rag over my helmet which made a big difference to visibility, blocking out the overhead fluros. Progress equals mess.
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Digging around on the other side and wouldn’t you know I found similar rust in passenger side inner wheel arch. So I’m half wishing I decided to mini tub. It’s not nearly as bad as the driver side. I’ll just repair it for now and keep moving on.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Nice work mate keep at it and I'm going to try the rag over the helment thing as well; I have an auto darkening helmet but still have some issues seeing even with glasses on under it so it may be the light coming in from behind.
Good call.
Neil
Member of WA FB/EK Car Club
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)